Yeah, I've been neglecting this thread. Progress has not stopped, though! It's time to catch this thing up, but it'll have to wait a day or two. For now, here's a teaser.. 
Yeah, I've been neglecting this thread. Progress has not stopped, though! It's time to catch this thing up, but it'll have to wait a day or two. For now, here's a teaser..
Is that....a PCV valve being routed into a coolant hose?
In reply to 95maxrider :
Lol, yes, Nick, that's exactly it.
That breather line will actually run to an oil catch can that then vents into the individual intake filters. There's another pcv valve on the DS of the engine that plumbs to one side of the larger brass tee shown here. The other tee port runs to the brake booster. This was the bench mockup of the whole vac setup that is happening under the itbs.
In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :
Well that got a lot more interesting
So, uh, I suck at updating this thread, but work has continued consistently.
The bad news is I missed another event, the first of the season.
The good news is.. DIRTHAMMER LIVES! I took a few laps around the block, and it felt so damn good to drive it again. I can't do much more until I get the 5 day temp reg you can get in DC to get something through inspection.
Here's a quick startup vid: (haven't figured out how to embed a google video) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bDds_6WA5rekKvNZixx5hZkXeIyvM_JO/preview
Current cockpit status
Converted to manual brakes, deleting the abs in the process.
Brain box. That's an ms3pro module with a Westfield mx5 daughter board meant for NB miatas, and a combo wideband gauge/controller. The extra space is for future playing with Arduino activities.
Susquehanna scca has a tnt/school April 23rd I'm planning to hit up for first shakedown.
Also, big thanks to rallyperry for sharing his tune to use as a sanity check as I set up the base tune for mine!
'bout time :)
btw, just so I don't forget later when I get the DS from you - if you still have the front bolts, I could use those (or, at least 3 of them). :)
You bet, bud. I should also say, I owe a huge thanks to Josh (irish44j) for the periodic trips he's made out to help me get this thing to where it's at. Having him drop by with his relentless efficiency is always a big boost, though he's hard to keep busy enough! I've had a rough couple years, and having a friend who consistently shows up to help, and helps just focus on some fun stuff, is so very appreciated. 
bluej (Forum Supporter) said:You bet, bud. I should also say, I owe a huge thanks to Josh (irish44j) for the periodic trips he's made out to help me get this thing to where it's at. Having him drop by with his relentless efficiency is always a big boost, though he's hard to keep busy enough! I've had a rough couple years, and having a friend who consistently shows up to help, and helps just focus on some fun stuff, is so very appreciated.
Totally self-serving. I need you to get this done so when I break mine I have something to co-drive ;)
Seriously though, happy to help out. It's good to get out of my own garage sometimes and work on a car that's actually clean :)
Why the Miata adapter for the ms?
moxnix said:Why the Miata adapter for the ms?
Good question. I had originally picked up a used ms3pnp pro meant for wrx's. The price was ~2/3rds what just the module goes for. I had hoped to be able to adapt that pnp unit, but these boards are cheap and seemed a better fit for the engine, while giving me a way to add functionality and a decent connector to the ms3pro module.
Link to the board: Westfield mx5 NB board
Documentation left something to be desired, but that's as much due to my using it for an engine other than intended.
Is that a single circuit master?
ian sane said:Is that a single circuit master?
It is, but so is the stock one. It's. 3/4" bore unit, while stock is 13/16". I also modified the pedal link to be a 5:1 ratio vs stock 4.3:1 I think it was. Rallyx doesn't require as much braking force as most motorsports, so this was a stab at improving feel with a small step in both bore and ratio. I won't be surprised if I end up needing to swap to a different one or altering the ratio further.
edit: stock is not a single circuit. derp.
In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :
Stock e30 master? That's not single circuit...
I went manual brakes when I first swapped to an m50. Kicked up to a 6ish:1 ratio and definitely needed the extra bore size. I think I ended up with the 25mm e32 master. Can't wait to see this ripping it up.
I thought by law, at least in the US, cars built since somewhere around 1967 had to be dual circuit to be road legal.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
You are correct, sir. All new vehicles since 1967 have been required to have a dual circuit brake system.
Yeah, I was mistaken.
In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :
If I had a dollar for every time I was wrong, I could probably retire...
I love what you're doing with the car.
In reply to Recon1342 :
Indeed, same here! and thanks!
I'm going to leave it be for now until I've been able to test and make sure that the bore size is working. Doing those lines wasn't as bad as I feared, and I've got the extra line and tools for it now. There will be some stock MC with dual circuits I can make work.
Sooooo, you coming out this weekend? 
bluej (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Recon1342 :
There will be some stock MC with dual circuits I can make work.
brake guy breathes sigh of relief...
word of caution: try to avoid running brake tubes higher than the bore of the MC. they're really hard to bleed that way.
bluej (Forum Supporter) said:It's time for an audience participation portion of this build: please critique my crossmember!
The engine clears in what I'd call the design intent location, but here's an example of what has been removed to get there:
Clearly there is more cleanup required, but that gives a good idea of what I'm working with. The stock crossmember has a top and bottom channel that meet at a flange front and rear, running along the length between both sides of the main chassis. My main thought is to turn that now significantly smaller center cross section into something more "corrugated" I guess is a good word for it, and then add an extra horizontal plate internally where it transitions at the sides, and that ties into that center reinforcement . I'd like some feedback from the more knowledgeable if my plan looks like it's enough on both accounts.
Here's another pic of the crossmember for reference first:
This sketch is a section through the center portion. The green is the stock metal, and red is new. The idea is to use angle along the center and between the steering rack mounts, then separate sections of plate stitching them together along the rear.
pics of a few progress mockups:
(would trim the flange portion that conflicts with the new angle on the rack mount on the right)
Here's a sketchover of the entire thing that shows a rough plan for linking the center and sides. Blue is the internal angle. Red is the angle reinforcing the rack mounts. The green is plate that I would slot the sides to allow to extend out to match the projected depth of the stock crossmember flange (hope that makes sense). The green would follow the internal contours so that it hits the front for as far as I can reach in to weld, and ties into the peak of the blue angle. The lightly shaded blurple areas are where there would be plate along the rear to box it all in, but split above and below to have a weld seam where it meets the side plates and center angle. The transition areas of the rear plate would either get bent or cut from tube.
I have more pictures I can share if it would help, too. thanks!
What did you use to make that last image of the crossmember?
95maxrider said:Sooooo, you coming out this weekend?
yep! planning to come out saturday, probably help some with the rallysprint, then camp in the flex. we'll see how early I get out there. I need to replace the now-dead fuel pump, and figure out which wire I need to go back and ground/splice from removing the stock MR/FP?o2 relays and ABS wiring in order to get the ignition key to work for break lights and such. I still have all of those bits, so that helps, just more time with the wiring diagram. Makes me wish, again, that the e30 diagram had the pin outs labeled on the connector views. pump arrived today.
I had to bail on a tnt this past saturday, but definitely have time thursday/friday to work on all this. DH and I are coming out Saturday, and I hope to be able to spend some time there on Saturday, tooling around a bit to to tune. it's stil so rough.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:bluej (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Recon1342 :
There will be some stock MC with dual circuits I can make work.
brake guy breathes sigh of relief...
word of caution: try to avoid running brake tubes higher than the bore of the MC. they're really hard to bleed that way.
noted on both :p
I swear, I stood back after finishing it up and thought: "well, that looks ok. I'm sure AC will point out my failures, like if having the line up above like that is bad (can't be helped), or if i'll die in a fire ball with a single circuit." 
In reply to Turbo_Rev :
Pretty sure I did that in Acrobat (pro version has more tools).
bluej (Forum Supporter) said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:bluej (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Recon1342 :
There will be some stock MC with dual circuits I can make work.
brake guy breathes sigh of relief...
word of caution: try to avoid running brake tubes higher than the bore of the MC. they're really hard to bleed that way.
noted on both :p
I swear, I stood back after finishing it up and thought: "well, that looks ok. I'm sure AC will point out my failures, like if having the line up above like that is bad (can't be helped), or if i'll die in a fire ball with a single circuit."
I mean the stock e30 front brake circuit line runs above the master cylinder height
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