From what I've read on here, if you need a new plastic tank radiator, just forget about it and buy the ebay all aluminum "racing" unit. They may require some tweaking to fit, but they can be repaired and aren't prone to exploding.
From what I've read on here, if you need a new plastic tank radiator, just forget about it and buy the ebay all aluminum "racing" unit. They may require some tweaking to fit, but they can be repaired and aren't prone to exploding.
While rooting around under the hood replacing the radiator, electric fan, and fan clutch, I found the distributor cap cover:
I'm beginning to think the root cause of the "incident" was the cover coming loose. I'm running without the cover right now, but I'll probably see if the local Nissan dealer can get me another one. While I'm there, I'll see if I can get a replacement connector for the distributor wires. The old connector makes contact, but doesn't snap into place the way I'd like.
The new hotness:
I went with a OEM-like replacement. I like the stock look of my engine bay, and a shiny aluminum radiator might clash with the dirty plastic vibe I've got going on. I even managed to get all the factory shrouding back in place-- only a few broken plastic clips.
I miss my S13 dearly. Keep us updated on where you go with this thing.
With spring around the corner I'm thinking about getting my s13 ready for some autocrossing. Koni shocks are on sale at TireRack now so I'm about to order a set of yellows. I could use some experienced advice on springs and spring rate.
I'm 80% sure I'll order a Ground Control coilover conversion kit soon. I'm just undecided on the spring rates to ask for. Since they have a place for "intended usage" on the website, I may just describe the usage and planned upgrades and see what they recommend. Any guidance you can give on spring rates for an occasional autocross car with no real illusions on getting FTD?
15% of the time I think of going with simple lowering springs like Eibach Pro-Kits (though they seem to be hard to find). A slight drop in ride height with a slightly higher rate is appealing for my usage. Paired with a new sway bar or two, I should have a nice increase in handling without sacrificing drivability-- my closest venue is a 2 hour drive away.
5% of the time I think of just replacing the shocks and running the stock springs for a season. One upgrade at a time will allow me to know which made the biggest difference and avoid over-prepping the car. Incidentally, I think I will run in the Street Touring class.
Well depending on what other mods you can just put in konis on stock springs in still be in stock class. Then when your more comfortable with the car and which class you want to be in you can make a better informed decision on springs. Btw dont pick lowering springs for comfort unless your 80 with a hernia a good coilover setup such as the koni/ground control will be comfortable as well. Take it from me my car should be teeth jarring by the rates but its more comfortable than stock personally.
I applaud you for owing a 240sx and not ruining it with drift and jdm fanboy crap
Even with keeping the stock springs, I would be in Street Touring because of my upgraded front suspension bushings. I'm okay with that because the upgrades I have in mind for the next few years all fit within the Street Touring allowances.
Your car seems to come with a coilover suspension setup from the factory, so you can just get lowering springs for it. I would wait to get springs for when you have raced enough to know the ballpark spring rate you need. Remember, you're racing for fun; take advantage of that and don't worry about buying boxes of go-fast parts when you're not sure with what you need. 
Edit: You can get coilovers for your car for your Street Touring class since your car came with coilovers from the factory.
Earlier today I thought I was going to finish up installing a Koni Sport insert into one side of my front suspension (with the other half planned for tomorrow). Instead, I have a few questions I hope someone will be able to answer. The instructions in the Koni box are very incomplete and the official instructions & video http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf don't address these:
(1) With the Koni insert placed into the stock housing and the spring compressed and assembled, I'm supposed to torque the piston locknut to about 50 ft-lbs. When I get to 20 ft-lbs, something gives and the piston rotates suddenly. I thought it was the insert rotating in the housing, but it doesn't seem to have moved. I did notice the adjusting pin rotate though (the one that you're supposed to turn to adjust the damping rate.) Did I assemble something wrong? Is there something I should be holding steady as I torque the locknut?
(2) The Koni insert came with a white plastic washer in the box. The inner opening is sized to slide over the piston and the outer diameter is about the size of a standard strut bellow/dust boot. Should this washer go over the piston and rest inside the strut bellow when assembled? If not there, where is is supposed to go? What does it do? It's not mentioned or shown in the official instructions I linked above.
(3) The stock piston had a "lock washer" at the top that wedged against the piston with an ear that fit into a hole in the upper spring mount. I removed this lock washer after I removed the stock piston locknut. The Koni piston doesn't seem to have a smooth part at the end of the piston where this lock washer could grab, so I left it off. Is this washer just to help assembly in the factory or is it critical to proper (and safe) operation?
Thanks for any educated opinions you can share. I promise I'll post some pictures once I get these issues straightened out.
Answers to the questions above:
(1) I did assemble things correctly, I just didn't have the proper tools. Torquing the piston locknut requires a $20 pass-through socket set and careful use of a 1/4" drive extension that just barely fits (if you care about following the torque spec) OR using an impact gun and crossing your fingers.
(2) After looking at pictures of Koni inserts online, the mystery white plastic washer does go over the piston and reset against the shock body, just inside the strut bellow. I guess it's to keep out dirt, but it's not a very close seal.
(3) The lock washer certainly won't fit over the end of the piston, so I left this part off.
I'll leave these here as a guide for anyone else interested in Koni yellow inserts for the front suspension of an S13 240SX. First, watch Koni's own guide video: Koni strut insert video. Make sure you have the tools listed (plus a spring compressor-- not shown) and can safely remove the strut from the vehicle. I decided to replace the strut mount and strut boot/dust cover with new KYB parts. You could reuse the old ones if you were desperate.
Parts:
Koni 8641-1364SPORT (strut insert)
KYB SB103 (strut boot)
KYB SM5101 (strut mount)
Unusual tools:
Harbor Freight item #62305 (pass-through socket set)
8 mm hex socket
My frustrating repair for Fall/Winter is getting a new starter to work. Suggestions welcome.
After installing a new starter (remanufactured unit from RockAuto), my car still won't start. Troubleshooting points to an electrical wiring problem or maybe a faulty solenoid on the new unit (which seems unlikely). Some background-- at a late fall autocross, I had a click but no start. Jumper cables didn't help, but hitting the starter with a wrench while turning the key did work. I naturally ordered a new starter when I got home.
With the starter installed, I still had a click but no start. My troubleshooting tests use the following definitions: Starter is the big cylinder, solenoid is the small cylinder (both mounted together). The solenoid has two connections, the thick wire called Positive Cable (PC) and the thin wire called Start Terminal Lead (STL) by the documentation that came with the starter. The STL connects to the wiring harness by a quick-disconnect. The PC bolts directly to a post on the solenoid. The solenoid is wired directly to the starter by a very short but thick wire that I call the Inner Wire (IW). Everything is grounded through the case. Case to (-) shows continuity with resistance of 0.5 ohms.
Test #1: With key off and all cables intact (-) to (+) is 12.41 volts; (-) to (PC) is 12.41 volts; (-) to (STL harness side) is 0 volts; (-) to (IW) is 0 volts.
Test #2: With the key starting and all cables intact audible click from near the starter/solenoid, but the starter doesn't turn.
Test #3: With the key starting and the STL connector separated (-) to (STL harness side) is 11.75 volts.
Test #4. With the key off, using a jumper wire directly from (+) to (STL solenoid side) makes the starter turn like the car is about to start. Presumably the jumper wire delivered the full 12.41 volts.
The starter documentation suggests that the STL signal should be over 12.1 volts-- so Test #3 and Test #4 suggests a wiring problem between the battery and the STL connector. All the relays/fuses in the starting circuit look okay to me. Should I try new relays/fuses just in case?
Put your hand on the solenoid while someone tries to start it. I'd imagine you'd feel the click, but you should confirm it.
Sending the full signal to the solenoid with the resulting starter coming to life indicates a problem between the battery and the solenoid, as you guessed.
Check ignition - they can go bad.
as a fellow s13 driver, I hope to see this thing running again real soon!
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