So here goes another high pressure bad idea build. This was obtained from an SCCA club member as a disassembled roller. My CRX just went into a fit smoking like a coal train. So with divisional and national events looming in June, I've got a month to build a monster. And just for added pressure, it's a Subie swap in a 914 Porsche. Lets take a ride shall we?
Here is what I am starting with. A 1976 Porsche 914. All the original parts are here including the complete engine and trans. However, also included is a 2.5 RS Subaru engine and trans along with a nice engine cradle for the swap and some adaptor half shafts.
It's got huge wheel flares made from STEEL and bondo. You might be fooled into thinking that is should be restored and I am going to hack up a great car. Wrong. The floors were replaced so it's solid but it's got enough rust to go around. If you reside in New Hampshire or Michigan, it's probably better than you get but for Alabama, it's not a prime choice. Those flares just got to go. Time to get the wrenches out and start demo by removing anything we can to reduce weight and hiding places for dirt amd mud.
No name oddball shocks and lowering springs that hang loose when jacked up. Nice huh? Going away. Brakes are shot all around. The right rear caliper is attached with a zip tie to the e-brake cable. The Front struts have no resistance to bounce. Brake hoses? Yeah, cracked and soft. Ever pull a master cylinder on a 914? You simply must just once. Its tucked up under the front behind a tray against the steering rack. That's why a booster would be simply impossible.
Onward. The bumpers are 50 pounds each!!! (and not required for RX if not a facia style) So I have another cool plan for that but there goes 100 pounds fast.
This is a back side of one of those flares. Nice work? I learned something new. If you plan to add enough bondo, there is no need to grind down your welds right? Note the lack of any attempt to paint, coat or prevent rust on the back side. And weight? No big deal, It just makes the car lower for that killer "stance". Here's the "integral" front air dam.
OK, that's anough intro. Next up? SAWZALL happyness.
In for the ensuing insanity. Why not stay widebody with mudder meats under it?
Lots of Safari 911 Porsche builds but I do not remember a 914 build
There might be some fiberglass bumpers around ,
I have some door glass and rear window if you need them .
Step 2. Lets get physical. The interior is out. Most bolts are coming out without breaking off. Great news. The right window was broken out and the car has been outside for probably years, the door panels, carpet and such were thankfully removed before all that but the humidity played hell with the gauges and dash. Did I mention it came from Florida then Georgia? Getting the dash out requires removing almost everything under the frunk (front trunk) including the gas tank and a whole pile of defroster/heater gizmos to access the 4 small retaining nuts. Thus teh interior is full stripped along with the wiring harness. Lost of spare stuff gathering and weight is dropping.
Now for those pesky and fugly flares.
We have clearance Clarence!
More!
And that is just stopping where the flare started.
Looking Baha now!
Oh and there was buku bondo on that front air dam along with 2 (why?) layers of steel and screws. The edges were elded on steel rod.
OK, One more thing. I always despised the tiny engine access hood between the rear window and trunk lid. Fiero too. Impossible to get in there for real. This has a shallow trunk floor and is used to store the targa top. Well no more! It's time to get access. Think Pantera style. Now that's a lot better.
Yes, it's all planned but I can't reveal it all at once.
I LOVE IT
I like 914's. I like rallyx. and I love this!
Here is the engine as it came with the car. 2003 Legacy 2.5RS and 5 speed.
Its at Persad parts getting head gaskets checked, head studs, a timing kit, oil pickup mod and a Fidanza clutch and light flywheel. No big mods yet. With only Rally tires on dirt traction is limited anyway. The new harness is being fab'd by I-wire to be a stripped down stand-alone harness that only runs the engine. The trans is getting a Quaife and already has the center diff lock out kit installed when I got it.
Those half shafts? 1st real problem. They're wrong. 6 bolt outers fit a 914-6 and those are rare. Hubs are priced in bullion. that would also change the hubs to 5 lug (unlike the front) and the brake rotors and brakes . The 914-2.0 hubs are 4 bolt with 2 big roll pins and smaller O.D.
I'll have to fab new ones. More later on that.
Parts are ordered and arriving daily. Complete brakes from PMB. Misc parts fro Pelican and Auto Atlanta and as always many goodies from Summit. Next up? start going the other way. Assembly.
Questions answered.
Wide body? Rally tires don't come mush past 185 width. These flares were sized for like 335. Plus wide means more cone penalties.
I got a window already but thanks.
Bumpers? Light fiberglass is an option but I am thinking aluminum tube. Like a true 4x4. Mini aluminum cactus smasher anyone?
Jeebus that's a lot of fender clearance. How big of a tire are you planning on running?
Is this going to be at the June Rallycross national challenge thing in Ohio?
This is amazing!
Will the 4 cylinder outer CV joint fit the axle splines? easy button if yes, sucky if no.
The big push is to make Ohio but that's a really optomistic target. KC and Natioanls for sure.
I think the guy who did the flares was also a fan of mega-bell bottoms in the 70's.
Mixed Axle fab? Stay tuned.
84FSP said:In for the ensuing insanity. Why not stay widebody with mudder meats under it?
because narrower is better for rallycross, especially on some course that have narrow gates.. And 4x4 mud tires suck for rallycross.
RallyCaddy said:The big push is to make Ohio but that's a really optomistic target.
If not, come to the DC region two-day double the last weekend of June (in W.Va.). If you want to find out how the car will stack up against some of the fastest MR cars/drivers in the nation, this is a good place to do it (I'm trying to get Vaughn Micchie to come down for it as well with his 924S). Our MR field for that event should be something like 20 cars (M3s, swapped e30s, a 944, 2zzz-swapped MR2s, Miatas, etc, . Hell, our back-markers are a BR-Z and a boosted Miata ;) There are only two out-of-towners who have been here and won in MR, that I recall - one is a national champion (John England, from Ohio), and Vaughn, who was 2nd at nats last year. So it would be a good test event (and expect something like 20 70-90 second runs over two days) if you want to shake it down and see how it can do.
Also, I want to see a 914 in action.
Here is what the hot set up was for axles in the 1970s
Darsun 240 z , they move in and out so do not kill the CVs , well they have U joints .
We would weld a plate to the stub axle , cut it back on the lathe and drill the 4 bold holes. Same an the transaxle side
This was for Drag VWs with 200-300 HP and a Porsche 901 4 speed gearbox.
Update time. It's about stripped down now. With all the guts removed,cut or chopped away, it's time to start going the other way. First off, some time with the wire wheels and brushes in all the rusty areas followed by some POR makes it at least less crusty appearing.
Next, install the very first new parts. Socks and struts. Tie rod ends and new rotors. The new calipers are not here yet, but the brake hoses made it.
OK so one change is the wheels. Factory setup uses a very rare 4 on 130mm bolt circle with 15 inch tires. Not popular nor do I have any wheels like that except for the 4 that came on the car and one was bent. SO, I do have a huge pile of 14" with 4 on 100mm I used on the VW's, the CRX and the Celica. Combined with the investment in about 6 sets of tires (Tyres?) and the gearing advantage of 14" tires against the 15", I really want to try and use most of what I have and plan to get a set of 15" rally tires on 15 inch rims so I have the larger diameter option. Having a 100mm bolt circle opens up a lot more wheel options. This requires adaptors. The adaptors move the wheels out about an inch per side and that works reall well with the bodywork opened up. Plus stability.
These adaptors are billet aluminum so strength should not be a problem.
Another word on tire diameters. Depending on the course design, it often happens that the best gear falls right between 1st and 2nd for tighter courses. Being able to make a significant change in diameter allows for hitting that ideal RPM window. Another concern however when dropping wheel diameter is brake caliper clearance. I still have the old calipers so a quick check showed it to be fairly close, about 1/4" but very safe and so I can check that off the list. Here I am checking different wheels (VW and Miata) on the car.
Next up will be the engine cradle mounts and installing the seatbelts and race seat. Maybe more. We'll see how it goes.
Quife arrived. It's heading off to the tranny shop.
This is beautiful. Always wanted a 914.
Fantastic use of a 914. It's goint to rip!
Oh my! This looks fun!
RallyCaddy said:Update time. It's about stripped down now. With all the guts removed,cut or chopped away, it's time to start going the other way. First off, some time with the wire wheels and brushes in all the rusty areas followed by some POR makes it at least less crusty appearing.
Next, install the very first new parts. Socks and struts. Tie rod ends and new rotors. The new calipers are not here yet, but the brake hoses made it.
OK so one change is the wheels. Factory setup uses a very rare 4 on 130mm bolt circle with 15 inch tires. Not popular nor do I have any wheels like that except for the 4 that came on the car and one was bent. SO, I do have a huge pile of 14" with 4 on 100mm I used on the VW's, the CRX and the Celica. Combined with the investment in about 6 sets of tires (Tyres?) and the gearing advantage of 14" tires against the 15", I really want to try and use most of what I have and plan to get a set of 15" rally tires on 15 inch rims so I have the larger diameter option. Having a 100mm bolt circle opens up a lot more wheel options. This requires adaptors. The adaptors move the wheels out about an inch per side and that works reall well with the bodywork opened up. Plus stability.
These adaptors are billet aluminum so strength should not be a problem.
Another word on tire diameters. Depending on the course design, it often happens that the best gear falls right between 1st and 2nd for tighter courses. Being able to make a significant change in diameter allows for hitting that ideal RPM window. Another concern however when dropping wheel diameter is brake caliper clearance. I still have the old calipers so a quick check showed it to be fairly close, about 1/4" but very safe and so I can check that off the list. Here I am checking different wheels (VW and Miata) on the car.
Next up will be the engine cradle mounts and installing the seatbelts and race seat. Maybe more. We'll see how it goes.
Quife arrived. It's heading off to the tranny shop.
All flair concerns resolved now that it’s wearing snowflakes!
Love the MK1 wheels.
I believe a porsche 924 also had a 100mm / 4 bolt pattern
Oooops , I was wrong , they are 108mm ....., sorry
84FSP said:RallyCaddy said:Next up will be the engine cradle mounts and installing the seatbelts and race seat. Maybe more. We'll see how it goes.
Quife arrived. It's heading off to the tranny shop.
All flair concerns resolved now that it’s wearing snowflakes!
Agreed, I'm surprised at how good those wheels/tires look with that massive wheel arch.
californiamilleghia said:I believe a porsche 924 also had a 100mm / 4 bolt pattern
4x108
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