Andy's Challenge Builds - Good Times Racing

Keep the HVAC. Do not go full race. 

Also, even in a full race car the windshield can fog up in different weather conditions. Defrost is useful. 

All of that was already removed from mine. its completely hollow behind my dash. I have to say though, i love the ability to access all of my electrical panels i built. I can only imagine all of the combined components adds up to a sizable weight savings. 

I'm really scared of the 80s wiring and how brittle everything has been. 
 

Although I'd like AC and hear the likelihood of me getting it to work is low. 

Windows are ac enough lol. 

You wouldnt happen to have a spare rear set of factory shocks and springs would you? 

In reply to surfshibby07 :

I have one set of rear shocks. They will become spares once I determine I can truly have the $185 coilovers in my budget.

If I take the tedious amount of time to rework the factory harness and not screw it up I would definitely have the spare budget room. I have a bad feeling that I'm going to mess everything up and have to beg Calvin to come help me fix all my wrongs. 
 

That feel when the New in Box shifter I purchased is missing the GM shifter bracket. 
 

Minor win, removed one header without breaking a bolt. 1 for 4. Other side I was able to get the broken studs off without welding a nut on or drilling. Just need to find a cam and a T56 for after the challenge. 

Made my lower radiator mount today. Bolts in where the tow hooks are. The stock van hose may work with some trimming.... I wish

"all" I need to do is turn this into my new fuse box.

Quite stressful when I find a wire that goes back to the ECU connector that I pulled out the other half the sensor. Luckily I just missed the wire on depinning. Stripping the harness is a game of patience. Was concerned about figuring out this part of the fuse box because I couldn't find the diagram online for my year van. Don't know why I was looking for so long I have the fuse box. It will save 12.5% of my budget. Still will need to find help with the exhaust since I don't weld, yet. 

Get a coupler and section a chunk out of the hose where it goes forward

you're dangerously close to being out of the "does it bolt in" game

In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :

The sweet long tube headers that Bolt on would be half my budget. Someone also makes a $200 bracket to mount my drive by wire pedal  I'm really questioning how anyone justifies buying new parts. Except for a new T 56. 

Another new toy arrived today. Cheaper than my Chinese wiring harness. Also the number of people on Facebook that don't respond when I ask if you'll ship that camshaft. 
 

Can't wait for the turbo 5.3 triumph... stealing(indefinitely borrowing) my brother in laws welder he doesn't use to see if I have what it takes. 

Is this how a turbo LS challenge car works? 

No, you take a chunk of scrap and machine your own turbo flange to save $40 and you can get a fmic way cheaper i believe

In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :

That was a ebay kit with piping. Also the flange was more because it was divided with 2 2.5" inlets.
 

I'm amazed at the number of ebay quality parts for sale second hand for more than a new ebay quality part costs. 
 

^most of the parts are not currently purchased

In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :

I have a welder now, that makes me a welder right?

Andy Neuman said:

Is this how a turbo LS challenge car works? 

Does that turbo 2 diff come with axles?  What about a driveshaft?

The t11 diff uses a different driveshaft flange and axles is why I was asking.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

Yes the diff arrived with axles. Actually sold the old diff for $250. 

There are other things missing on the list like a driveshaft.

Not actually going to attempt a turbo build until I can figure out how to make my car run as is. Was just proposing a theoretical build to show how it's possible. Most of those prices even used new ebay parts.

That is pretty much the same exact build as my BMW, but for double the amount of money, and without a cam/valve spring upgrade. Agreed, zero reason to pay for a T4 flange. No need to buy injectors when you can decap the ones that come on the engine. 

You may be joke but that ugly hotside went mid 9's if I remember right. It was the main inspiration for mine.

In reply to cruisermatt :

All good points, no reason to waste on the injectors. If it works its not dumb on the hotside manifold. 

Does anyone have time to prorate the cost of my engine and transmission from my Chevy 3500 parts van. After reading the pro rating ruling, I think it could be a better rule to violate toward the be a dick rule than FMV trades. 

Sometimes we go backwards to go forwards. 
Sat the engine and transmission next to the spitfire.... I think it'll fit. 

Andy Neuman said:

Sat the engine and transmission next to the spitfire.... I think it'll fit. 

DO IT!!

When I bite off more than I can chew at work this is what happens to my project. Ordered the last few parts and tools in December that I needed to wrap this up.
 

Put in a bid for a large account at work that we never expected to have another shot at getting and now it's looking like we are in the front running. Which will eliminate all of my free time this winter to work on my project. 

I just saw your note about the rear end and driveshaft.

The driveshaft from a c4 corvette is the right length and has the correct trans side.  The rear part of the driveshaft is available to mate to the turbo 2 OR na dif.  The two difs do not use the same flange.  

Lemme see if I can find the right part number for the turbo 2 dif flange.

You can get The flange online for less yhan $50.  It is part # 2602-41 (verify!) The flange takes a 7260 u joint.  The corvette shaft should be 1310.  A Dana 5-788x combo u joint works to pair the 2 parts together.

The corvette driveshaft can be had for 50$ with good shopping skills (the aluminum one is the one you want).  Flange for 50$.  U joint for $20.  So about 120$ for a pretty good driveshaft!

Edit:  2 things...  I believe the th400 and the gm manual trans use the same trans yoke.  I also think they are the same length.   Second thing: this works when the engine is placed as close to the firewall as possible.  Obviously engine placement plays a large part in driveshaft length!  The aluminum driveshaft may not be able to be modified for length by some shops (if necessary).  I have one on the shelf and can measure it if that helps.

January has been eventful. 

Went to the doctor early January because I was in some pain. Had a surgical consult today and looks like I have 2x hernias that will need to be repaired. Looks like I won't be finishing the RX7 anytime soon.   

Same week my grandfather came down with Covid, we all thought it was an instant death sentence when we dropped him off at the hospital.  The hospital took good care of him and released him after 5 days of observation. Went to a nursing home to recover then he fell and hit his head and needed a few stitches. Now back at home trying to recover so that is good. He turns 90 on Tuesday.   

Last week my son(8 months old) had a temperature because he is teething. Our daycare says 72 hours fever free if a temperature hits 100. Last week he came to work with me all week. Then we get an email saying there was a covid case at daycare and his room will be closed until next 2/3. Not sure how parents who both work handle the need for flexibility these days. Luckily for me my mother is able to care for him most days and I can bring him to work when necessary.