Manual steering as stated. I have had the problem you described in my Celica at AX as the pump volume could not keep up with a really long slalom. In a light RX car with all that slip and tire spin (FWD) effort is not as noticeable but large quick adjustments are required. If you ever watch WRC you wee them making 1/2 turn of the wheel adjustments like sawing on the wheel very rapidly. AX and RR racers think that is bad as smaller inputs make for less wheel scrub and loss of speed. This works when you have grippy tires and pavement. In dirt, the car will even respond to those small tweaks. It takes much more input just to get the car to respond on dirt/gravel and that is where this becomes a huge help. Coming out of a turn with oversteer and into another feature, you have to unwind very fast to avoid the dreaded pendulum effect. I suppose that drifters know just what I mean.
In reply to Knurled. :
Pete, what ratio quickener do you have? I've been considering adding a quickener to my unassisted steering and I'm not sure whether to play it safe at 1.5:1 or go all in at 2:1.
Body flex issues. The roof latches were always failing. Even wiring them in place did not work. While on the lift, I noticed that the right door opens easy but on the ground it requires a hard yank. Sure enough, the right frame rail is weak from rust. That's where the battery used to sit and I also found cracking in the door opening at the back. So the firewall and rear suspension areas are causing the body to flex. The cure? Braces of course. The removal of the trunk floor didn't help things so a strut bar was needed. Simple but it should do a lot of good. Top of shock ro top of shock.
Next the door openings. I added a bar from the seat belt shoulder mounting point down to the sill with an added plate.
Both sides of course. I could not go further forward with the base or else it would be super hard to get into the car at all.
Some bed liner for protection and it's done. I still have to replace the radiator and add splash shrouds but that should be the final detail.
In case you came here to see the dualies and figured they were just rolled up against another wheel set, well no. They are real and bolted together.
I would qualify those as wheel spacers 
Really, I do like that they are able to be removed and installed as a one piece assembly. If you are serious about running them, I can see someone protesting due to the wheels not being covered by the fenders. I am not near the rulebook right now but IIRC there's something in there about an attempt must be made to enclose the tires.
RallyCaddy said:
Can you share what brand that steering quickener is?
This is an incredible build and I've been following along for a while. I just realized you were at the Atlanta rallycross at AMS this past Fall. I was also there, but at the autocross instead on the same day. This year I'm switching over to the dirty side. If you plan to run more at AMS this year (and if they continue there), I'll look forward to meeting you and seeing the Porscharu in person!
OjaiM5
Reader
1/5/20 5:40 p.m.
Can you share what brand that steering quickener is?
I am going to say speedway. They usually anodize purp like that
I was out for a couple days so thus the delay.
Yes, that is a Speedway brand quickener. I have used several of these with no failures so it's a good unit.
As for the Atlanta RX program, I do plan to get over there this year at least once. Maybe more. Just waiting for the 2020 schedule from Christian to be posted up. Either this car or the CRX may appear. It depends on what is working best that weekend. Hope to see may there. We MAY do the Dixie 2 day event there this year if we can pull it off. Otherwise it has to be in FL at StLucie.
Porsharu update. A few more minor mods have been done. A support for the scoop so the decklid is more solid, a new Griffin radiator and a splash shroud for the radiator to prevent getting mud in it again.
It's ready for season 2. 1st race in Florida on Feb 22nd. Lets see if it survives the whole event.
It's back after a lot of issues. 2020 was a bad year. Porscharu went through 2 motors in a month just before nationals. Lots of axle issues as the snap rings kept coming off the axles. I finally WELDED the spiders to the axles. No more axle issues but then being able to make runs, old Rodney showed up. Emergency before nats so I got a brand NEW short black and oil pump direct from Subaru. 7 laps of practice at Hollytree and it too was knocking. I put it away in time out to consider it's sins.
Last winter, after some time to settle and get the CRX all fixed up and working, I yanked the motor and sent it off to Dirty Racing Products in Florida for a complete evaluation and repair. They deemed it all junk. New motor. So Saheed Persad (Persad Parts) yanked another EJ25 for me and off it went too. That motor is now being built bt DRP. Upgrading the oiling system WITH OEM oil cooler, larger pan, oil temp gauge and a bump in compression ratio. It's due back in a couple weeks hopefully in time for June Dixie/National event in TN.
NOW, in preparation. I am moving the radiator to the front. I was always fighting dirt at the back getting into the radiator and fans. Mud was a worse problem. So, this details the radiator move from back to front.
The radiator I had Grifffin custom make to fit happens to be perfect up front fit. However, the inlet and outlet sides are now reversed but small problem. First step cut some holes for air. The dimples at the bottom front work nice with a hole saw. Then larger openings on each side of the latch.
Next step add some screen. I use stainless steel screen from Mcmaster part #9481T13 it's 6x6 woven wire diameter 0.035". Works real well and 10-32 screws fit with a slight effort. Then I use fender washers on the back.
Now onto the hood. All that hot air need an out. A lot of people make holes in the fender wells but with Rallycross and mud, that's real bad idea. Nothing up front is water sensitive and the bulkhead at the back seals off (mostly) the passenger area. Thus a simple hole in the hood with screen is light and does the trick. I want to avoid the steffening ribs in the fiberglass hod and they offer a nice layout tool.
Using the light area as the opening, I measured back from the front to where the back of the fans would be. Starting there and laying it out with a nice big hole saw for the corners, I got a decent size hole. Keeping the dark gray edge allows room for the bolts and washers.
Then finish with a cut off wheel in the 4-12" grinder and smooth with a sanding drum in the drill.
---and some more screen like so:
Flip it over-
Re install it on the car.
Now to mount the radiator. First, the fans were pushers and not reversible so I had to get matching pullers and swap them out. Puller on the left, pusher on the right. The blades curve opposite. Simply reversing rotation would produce reduced flow with the wrong curve.
Rubber vibration isolators with dual studs work nice for mounting. The old aluminum angle brackets I had on it fit perfect. I even used the old holes.
pic was stubborn...
Now it get a bit troublesome. I lost some pictures but here's the deal. The hoses were all 1-1/2" diameter. I have to run tubes from the front to the back. Under the car is a NO-GO as it's a belly pan style car and it's a fact that they will get crushed on something (rallycross) at the worst time. So they must go thru the car. No passenger seat will ever be in this car so they go on the right side. I used a 2 inch hole saw and a lot of measuring to get the holes in the firewalls front and rear. On the front, they have to go up over the steering rack (more on that later) so A local muffler shop (Majic Muffler in Scottsboro - great guys) bent a set to my drawing. A pair with a 2-3/4 inch offset S near the front.
I had some elbows and curves from a header kit so these 90's came in handy.
These then needed the ends to have beads so the hoses stay on. The old internet provided a trick to make a tool out of a vise-grips.
It helps a lot to use the oxy torch to heat it while doing the bead.
At the point where the tubes rise up over the steering rack, the lower (suction) hose forms an air pocket. The upper hose continues a steady climb so no air pocket. Due to this, the air pocket has to have a bleeder to allow the pump to produce flow. I fabricated a bung from some 1" round stock and tapped it for 1/8 pipe. Then, using a drain petcock it will act as a bleeder.
On the other end of the suction line, the inlet for the water pump on the Subaru is on the left side of the car. These are on the right, so a 90 that fits close to the rear firewall is needed. Using one the parts from the header kit which has nice mandrel bends, I cut and welded this to the suction tube.
Of course all those welds require leak check. So some rubber expansion plugs will block the ends and a small regulator threaded into the bleeder port will let me do that. Set to about 18 PSI.
PINHOLE. That's why we check.
Once happy, paint them.
Now for the routing of everything. Through the front. These are correct side to side at the rear but because the radiator got turned around, the hoses swap sides up front Wait, you'll see.
And yes, the overflow bottle got remounted and the fan power wires were re-routed from the rear to the front.
Now inside the car these pass over the old seat mount / floor brace. No cutting that. This car is weak enough. This will also serve as a point for anchring the tubes.
And at the rear, you can see where that 90 fits in to get to the water pump inlet. Plans for the rear hoses will come to light later when the engine goes back in.
So now with the hard lines run to teh front and some measuring, I went to the "Zone" and searched the hose aisle for modify-able or usable hoses in 1-1/2 inch diameter. Smooth beats those spring universal types for flow. Some clamps, some tidying up (still need to vacuum the area) and the fromt looks like this:
Now using some rubber lined clamps and a spacer and some bolts, we have a mid support that also locks the tubes from sliding.
And some closed call foam insulation. This keeps the hot from heating the cold line and more important ME in the car in July. If this is not enough, I will add a cover over5 both lines.
Still have to remount the battery. But remember that bleeder? Here it is. C for closed and O for open.
Well that's it till the motor comes in. The Exhaust is going to be wicked, just wait for it.
So what did they speculate was causing the oiling issues? You wouldn't think the forces it would see are very different from the front of a Subaru and the engine is still oriented the same way?
Glad to see the build thread pop up again though, hopefully the new motor is the last.
adam525i - Well it's not conclusive but they said the last motor was destroyed by left over contamination in the swapped heads. If it were a vtec type, the actuator also holds oil. They claim that metal bits when a motor goes away get all through the oiling system and have to be completely cleaned out before reassembly or it's goodbye again right away.
The first motor showed oil pressure drops as the motor warms up that seemed excessive. I thought perhaps the oil was getting too hot. An oil temp gauge is going in this one with a larger oil pan. DRP noted that the motor had no factory oil cooler. Non-turbos did not always get one. It is being added but also warms the oil on start with coolant. This reminded me that I do not usually get time for proper warm up because I am working setup, timing, drivers meeting, operations, safety, course and the whole show. When it comes time for me to make my runs, the car is dead cold. That probably has been the worst problem. Not ever again. Warm up is mandatory to keep my motor. This could also be why my CRX motors went away.
I still have doubts about contamination because the engine has an oil filter. What is the purpose of a filter but to remove and trap these bits before they re-enter the oiling system? I will be getting break in procedures from DRP. Being a race only , not street legal car, you cannot put 500 or 1000 miles on it before racing. I sure hope that with proper care this high $ motor stays intact.
Lookin good! Do you still have the VW truck? That thing was sweet when I saw it at the Sebring event a few years ago.
Lof8 - The VW is long gone. It was for sale but no takers and it was parted out. All long gone.
Cold oil bypasses the filter. Just sayin'.
Point taken. Thanks for the reminder.
