At the sign of the cat...'69 Mercury Cougar convertible restomod

The Unisteer R&P should have been the easiest part of the job but it has stopped all forward progress right now.  A combination of a 50 year old car that had been in a front end collision plus installation instructions that could use some updates and the caveat that modifications may be required to allow proper fitment caused some issues.  All solvable with a phone, an internet connection, a credit card, and tools!

I removed the steering column to pull the old steering gear box then cut off the rag joint.

Once it was off the instructions said to drive the inner sleeve in to the outer sleeve which would be accepted by the collapsing mechanism in the column.  I wasn't OK with that.  Searching the net found me a guy who tore down the column, found a fastener and pulled the inner sleeve out to make the cut that allows the new bearing to be inserted so I took that path.

This partially occluded bolt had to be removed.  It was MINE!

Then the sleeve was cut and a bearing installed.

This attempted co-habitation stopped the relentless forward action

Damn, missed the opportunity for a middle finger in this shot.

Header clearance around the R&P, Zbar (OEM mechanical clutch actuation system), unit body and headers is a bear.  New Sanderson shorty headers should be in tomorrow which *SHOULD* fit.  Who knows however.  If they work I can get them in and then get the car to an exhaust shop for some custom adapters to my existing exhaust.  Fingers crossed!

Tonight I'll reinstall the column and the u-joints to button up steering connections.  Unisteer uses some BEEFY stainless steel u-joints in their kits!  I can then drop the car and run new front brake lines.  On top of sketchy drum brakes, I also had an severe blockage-OK, complete blockage-on one front brake line.  Again, 50 year old steel and rubber lines here. 

This car lived out west it's whole life and it shows.  These have been the ONLY frozen fasteners I've encountered in 3 years of working on this car.  When I put some heat in to the connection, the line blew off the fitting.  Check out the reduction in ID at the wheel cylinder end!

And while I'm posting brake pics for Angry's review rear drums were rebuilt in our atempt at Power Tour glory.  Gratuitous drum inner working shot.

Wheel cylinders, shoes, axle bearings and seals were replaced just after this reference pre-rebuild shot.  I HATE drum brakes.

Well, the Sanderson shorty headers arrived just before I left for PowerTour.  I got garage time yesterday and finished removing the Zbar (clutch linkage).  With that out of the way the driver side header slid right in to place.  I then reinstalled the zbar and mounted the R&P and snugged it in place for the first time ever.  So the 3 dimensional chess game continued with clutch, steering, and exhaust all trying to occupy the same space simultaneously.  I mounted the ujoint to the R&P and it wouldn't allow the steering shaft to move where it needed to be as it hit the header.  A hardware store run netted me some 1/2" spacers and I jacked up the engine and did a test fit.  Close but no cigar!  McMaster Carr got some of my money today for some 1" AL spacers to lft the engine which will give me the steering system clearance and alignment I need.  They will be here tomorrow so I can lock the motor back down.  Of course lifting the engine 1" caused me concern for air filter clearance issues so I removed the 1" phenolic spacer I installed last summer when troubleshooting my electrical issues.  Removing that meant the extended studs I bought were then too long for throttle body.  Found another set of studs, backed out extended and replaced with shorter version, used my last new gasket and locked down the TB.  Checked hood clearance and will be fine with lifting the motor.  I finished up the steering column mods (slug inserted in hollow Ford steering shaft and ujoint fitted, drilled shaft for roll pin and installed it, and locked in set screw with Nylock nut) and will stab it back in tonight to finish mounting steering components.  I need to tidy up some wiring before column goes back in as well as paint the column where all the paint was scratched off the top (Sun tach mount???). 

I also don't like the ride height the Flexform composite springs have right now.  I called them and can flip the eyes which will bring it down some.  Cougar's use a rubber lined leaf spring mount that Mustang's don't this acts like a ~ 1" lowering block when mounted.  Spring maker advised I don't use that and just trap spring between the spring pads on the axle housing and the lower spring plate as I installed them.  I see some lowering blocks in my future but want to put some miles on the car and let all the things settle in.  I don't expect the composite leaf springs to settle like a steel spring however.  Picture dump coming later.

Too bad you weren't able to get this to all come together in time for Power Tour, but you're making solid progress.  Did you get the message with my email?  I would expect that you've had several things to catch up on following HRPT.

In reply to wawazat :

Sorry I missed the drum shot when you posted it.  From the adjuster orientation I take it that’s the right rear?  Hard to tell but it looks like you might have the shoes reversed.  The shorter lining arcs go in the forward position, and the longer lining arcs go in the rearward position.

raising the engine 1”?  What does that do to trans mount and driveshaft u-joint angles?

I did get it Brian.  I was looking at them this morning trying to figure out how to get you all of them in hi res.  

Angry-the pic is how they were in place when we pulled the drums. We cleaned things up before disassembled them and took the picture.  Reversed shoes on the rear combined with the plugged line on passenger side front drum explained why the brakes were soooo awful.  

Its a concern for sure but I can’t get the 10 lbs of stuff in the 5 lb space otherwise.  I could have bashed in header for clearance but that just sits wrong with me.  I got the old driveshaft ujoints swapped out and can play with transmission mount and rear end and leaf springs if necessary.  

Back at it in attempting to get the thing back on the road soon.  I sourced a aluminum MC and Wilwood proportioning valve then struggled with mounting and plumbing things.  Finally got that sorted last night.  Headers done.  Steering column in.  Clutch linkage done.  Tonight is gravity bleed and finish MC linkage to pedal.  I can then fill PS system and go thru and check all fasteners before towing it to shop for exhaust work.  Soon.   

In reply to wawazat :

I need to do the wilwood mc swap. Not looking forward to it. Looks like your moving right along!

Hey Brent I would suggest looking at the Baer MC.  They have improved on the Wilwood design with tool free chamber access and a slick proportioning valve attached to the MC body.  The one I used was recommended by my brake system supplier and was a fraction of the cost of the Wilwood and Baer but by the time I bought lines and the proportioning valve it was getting up there in price.  

Exhaust is done and shop fired it up.  I asked them to bleed brakes which they did but they don’t hold pressure.  

Angry-what are typical brake system hydraulic pressure ranges?   I know that’s a loaded question without more details but I would like to know what range I’m dealing with.  My system is a 1” bore master cylinder, no power booster with front 4 piston front calipers and rear drums at this time.   I’m using SS braided flex hose from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve then hard lines (Cu Ni) to the flex hoses at the calipers/wheel cylinders.  

In reply to wawazat :

In the OE world, systems are *generally* sized to pull max decel (limited by tire-road interface but ~1.0g) between 1000 - 1500 psi

Does “didn’t hold pressure” mean there’s an external leak?  Or do you have a bad master cylinder?

In reply to AngryCorvair :

Thanks for the pressure range Patrick. 

They got a hard pedal that sank as it was depressed.  No leaks noted but one guy was trying to do the job.   Tomorrow they’ll have two guys on it.  I’m disappointed that I couldn’t do it myself but am dying to get the car back on the road.  I have learned a lot about brake systems, plumbing (flaring lines, bending tubing, component mounting, etc) so that’s good.  

Got the car back and have put some miles on it.  Brake pedal is still a bit wonky.  First touch is hard but travel is longer than second step which is also hard.  I'm putting some miles on it and will bleed it again next week.

Some pics.

Spare tire set-up

Wool backed leather pad I found online.  Located center and punched hole.  Using a piece of high-density rubber matt underneath it and against the wheel surface.

Master cylinder and proportioning valve hiding in the darkness.

just in time for woodward!

make sure rear shoes are adjusted so they just barely drag.   you'd be surprised how much pedal travel can be eaten up by drums with too much clearance.   it's a free fix, if that's the problem, and people get it wrong all the time.   "new shoes = adjusters at minimum length" is not the answer.  always set them so they just barely drag.

Really great choice in wheels!

Thanks for the tip Patrick. My dad and I didn’t adjust them after we installed the new shoes from what I recall.  I’ll give the adjusters a tweak and see if that changes things for me. 

Thanks OjaiM5!  I’ve always loved that wheel style and that they’re different from all the Torq Thrust wheels and Magnum 500’s people swap for their steelies and hub caps.  

In reply to wawazat :

How do you like the feel of the car after all the suspension upgrades?  and how did the Steel-It on the rear housing work out?

Suspension, steering, and brakes are AMAZING Brian!   Still require some tweaking as the front tires during tight turns just clip the lower front fenders.  Lifting the engine then lowering the clutch linkage needs just a bit more clearance on the steering shaft.  I’m tweaking that in the morning and adjusting the rear drums as well.   The front tire clearance can be fixed with the adjustability built in to the kit but requires R&R then another alignment.  No time for that with events tomorrow night, Saturday, and the Ford show at Ford HQ Sunday.  Next week project.  

The dramatically increased spring rates front and rear and really well controlled by the Bilstein shocks.  I loaded the car up with kids Tuesday night and where I would previously bottom out HARD on the stops now was not an issue and well controlled.   Car has much less body motion than before and just feels phenomenal.  I only wish I had it for the PowerTour as the mountain legs would have been awesome in the old cat.  Next year for sure! 

The Steel-It was a no go unfortunately.  I would have had to buy a gallon to do the job and the shop I had quote the paint work was costly.   I had it powder coated instead for fraction of the cost.  

Thanks for the pro-tip Patrick!  That did the trick-solid pedal in the same spot every time I hit it.  

In reply to wawazat :

#winning

Did the Berkley Cruise tonight with my family.  Dad drove his ‘63 Corvette he’s been working on for many years.  Dinner at Crispelli’s first.  Ray’s Ice Cream afterwards.   My youngest son rode with my dad and they had a great time together!   I had my Mom, my Aunt, and my oldest  son with me.  Great weather and a great evening!   Now back out for watching others shenanigans!   Mustang Alley at 9:00am tomorrow then see where wind blows us   Big Ford show at Dearborn HQ Sunday.  

Out and about today in Woodward.  Cars EVERYWHERE FOR MILES!   It still blows my mind that so many cars and people come out for this cruise.  Approximately 12 miles each way along the route and people line up for much of the route, many places 4 rows deep.  I got hot but the car ran well.  I saw 203F on the gauge while idling along for over almost two miles with 86F ambient temps and full sun.   No problemo!