brought it home from the mother in law's over the weekend.
Wiring harness should arrive today, but before thats installed I need to fix the passenger footbox, the heater tray, and the trans tunnel that a previous owner cut out for fitting a ford kent.
That is a damn fine looking car right there.
JoeTR6
HalfDork
5/1/17 8:34 a.m.
I never thought I'd see that bonnet with paint on it. The rest of the car looks like it cleaned up nicely. It will be nice to see that thing driving around.
IT LOOKS SO HAPPY TO BE HOME
So, this is what galvanized junk looks like.
The heater box was previously removed, but shows just why it had to come OUT.
Look closely at this next image and you will see what has yet to come out. The corner of the footbox is more galvanized junk. I will be removing and replacing with fresh steel. The galvanized stuff is rather flimsy.
Current view of the interior:
I am still removing the rubberized undercoating. Been making progress on the drivers footbox. Almost have the outside side of it done.
Had about 45 min last night to devote to the car.
This should be the last of the dissassembly other than removing the last vestiges of the wiring harness.
After this, more work on cleaning the interior of the rubberized undercoating and prepping for welding and interior paint.
Need to figure out how far forward of the firewall the leading edge of the heater box should be. Anyone with a spridget able to get me that dimension?
Slowly trucking along.
Was goign to go to Carlisile on Saturday, but ended up taking the wife to urgent care instead. (caught some bug with a really sore throat/fever/etc, got meds and on the mend now)
Ended up going up on Sunday. Totally not worth the 3 hour each way drive. I really hope there were a lot more venders on Friday/Saturday, because DAMN. Probably not going to bother again.
I did get a spare radiator, headlight gaskets, and a bonnet emblem. I spent more at harbor freight on the way home in extra tools and stuff to proceed.
Last week my friend Ed gave me a few headlight bits as well as a fuel pump he had sitting around.
Was exhausted last night, but I fooled around for a bit and here is the result.
Probably wont get to work on it for about a week, but aside from finishing up the bonnet, the next work items are finishing removal of the rubber junk in the interior and cleaning it up. Then patching the inside panel on the passenger footwell.
The trans tunnel is waiting me figuring another issue out. By all accounts this drivetrain came out of a perfectly operable car. When i got it, the shifter was not installed, so I installed it for transport. It goes into 1-4 just fine and I can get it past the detent over towards the right, but it just wont go down into reverse. In talking to these folks at carlisile
http://www.quantumechanics.com/ they suspect that I might be attempting to use a smoothcase shifter in a ribcase turret (slightly different heights), so I have some measuring to do.
I want to get reverse figured out before I weld the tunnel in, as I can service the turret without removing the drivetrain if I wait, if its necessary.
If anyone has additional ideas on the trans side, PLEASE let me know.
JoeTR6
HalfDork
5/22/17 10:01 a.m.
John at Quantum Mechanics is a very knowledgable guy. I'd check what he said first. I can't remember whether Ed's other Sprite has a drivetrain, but I can take some measurements from that if you need them. I was considering going to Carlisle on Saturday to look for a few bits that I'm missing, but didn't. Yeah, going on Sunday isn't worth the drive unless you want to scavenge the last minute deals.
only a small photo update...
IT HAS A FACE!
I have neglected this thread, will need to get some pictures and update progress.
Currently in a race to finish, want the car to run before my wife gives birth (literally). Hopeful to make the car run for a June 30th autocross debut (it will not be primarily used for that)
Quick question for those with experience in such matters.
Spridget master cylinders. I am looking at 3 brands at 3 different price points. Want to hear experience based opnions. Which of the following should I get.
- Classic Gold at $69.99
- TRW/Lucas at $98.99
- AP braking at $229.99
This car has a single circuit braking system, so failure of the part means I am reliant on the handbrake and a prayer.
If you're going to spend that kind of money, why not upgrade to a dual circuit from Wilwood or something like that?
Because, that would be part of a larger upgrade package that would necessitate replacing pretty much all the front suspension parts to ditch the drums for discs...
I may eventually do that, but I am putting it off as a future upgrade.
I can get the dual master (clutch/brake single circuit) and bolt it in, bleed and go, or cut the car for a later pedal box, replace all the brake lines, replace the LCAs, kingpins, trunions, rear wheel cylinders, etc...
Wow, the master cylinders have gone down quite a bit in price. They used to be north of $400 about 15 years ago. If it were my car I would go with the AP cylinder, unless money was really tight, then I'd opt for the TRW/Lucas. The Classic Gold ones are the bottom of the barrel in terms of price and quality (at least in my experience withe CG products). And seeing as it's the brake master cylinder on a single line system, I wouldn't chance it with a cheap knock off.
Titan4
New Reader
4/30/18 11:47 a.m.
In reply to Apexcarver :
I haven't had Classic Gold master cylinders but their other stuff that I've had has been hit or miss quality from India/China. Some OK but some junk. I bought a TRW/Lucas master cylinder for my TR6. The cylinder was fine but the plastic reservoir on top was malformed and leaked. I ended up using my old, original reservoir on the TRW cylinder and that worked OK. I've had various AP brake parts on a couple of race cars and have never had an issue with AP stuff. So, in this case, I think the cost goes along with the quality and the chance that it'll be right the first time. How big a deal is it to you if it leaks all over and has to be fussed with or replaced?
Interior paint!
It looks so tiny next to the new DD and even the old DD.
NOHOME
UltimaDork
5/14/18 2:08 p.m.
Man, I keep forgetting how huge Miatas are!
Love Bugeyes, following this closely!
JoeTR6
HalfDork
5/16/18 6:33 a.m.
I hope you get this running before I leave in August. Have you thought about how to mount the baby seat?
Just remember, if the baby comes 1 week early I am skipping the autocross that is the planned debut!
I had a reality check that my older brother was premature. He was born at 32.5 weeks. My wife is 32 weeks.
If weather cooperates, I will be done with paint after one good evening. (need to do outside, too much overspray and fumage). Using Rustoleum appliance epoxy and rather like it. The spits going to be painted with the white if I ever get around to that project!
Progressing. Interior is painted. Hinge kit installed, leather buckles installed.
I had to put the drivers seat in. Its been YEARS since it was last installed. Vroom noises were made...
Did a test fitting of the carpet kit, it does NOT fit well. Seems to rely on LOTS and LOTS of glue. I am debating only using a few of the mats and leaving the rest out. Same for the MOSS panel kit. Feels like wasted money, but the more I think about it, the less I want to glue it in. A few select drop in mats seem the better part of valor.
As you can see in the interior pic, next up is wrestling the kracken, err, wiring harness. Poked at it with the diagram that came with it last night and had a hard time figuring out the routing.
this
is what I need, so hopefully next crack will have a lot less head scratching. (the other one was a lot less straightforward, better for what color goes to what component, horrible for, where does this bundle of wires go.)
Dash is in, half the dash is wired and working my way through the car.
Sweet! Digging on the Raydot, too
Neat project. Don't you love wiring? I'm actually starting to enjoy it. One circuit at a time, very methodical.
Update
no pictures as appearances havent changed much and I havent been taking time for pictures.
Car now has most of the wiring harness installed and fully functional hydraulics (though the drivers front didnt really want to bleed until I stomped the pedal and something broke loose.. might need a new wheel cylinder there.)
Hope is to debut the car at a June 30th autocross, heres whats left.
- install and wire electric fuel pump, filter, and complete lines to carbs
- ensure that water pump has sealant.
- install radiator and plumb coolant system
- plug wires / set ignition timing
- buy/install a battery
- Seat belt upper anchorages (shoulder belts, 3 pts)
- crawl into trunk and solder connections for turn signals (no trunklid, this is a contortionist feat)
- drop oil pan to get debris from broken dipstick holder thingy
- oil fills: motor, trans, rear
- finish connecting generator, horn, headlights
- set carbs and try for first start
Wifes OBGYN is now using terms like "Dilated" and "Effaced" Due date for baby is the 7th