Nice looking install. The 04 GTO was the only year of LS1/ DBC. 05-06 went LS2 / DBW. So I have the DBC setup. I actually have more experience with the 04 GM full size utility DBC ECM as we (my son and I) have a HP tuner license for that application. The 04 GTO ECM has a lot of flexibility in the a/c control area. The same ECM is also found in the 04 full size V8 vans and S-Blazer. It is also one of the few blue/ green ECMs that can support either DBC or DBW. I still intend to try the Nissan cruise when I get to that point as my other 240 has all the hardware in it. My son ended up using a 04 GTO ECM in his 91 Suburban 5.3 swap to integrate the a/c control through the ECM the way he wanted it. Once again good clean looking engine compartment.
In reply to RACEC4R :
In addition to the above I wanted to ask you what oil pan you used. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!
I also use HP tuner license and I am beyond satisfied with the abilities of that program.
I used Moroso Part# 27498. It does not look like they offer it anymore though. Maybe you could call and ask though?
I got mine from Todd @ Fueled Racing.
It is shallow front sump road race pan with AN fittings at filter input/output. It has the diamond geometry to fit 240sx front subframe.
This Canton is very similar:
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/canton-racing-front-sump-ls1-oil-pan-nissan-240sx-89-98-w-ls1-swap.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAkNiMBhCxARIsAIDDKNXGJ3-itsS77XfpZDD4CCZvG2k9-zRqX0MfTRZz9vzzytLXm-zcHWwaAjjUEALw_wcB
However, my depth is even shallower and my subframe is actually lower than my oilpan.
I also run remote big block chevy filter, Earls oil thermostat, fully shrouded 13 row mocal oil cooler with 3" NACA duct, and 3 quart Accusump.
So what all that means is my pan may not suit your needs or use case.
Thanks for the reply. I bought the Canton about a year ago. Been pondering the oil cooler and Accusump part of the system had my self fairly convinced of the need for the Accusump was not sure about the need for an oil cooler. Did you build yours with the oil cooler from the start or did you find out you needed it later. Also with the depth of the Canton sump I am strongly considering an aluminum skid plate for protection. You thoughts are appreciated.
In reply to madmrak351 :
Yes to Accusump, seeing all the LS's out there with oiling issues made it a no brainer for me. I also updated oil pump to latest OEM LS6 oil pump, and put 2 lightly shimmed washers in with the spring to ever so slightly increase the oil pressure over entire range due to all the new lines and cooler routing. I did not increase or do any high volume oil pump nonsense as I feel if you need that, then you need a dry sump and be done with band-aiding it.
There is nothing more satisfying than seeing 20-30 psi of oil pressure with key/ignition on. My motor spins and starts on first revolution with the oil pressure from Accusump. Its lovely knowing the mains and rods are as close to friction free as they can get on startup. Oil changes suck though as I'm now a ~10qt oil system. My wallet hates me when I have to change the oil. I use factory recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic. Nothing fancy.
I did add the cooler since the beginning because I knew I'd be tracking it. I think hottest oil temp I've ever seen during a 20 minute session at 90 degree ambient was maybe 230-240 deg F at Gridlife Midwest @Gingerman Raceway. I calculated heat generation and heat shed of the cooler and my overheat condition would take something crazy like 47 minutes full tilt before heat capacity of oil and cooler were overcome with heat generation of LS engine. 13 row cooler is small but totally fine, but make sure its ducted. Air takes path of least resistance, so it will just flow around the cooler if you don't force it to go through. Not a must, but a decent design consideration if you are tracking it hard.
I also drive mine to/from the track, so robustness was important in oil/coolant decisions.
To sum up, yes to Accusump, maybe to cooler depending on your use case.
Good information! Living in southeast GA I think I might want to run a cooler as it may see an occasional track day.
some pictures of the Nissfaux brace fabrication.
Tacked everything with the radius arm mounts bolted to the chassis. Used 1" .083 wall cromoly tube. 24" of the tube was just right. Boxed the bottom all the way to the front instead of just to the mid way point as the Nissan version is. Dimple died the 1/2" holes in the bottom mainly for looks.
Built second brace for the other car while I was at it.
Reinforcements added to front crossmember that holds steering rack, LCAs and motor mounts.
Worst rust I have found on the car thus far, battery box area. No surprise there. Have been most every where on the car excepting the carpet has not been removed yet. The floors do look very good from underneath. Beginning of repair pictures coming next.
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