Testing a running light adapter on the front turn signals for even more visibility to other traffic. I like using alligator clips and or wire nuts just for testing. Once I've confirmed that everything is functioning correctly and I have it all connected properly, I can move on to properly wiring it in. In this case it worked perfectly in the test.
Once I confirmed function, I temporarily ziptied the unit in place where I intend to mount it, and one by one routed the wires, overlapping each connecting pair in turn, and then cutting through both wires at once while holding them in the correct routing, resulting in the perfect length. This adapter goes in between the the turn signal switch/relay and the turn signals themselves. I debated hardwiring it in (more compact/less serviceable) and ended up electing to add factory style connectors. This will make it easy to remove/undo in the future...as easy as unplugging it, and reconnecting things directly, and also easy to replace should it ever fail (highly unlikely, but...)
Here's the running light adapter roughly in place (not yet mounted) just below the top triple clamp on the right side of the photo. I cut the leads to the turn signals roughly to length...you can see them dangling. The turn signals still need a final exact trim to length and connector installed, and I'll be done with wiring for the lights.
I gave up on the factory stop/start switch I ordered from AOMC at the beginning of December which has had an order status of "picking" for the past ten weeks, and just ordered from another vendor. That will allow me to remove a big chunk of dodgy aftermarket parts with modified wiring by unplugging it and plugging in the proper switch.
After replacing the stop/start switch, the last wiring-related tasks will be A) location and mounting for the ignition cylinder, and B) troubleshooting the intermittent starting issue if it isn't fixed by the switch.
Key cylinder idea number one. Unfortunately this is right in the way of the tabs for mounting the front mask plastics.
Key cylinder idea number two. So why can't I mount it like before? In theory I could, but I changed up the front headlight and plastics, and the old mounting location is so low and far outboard that the cylinder and wiring would be hanging out visible and begging to be hotwired. Originally it sat midway between the top and bottom triple clamps slightly outboard of the fork tube.
Yes, a bit of plastic won't do much to dissuade a determined thief, but I don't want to also attract the attention of the lazy opportunistic thief. I have additional measures in place to protect against both (which I'm not divulging on a public Internet forum) but if I can save the hassle of some methhead from hacking at my wiring and causing damage before giving up, I will do so.
