With the 2.93's - I believe you are being called to the Ohio Mile next year for some top speed runs
With the 2.93's - I believe you are being called to the Ohio Mile next year for some top speed runs
Forget the 2.93s. Found a set of 3.42s this weekend. Now I have 2.56s, 2.93s, AND an open Series II carrier to sell for extra budget!!
So probably like 14 cents at the scrapyard 
In other news, my winter project stockpile continues to grow.
$40 on gears
$60 on fatter wheels
...and $140 on this little guy. New in box.
A friend had a 79 camaro that was optioned weird as hell with the f41 suspension, 350 and 2.41 rear gears. Was the first and last car i rode in that could bury a 150 speedometer after the motor rebuild. That wagon will benefit alot from a steeper gear. Those 3.42s should be pretty close.
Make it go!
dropstep wrote: A friend had a 79 camaro that was optioned weird as hell with the f41 suspension, 350 and 2.41 rear gears. Was the first and last car i rode in that could bury a 150 speedometer after the motor rebuild. That wagon will benefit alot from a steeper gear. Those 3.42s should be pretty close.
My uncle had a firebird around that year with a similar set up. The story is his speedo went to 120 and he could wrap it through the unlabeled "nowhere zone" at the bottom of the dial and back around to 30mph. At some point his drunk ex wife wrapped it around a bridge pylon while in the nowhere zone. She crawled out the back window to get out.
carry on!
Pretty cool! Can you find all the upgrade parts for these fairly easy? The 9C1 brake and suspension packages? I'm considering picking up won of these to replace my 04 Saturn Ion.
Plus the 5,000 lb towing capacity would be pretty cool for hauling around my 71 Demon to different track events
In the past month, I haven't done much in the world of cars. I just bought a garage that came with a house so I've been making that habitable. Look out for a home renovation build thread approximately 1/4 as good as the Grosh one.
I did replace a brake line, which only decided to present itself while flushing/bleeding the brakes. So there's that. It's the really gross wet rusty one that looks like the frame rail but smaller.
Here's her new home.
It's quite roomy but dark.
Fun fact: every part I've accumulated for this project fits neatly in the back of this project.
In reply to maschinenbau:
That perspective makes the elky look tiny! What are the specs on the garage?
It's 30'x40'. HUGE improvement over the last house, which had a 2-car shared with the roommate, with my half further divided by SWMBO's pottery studio.
So where is her studio now? My wife has half of our 20x40 building for her pottery studio. 
I want to tear ours down and rebuild it as a 2 story and put her on the 2nd floor. I don't have room to go 30' wide, though. Yours looks nice and roomy.
I like the cam, low duration and low LSA but if you've got the iron heads you should have the press in studs, gonna have to change those with that much lift.
You can yank them and tap the holes for screw in studs on the work bench though, just make sure your tapping them straight.
Probably gonna need a stall and tune. I think people were using the 4 cyl s10 converters, flashed at like 2100 rpms or something like that, id google it though its been years since I saw it. Also double check your oil pump drive gear, when I sold my LT1 people were starting to kill the stock gear with aftermarket cams, some got bronze ones, some bought special ever wear ones, some ran stockers, people had different theories about what caused extra wear on them. Maybe they finally figured it out, a quick search on the lt1 section of ls1tech will tell you if theyve come to a consensus.
Vigo wrote: So where is her studio now? My wife has half of our 20x40 building for her pottery studio.
High five for potters! Right now she is in the basement for throwing and the garage for firing. Eventually I will frame off 1/4 of the garage and finish it out a little nicer for her studio. I still have to wire it for the big tools though.
Opti said: I like the cam, low duration and low LSA but if you've got the iron heads you should have the press in studs, gonna have to change those with that much lift. You can yank them and tap the holes for screw in studs on the work bench though, just make sure your tapping them straight. Probably gonna need a stall and tune. I think people were using the 4 cyl s10 converters, flashed at like 2100 rpms or something like that, id google it though its been years since I saw it. Also double check your oil pump drive gear, when I sold my LT1 people were starting to kill the stock gear with aftermarket cams, some got bronze ones, some bought special ever wear ones, some ran stockers, people had different theories about what caused extra wear on them. Maybe they finally figured it out, a quick search on the lt1 section of ls1tech will tell you if theyve come to a consensus.
Thanks for the tips! I bought a set of dual springs that will apparently handle the lift without any head modifications. Also, I'm only running the stock 1.5 RRs, so those lift values will be a bit lower. Might squeak by without new studs, since I hear .55 is a safe limit for them, but on the other hand I'll have it apart anyway...you know how that logic can spiral out of control!
The converters people run are from '96-up V6 S10s. Apparently they bolt right in and stall just past 2000, so I've had my eyes out for one. I also have a bluetooth OBD1 tuner and it's awesome.
Also, do any B-body guys have ideas for weight savings that won't ruin a perfectly fine automobile? I would like to be able to put it mostly back together one day. I can strip the interior but don't want to shell the doors permanently. I have a welder, so bumper support, tubular trans mount, etc are on the table.
Well, the way back seat and associated hardware weigh 60 lbs. Middle seat is probably about half that. Roof racks are light, but easily removable. I think manual window cranks on all 4 windows would shave some weight if you could find a set. Maybe a donut spare instead of full size, but that's all the super easy stuff.
Front seats/motors could be swapped for some lighter manual seats with some fabrication. I'd bet they're pretty heavy with 6-way motors.
Back seatbelts weigh a few lbs. Plastic interior panels in the back don't weigh much, so not a lot to gain there.
Front/rear bumper supports are fairly heavy, as are the bumper shock absorbers.
Air pump delete. Cat delete. Exhaust turn-down in front of rear axles. Aluminum wheels.
Other than that, all the glass is heavy. But good luck getting it formed in plexi or something.
One guy on issf supposedly got a caprice sedan down to about 3400 lbs, but that was manual everything and probably no sound deadening.
Good luck and let us know if you find anything else hiding out.
I had some time to escape the house renovations so I installed the spacers and wheels. I gotta say, I'm pleased. Not too shabby for 80 dollar adapters and a 60 dollar wheelset.
I also discovered my shocks have funny little air lines, just like my Camino, so I pumped them up for bit more aggressive stance. The rear tires almost scrape...just almost.
maschinenbau wrote:
wipes a tear
needs hit with the lowering stick.
Take a can of black semi-gloss to the wheel wells and it will look great!
Dusterbd13 wrote: needs hit with the lowering stick.
I know I can cut a half coil or so from the fronts for a nice drop and littler extra stiffness.
Any tips for dropping the rear? I hear P71 springs swap right in, or 9C1 springs of course. It's just hard to tell what's what at the junkyard.
maschinenbau wrote: ...I also have a bluetooth OBD1 tuner and it's awesome...
Can you tell me more about this? How much did it cost and what parameters does it allow you to tweak?
Free Android app called Torque and a Bluetooth adapter is what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=elm327+bluetooth&tag=hydsma-20&index=automotive&hvadid=27865459794&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9260810893733040474&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&ref=pd_sl_7002mhkvgx_e
Torque doesn't work for my car because it's OBD1, but the OBD1 PCMs are supposedly easier to tune.
I got an $80 Bluetooth tuner from http://www.1320electronics.com/ and the support has been amazing. Just email John about which one to order for your car. Mine being a '95 B-body uses a 12-pin OBD1 port, so it's important that you get the right cable. The little box is powered by your car and connects via Bluetooth, so you don't worry about cords everywhere. The serial port on the box is NOT for connecting your computer, but for adding a wide-band O2 sensor. You only connect via bluetooth so your computer needs that capability or a $4 USB bluetooth thingy from Amazon. It also works with the ALDLdroid app for reading codes and datalogging. Honestly haven't messed around with it much due to house renovations/cold garage, but I was reading data from my phone at one point with ease.
I installed http://www.tunerpro.net/, a free-ish software that will supposedly modify just about everything on the PCM. Spark and fuel tables, shift points, temp corrections, etc. You need another software called Winflash to do the actual flashing of the PCM, which has a free trial and is $20 after that. I haven't actually flashed my PCM yet but I have been able to download and modify the stock 'bin' files.
If yours is a '94 we should be able to use the same cable, bin files, and datastream definitions.
Thanks for the info!
I wanted to be able to tweak my timing, re-calibrate the speedo for the 4.10 gears we're going to install, and increase the line pressure for the tranny. I'll look into the software you suggested.
I was going to go with the $150 tuner Cats Kit, but yours look to be a bit cheaper...
PS: If you still need gaskets, the Summit house brand LT gasket kit is by far the cheapest one out there (~$80). I haven't ever use done before, but I ordered it yesterday so I'll see how it is.
In reply to maschinenbau:
where did you get the wheel adapters?
I've always wanted one of these with heads, cam, and a huge shot of spray.
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