Love OEM motorcycle factory hardware also. As a tall person the bar struggle is real and I feel it in my soul.
Love OEM motorcycle factory hardware also. As a tall person the bar struggle is real and I feel it in my soul.
In reply to docwyte :
I've done similar; I feel like we're definitely nerds of a feather!
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
I can certainly relate. If I had a nickel for every time my 5'10" friends asked, "Why do you spend all this time/money changing out handlebars, footpegs, seats, steering wheels, pedal boxes on your vehicles instead of just enjoying them as they are? How big a difference can it really make?" 
I got the switches and controls mocked up, and I think the lengths will work without extending lines, which is really nice. The map switch tends to rotate on the handlebar, so I dove into my bicycle parts drawer and found some thin rubber shim stock typically used for mounting bicycle lights/speedometers/GPS, and it really did the trick between the clamp and the bar.
I also removed the really oddly-shaped and not-very-effective KTM mirrors, and installed some Stealth mirrors. These have a good position to provide a decent rearward view under my arms, past my hips, without having to bob/weave my head. The flip side is a bit more of a look down, and don't offer much detail, being small, convex, and vibrating. On the Husky I run the Stealth mirrors along with the stock circular above-bar mirrors. I may do the same on this if needed.
I received the chain guard I ordered, but the case saver has been discontinued, so my order was canceled. Much internet sleuthing commenced. The chain guard may benefit from a very minor trim right next to the edge of the tire. My plan to eventually switch to a true street tire may help with clearance.
Here's the radiator with stripped rivnut removed.
In addition to putting in a new rivnut, I straightened some bent fins on both sides, and blew a E36 M3load of dust out of both radiators, which will hopefully help with cooling.
With the radiators in decent shape and with mounting hardware on order, I drained the coolant, pulled the right radiator forward, and got ready to install the fan. With a couple extra inches of room (everything on this bike is packaged very tightly) I was able to find the as-of-yet unused optional cooling fan plug in the factory harness, and pull it out. I think this photo was before blasting the caked-on dust/mud out of the radiator.
I also ordered a few small bottles and a turkey baster to try out as possible items to make into a coolant overflow reservoir. I removed the ~4" hose off the top of the radiator that vents steam onto the header/engine when it overheats. I'll attach a longer hose and route it to a reservoir that hopefully will fit alongside the radiator, inside the shroud, without being in the way of the airflow too much, and will clear the forks at steering lock, and will still allow room for the horn. It might take a few mockups to get it all to fit.
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
Ha! I'm 5'11" but all torso/arms. So I end up doing the same thing as you. My 690 has the Scotts stabilizer mount, plus bar risers to get the bars where I want/need them. I'd still like them a little higher but then I'd need to get longer cables made and I just don't feel like doing that...
I like and use the Double Take mirrors on my bikes. One thing I wish I could do is add another radiator fan to my 690. People do it all the time to the 640's, 950/990's etc. Sadly there isn't room to do it on the 690, and it really could use one...
I still need to fix the subframe on the Husaberg. They aren't available new. If I had my druthers, I'd want a black one to match the black main fuel tank, but those only came on some tiny fraction of all the models/years in the range. I'd already wasted several hundred bucks on the "black" one from Greece that turned out to have bad rattle can paint, stripped threaded inserts, and holes in it that mean it will never be able to be converted to an auxiliary tank.
I tried repairing the damaged subframe with the technique recommended in my Polyvance plastic welder kit, a sort of "plastic brazing" and it didn't work. 
I tried epoxy and a helicoil on the damaged metal threaded insert. The thread repair worked, but the epoxy didn't!
I bumped all my WTB threads on all the various forums and groups. The only responses I got were more hop-ons of other people wanting to buy one if some seller magically popped up with multiples, which none did. I searched foreign suppliers to see if there might be some hidden in Europe or Oz, but no luck. The oldest of these bikes is now fifteen years old, and the youngest of them is eleven years old. A few years ago you could get one made by KTM through their dealer network, or get an aftermarket one made specifically as a fuel tank through 70 Degree Racing. Now...nothing. The guys from 70 Degree had some drama and damage to tooling (or something) and made an attempt to bounce back, but gave up and pulled the plug. I know it isn't a common bike, but it isn't like it is super-limited production like a Bimota, or a TM, and it also isn't super old.
I've contemplated lots of options. It seems like getting new ones made in the original crosslinked polyethylene would take a minimum of tens of thousands of dollars to make the tooling and get production started, which doesn't seem realistic path for me to get one or two for myself.
What other options exist? Make a mold off the damaged tank, make one in FRP/carbon with bonded in metal inserts, and then try to coat the interior to make it a gas tank? It is a really complex shape, and with multiple metal inserts, I'm not sure if it is realistic for me with my rudimentary composites skills.
Maybe try to find a master aluminum fabricator to shape/weld one up in aluminum and then pressure test it? I imagine that it is easily a four figure job, and might approach the light weight of the original, but probably wouldn't offer the same weight/durability.
Buy a second perfectly good Husaberg for the subframe ($3000-$7500, always at least a few within a 500 mile radius on Facebook and Craigslist) then swap subframes, and sell the second bike with the hacked-up subframe at a loss? The problem with this is that I could be out time and money for a not-much-better subframe, plus the hassle of the swap, and the hassles of buying/selling, DMV fees, etc.
I found a guy on Facebook who had posted several times seeking input on an impending run of subframe tanks he said would be ready soon once they ironed out a few kinks and started production. I replied to his thread affirming my serious interest, and asking him what obstacles remained to see if I could offer any help to push things across the finish line. I also PMed him. No reply to either, so I bumped the thread and sent another PM a few months later, asking the same, and asking for a response...crickets.
Any ideas welcome.
Issue like this is why I'm quite happy with my drz at times, I have been shopping new TMs on and off and why I can't pull the trigger on one just yet. Awesome job bringing the bike back to life. Brings a smile to my face.
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
In some ways, I miss the simplicity of the days where all my go-to bike was a DR350. Just ride, put gas in it, occasionally change the oil and check wearing parts, and ride some more. If I needed anything it was available new and used, genuine Suzuki and aftermarket. 
I'd love a TM because it is probably the most-attainable path to a handbuilt limited-production Italian racing machine for an average guy...and they are beautiful! I'm not convinced the riding experience would be head and shoulders above something like a KTM/Husky/Beta, but I could just sit in the garage and stare at it. The white/blue is nice, and the retro pink is awesome.
Work continued...still catching up on tasks I've already finished. I really like how solid threaded handguard mounts are, and I love weighted bar ends on a thumper, so I got some Faast Co brass weighted handguard mounts and started tapping the inside of the new handlebar.
Cutting the threads seemed to take a surprising amount of effort, which I originally chalked up to my injured wrist. I tried cutting fluid and very small amounts of forward before backing it off to break the chips free. I wasn't sure, so I roped my shopmate into helping, and after he expressed doubts, I stopped to reevaluate. I had a second tap, so I tried it, and...it worked! Guess I can throw out the first tap!
I also procured a lightly-used case saver/chain guide since new ones are discontinued. It came from Australia, and looks to be in great used condition.
The moment of truth! Internet research didn't deliver definitive evidence of compatibility with a 15t front sprocket, but it clears quite nicely, which is great news.
While I was in there, I tested fuel pressure and TPS. It seems to run pretty well when it isn't boiling over or vapor-locked, but it does pop a lot on the overrun. My Husky specialty tools work on the Husaberg as well, which is nice. Fuel pressure checks out. I also confirmed that there is no inline filter (and therefore no clog) between the tank outlet and the fuel rail.
The TPS is adjustable and enters into the the fuel mixture calculations from the ECU. More voltage=more fuel. The spec calls for 0.601V with a closed throttle. Internet wisdom indicates less than the spec might be troublesome, but slightly more than usually doesn't hurt. My gut said lean before investigating. Here's the multimeter plugged into the inline test tool.
The reading comes back a little lean at closed throttle!
The voltage sweeps upward consistently while opening the throttle, which is good.
The TPS is only secured by one fastener, and is *touchy* when adjusting it. I got it to 0.618V when closed, which was the best I could do that was close to/above spec, and not below, and torqued the one fastener.
I wasted quite a bit of time trying to do a better repair on the used subframe from Greece, but ultimately failed. I tried both plastic brazing and epoxy, but neither repair held, and while tapping the worn metal insert for a helicoil, it started slipping and spinning inside the repaired plastic. 
I found another used subframe in Germany, and bought it in hopes that it will be decent enough to use. €215 plus €99 shipping, so fingers crossed this isn't throwing good money after bad!
I got the weighted handlebar inserts/handguard mounts and got them installed.
I also started removing the subframe, and figured I'll probably remove the tank while I'm at. Two reasons for removing the tank: I'm 95% of the way there, and pulling it will allow me to insulate he underside and reduce the problems with vapor lock. The second reason is that with the insanely-tight packaging and the single fastener on the TPS, I'm paranoid that I knocked it back out of adjustment when unplugging the inline wiring tool (it took a ton of force) mostly because the connector is hard up against the wiring harness, which is hard up against the underside of the tank. With the tank off, I can get a good measurement and easily remove the tool without risking shifting the adjustment. Sigh...how did mke put it?..."My stuff ends up nice because I do everything twice!" or something like that.
Here's the subframe partway off.
Tank removed. The bottom half of the airbox that extends through the hole in the middle of the tank is apparent above the frame. The mass-centralization efforts in the design become even more apparent once you start stripping the bike back.
Im still undecided on shields on the handguards. I know I want integrated turn signals, decent coverage, and a style that matches with the bike. Since the colors of the plastics are all over the place, I'm thinking of wrapping the bike, so a surface that isn't too terribly indented might be good. The guards I have are Zeta (made by Cycra) and I've used both Zeta and Cycra shields on these before with good luck. Cycra requires Dremeling an opening for the turn signal LEDs and has a more rounded shape. Zeta has the LED opening pre-cut and is a little more angular, but also has a surface that I imagine is tough to wrap.
Maybe these mid-sized Zeta?
My concern is the complexity of the shape for wrapping, and the extra holes. For the wet and cool Pacific NW, I like a bit more coverage. Hmmm...
Here's the guards mocked up. There's a dearth of options for inboard mounts for Euro bikes with hydraulic clutch and 1-1/8 fat handlebars, so the inner end is hanging while I ponder.
With the tank off, I was able to do even more radiator work, straightening bent fins and cleaning out dust and caked dirt on the back of the radiators.
Before:
After...not great, but better!
With the bike stripped back, the mass-centralization of the design becomes really apparent.
I found more damaged wiring...the turn signal relay connector got munched at some point, and has cracked insulation and bent pins as well.
The wiring harness holder arrived!
Still quite a bit of repair work to do, and some further organizing and constraining once I'm confident the lengths and placements are good.
It probably doesn't come across in the pics, but that one little part is the difference between a big mess that feels hopeless, and a minor mess with light at the end of the tunnel.
With the tank off, I was able to start assessing the underside for heat shielding. I started by washing the mud off with soap and water. Here's the area in question, a complex shape.
I followed the wash with a rubbing alcohol wipe down. The product I intended to use is a "lava shield" I already had, a woven sheet with adhesive backing. It doesn't have much give or stretch. The test piece did not conform super well, and did not adhere to the polyethylene as well as I had hoped. I ripped the test piece back off, gave it a second wipe down, and decided to make templates with masking tape.
The tape had two functions; creating a nice template for sectioning the final material around the tight bends, and the adhesive helped me identify any areas that may not adhere with the final product, pulling up remaining bits of dirt. I layered strips of tape next to each other, and used a Sharpie on the corners to mark the tape. The way the masking tape sheet laid down also gave an indication of how well the final thing may or may not stretch or bend.
After marking and trimming the tape, I temporarily stuck it to the top surface of the heat shield, and cut out the shapes before pulling the tape back off.
The sections came together well; I'm pleased with the results!
Since the edges of the weave seemed prone to fraying, and possibly wicking moisture, I decided to seal them with aluminum tape. Will it help? Who knows? I can't imagine it will hurt.
Looking good!
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks! I've been cranking on this project because it has recently become apparent we can't stay at the shared shop space I've been renting for the past dozen years...but that's another story. Thankfully I've spent quite a bit of time over the past six months sorting, downsizing, getting rid of stuff and repacking in case this day ever came. Now that we're down to the last couple months, it is time to get everything that doesn't roll rolling, and try to get everything that doesn't run running to make it easier to move. I've got a storage unit and I'm renting an extra parking space (secure, climate-controlled) from a neighbor for now. I can use the shop at work (off the clock) for discreet projects if I'm done and cleaned up in a timely manner. Shopping for a new home will be a task for a little later on...hoping to find a big garage with a little house in the city...might be a challenge, but I've got hope.
Oh yeah, I found another photo of the process for cutting the heat shielding to fit.
I got the tank remounted. If you look in the background, the intact subframe from Germany arrived!
I decided to do something to secure the inner ends of the handguards. Given the circumstances, I figured an imperfect but functional solution should work until I have time to make it better. The bracketry on the top triple clamp is awfully close to the right spot, and already has a hole in it...hmmm...
I whipped up some aluminum angle brackets on the inner end of the handguards, tied to the front turn signal/instrument cluster bracket, which is bolted to the top triple clamp. That should work for now. A bit light duty, and might not hold up great in a crash, but, should work for now, and can be made more stout later.
Getting the new (used) subframe on was an exercise in patience. I took the subframe off and on multiple times, rearranged the strands of the wiring harness multiple times, and took the gas tank off and on multiple times.
The challenge is that the battery box fits in a small space between the subframe and the tank. The space is barely bigger than the battery box. The lid to the battery box has little tabs and channels to hold the ECU, starter relay, fuse box, diagnostic test connector, battery leads, and one of the big main harness multi-pin connectors. Aaaaand the major strands of the harness occupy the same small space, weaving up, through, and around the battery box/lid in a very specific way. Each strand is just barely long enough. Each one has to be in exactly the right order/space to fit. Aaaand to get good access to muck with it, it is best to have the tank/subframe off, or at least loose, but with them off/loose you can't figure out where stuff needs to go. 
I will say one thing about mass-produced Japanese bikes that spoiled me is the repair manuals. Very comprehensive wiring diagrams, and nice wire routing guides illustrating where everything fits, how the cables/lines relate to each other and where they are constrained.
The Husaberg shop manual has a very simple wiring diagram, noting wire colors, major components, and connectors. Where are any of these things on the bike? No idea. What shape/size/number of pins for the connectors? No idea. What is the internal function of any of the relays, switches, etc? No idea. But at least you know that power flows out of relay that is somewhere on the bike, with some mystery number of pins/internal power flow, down a yellow/blue wire, through connector X257, and eventually to the part you are trying to work on.
Removing/replacing, or simply routing the wires in the harness? Scarcely a single word in the manual, and those mentions are scattered across sections on chassis, bodywork, brakes, etc. Not great, but then again, what can one expect of a tiny company making some of the highest-performance bikes with the best components?
I guess the only way is flipping back to the disassembly photos on my phone, searching for additional angles in the forums, finding out that the photos I need were lost to the Photoberkit debacle, more trial and error, etc...
Spent some more time wrangling with the wire harness. I made a big leap forward when I figured out that someone prior to me changed the orientation of the starter relay. Not only was the relay rotated to a position where it didn't fit well, but the wires in and out of the relay were also loosened, repositioned, and then tightened down, making it hard to figure out what was wrong.
With all the starter relay wires in the wrong orientation, they didn't reach the battery terminals, so the dreaded previous owner bent things in an attempt to get it to fit.
Once I'd sorted that out, things began to fall into place.
Not quite right, but getting closer!
Now we're getting there! I put the battery box back in, hopefully for the last time, and got the subframe brace on.
Really nice to see an intact subframe with all the attachment points for the rear shock guard!
Wiring work continues. The battery area is reassembled and everything fits. I think I'll even have room to sneak battery tender leads in there. Note the broken insulation on the battery positive lead.
I think the fact that the terminal was obviously bent to try and reach the battery post could have something to do with the broken insulation. I bent the terminal back into shape. The copper strands all look good. I added thick adhesive heat shrink.
It might not look obvious at first glance, but I'm making progress in getting this bit of wiring behind the headlight more organized and constrained.
Since the handguards are on, I guess I can put the grips back on. The closed-end grips that came off are decently comfortable and in great shape, so I'll open up the ends and put them back on for now. Getting in there with some initial crude cuts.
Once I've got the end opened up, it is easier to make a clean cut.
And installed!
Moving to the other end, I got the splash guard installed. So gratifying!!
The muffler is also back on.
I also started working on a better license plate mount. Nothing results in more unwanted attention than a half-assed plate mount. My temporary mount was definitely half-assed. I got a plate mount that has an ABS plate which provides a rigid backing, and a TPU-printed mounting part that can stretch when bumped.
I ordered a bunch of wiring supplies so that I can fix stuff properly, with the correct connectors, and I'm trying to wait patiently while searching for tasks I can do in the meantime.
I started mocking up the headlight, mask, front turn signals, etc. I don't want to totally button any of it up yet as I've still got wiring to do. I love the style of a front fender brace on a high-performance supermoto!
In this mockup I've gone with bigger black Zeta shields on the handguards. I like the coverage, they fit the integrated turn signals, they don't have any holes in them, and the aesthetics of the shape work pretty well IMO. They will probably be wrapped in a different color. I'm still undecided now, but leaning towards the bigger ones.
I'm struggling with the headlight mounting/adjustment. Since I'm swapping from the adapted-KTM parts that came on the US model to the Husaberg parts that everyone else got, all the hardware is different. I consulted the parts fiche and ordered everything. The headlight mounts with three fasteners. There are two self-tapping screws into plastic in the upper corners that are a solid mount to the bracket. The light and light bracket pivot on the central bottom part of the bracket that connects to the fender brace. According to the parts fiche, the bottom mount of the headlight to bracket consists of (starting at the front and working backwards) a long M5 bolt, the headlight, a somewhat compressible rubber spacer tube, the mounting bracket, and finally a threaded mounting block at the backside of the bracket (all of which I ordered and have.) It is tough to explain, but maybe photos will help.
Here's the assembly separated from the fender brace, which when mounted is horizontal below what you can see here. There's a tab on the fender brace that engages the black plastic structure that is the lowest part of the assembly smack in the center in this photo. What's puzzling is that the headlight tab (chrome-ish on the right side, just above the loose wiring connector) has a captive white plastic threaded block (appears as a white circle, not specifically called out on the parts fiche, but ?? maybe part of the headlight assembly) and the black plastic bracket (center of photo) also has a captive white plastic threaded block, as depicted in the parts fiche, also appears as a white circle.
Here's what the block looks like alone. The hole on the front goes all the way through and is internally threaded. The cylindrical tabs on the side allow it rotate as the headlight angle adjusts up and down.
The rearward block (in the black plastic bracket) was called out as a separate part on the fiche, arrived as a separate part, and I installed it in the black plastic bracket. The forward block (in the chrome headlight assembly) was not on the parts fiche, but came pre-installed in the headlight assembly. I ordered the headlight as a single part, and the assembly arrived bagged as a single part.
Both blocks are threaded with standard thread. The bolt is threaded with standard thread. Two problems: If the bolt has threads engaged on both blocks, no adjustment is possible...both blocks just walk up and down the bolt in the same relationship to each other. Second problem is that the spacer is way too long to realistically engage both blocks, or the bolt is 10-15mm too short. Something doesn't seem right. I shouldn't have to compress the rubber spacer to the near the limit of compressibility just to get the threads started...to offer no headlight level adjustment.
What am I missing? I could see it working if the one bolt was longer, and had two sets of opposite-handed threads, like a turnbuckle. I could see it working with only the rear block, and the rubber spacer acting as a spring. I could see it working with only the front block, the the rubber spacer acting as a spring, and some completely different structure at the back that captures the bolt lengthwise, but allows it to turn freely without threading.
I tried removing the front block. Here is the headlight, bolt, and spacer without the bracket. The length of the bolt and spacer make more sense now, but it still seems off...I can't imagine a need to pry a difficult-to-remove included small part just to make it fit.
It works for adjustability, but the headlight is now too far back and hits the headstock of the frame.
Any ideas?
Drilling a hole in the front fender for the fender brace.
I like the shape of this front fender better than the narrow/pointy needle-nose Euro front fender, and the fender brace to fender fitment will take a little adjustment, but should be doable.
One integrated turn signal mocked up. That's enough for this evening; I'm pretty sure there's an adult beverage with my name on it awaiting consumption. Hopefully more to come soon.
I spent some time today staring at the wiring, trying several mock ups, and working on a plan.
I added an LED turn signal indicator light conversion kit, developed a strategy for the ignition map switch wiring that will kill multiple birds with one stone, and got both front turn signals installed in the handguard shields.
The plan for the ignition map switch is to shorten the excess length that creates a minor fit issue, repair the damaged wiring, and use a smaller type of connector that will also help with fit in a tiny area really packed with electrical components.
I did some work on the headlight adjuster. I drilled out the front threaded block to remove the internal threads. I reinstalled the block in the headlight bucket. I substituted a 10mm longer bolt, and the bolt barely fits! The headlight angle can be adjusted by turning the bolt, and hopefully the back of the bulb clears the frame. I am going to hold off on any further modifications or engineering until I have a more complete mockup and can assess ballpark clearance between the LED headlight bulb and the frame, as well as the ballpark headlight angle.
I'm awaiting the arrival of some slow-shipping wiring supplies before I can do much more.
The clock is still ticking on the shop space, but I've been stymied on the Husaberg while awaiting wiring stuff I ordered. Sure, I could get it done right away if absolutely necessary, but I want to do it right with the same style connectors as factory, and completely new pins, connectors, and color-matching wiring, not bodged together with all the colors and splices and a mishmash of connectors.
Thankfully I got a shipping notification today; should be here next week.
In the meantime, I've refocused on the GSXR250, and ordered a few brake system parts. I'm hoping to get it rolling on tires that hold air (and hopefully on wheels with fresh paint,) along with a rebuilt and functional brake system. If there's any time left over, I'll work on fork rebuild, carb/tank/petcock, and getting it running. If time runs short, it moves as-is, so I'm good to stash it in storage as-is.
In Worst-Timing-In-The-World news, the nearby importer I've bought multiple vehicles from just got a unicorn of a late-80's dream Bimota I've dreamed about since it was new. The same importer just got in a dream late-80's Ducati that has been a dream of my co-worker since it was new. He and I have been talking, and it sure would be easy to enable each other, and go pick them up together, but...I've got nowhere to put it, medical bills looming from the red-light runner who hit me, and the unfinished Husaberg project as it is.
Slightly dated photo:
Minor update:
I haven't bought a Bimota (yet...) as the timing is terrible.
I have been working on the Husaberg as time allows in between preparing for the shop move.
The wiring stuff arrived! Before getting to crimping, I connected the battery, rigged stuff up *very* temporarily and did some testing to confirm functionality.
Success! With the Moto Gadget fixed-rate flash relay, Sicass LED-compatible turn signal indicator adapter kit, 12 o'clock Labs Advanced Programmable rear LED turn signals, and the front Zeta LED turn signals, everything is functioning as expected! i.e. running lights rear with flashback turn signals, no hyperflash, left signalling left, etc. Hooray.
I plan to add a 12 o'clock Labs inline running light adapter for the front turn signals (rears can be programmed without) to add all the visibility. Everything tested so far is much brighter than stock, which is awesome.
There are few things on earth more gratifying than tidying up half-assed wiring. Here's a couple before and after for you.
Related side note, the non-sticky self-adhesive OE-style harness wrap (as pictured above) is so much better than straight electrical tape, it is ridiculous.
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