Barnfind Buggy Build

A thread to document my progress on the buggy I recently picked up. It's a 1970 Beetle chassis. 
 

It had been sitting for several years, so to start, a fuel and brake system overhaul are in order. I'm digging how cheap air cooled parts are! 

Started by draining the tank. Someone had put a nifty drain valve in the line right off the tank! 
broke it open with a pair of pliers, and proceeded to drain 2-3 gallons of Amber colored stinky fuel. When I went to close the tap after draining it... I couldn't get it back together. I'm assuming it wasn't supposed to come all the way out? Anyways, just removed it all together. It served its purpose.

Moving to the rear, I removed the fuel pump:

 Carburetor (pic28) 

and crusty filter

In preparation for new parts. They're all so tiny! My 450 ATV had a bigger carb (and made more power, lol.)

Next I turned my attention to the ignition system. 
Installed and set new points (been a while!) and put on a new rotor. Put in new plugs. 

Went to install the condenser, and noticed it was different. After running the engine number, it appears this is actually a 61-65 40hp 1200 instead of the single port 1600 the chassis would've come with (sad trombone.) 

Oh well... at least all the other parts fit.

Also redoing the brakes before I hit the road with it. All new parts are in order. The master cylinder I have coming is going to be wrong though... ordered it for the chassis, and it appears this one has an earlier single circuit master cylinder in it. I assume for space reasons. I'll see how much work it'd be to get the dual circuit one to work with remote reservoirs.

Removed the wheel adapters (VW 4 bolt to GM 5 bolt) to remove the drums, and snapped one stud, and bent 2 more. D'oh! 

I also looked at some electrical... none of the lights work except the brake lights. Traced it to a bad headlight switch. It has power going in, but nothing out. If I jump it, all the lights work. So, one more thing to order!

Called it a day after that. Just waiting on parts now... 

 

Cool!

Way into these. Once I have more space I wanna find one. 

Saron81 said:

Moving to the rear, I removed the fuel pump:

 

You can get rebuild kits for that fuel pump. It's pretty easy, I've done a couple. And it will probably last longer than the new ones available.

Post a picture of where the manifold mounts to the head ,  then I can tell you if its a 1200 or larger

the master is from a  pre-1966 VW bus , the 1970 one will be dual circuit and safer...... 

If it is indeed a 1200, that motor is actually worth more than the 1600 you were hoping for.

californiamilleghia said:

Post a picture of where the manifold mounts to the head ,  then I can tell you if its a 1200 or larger

the master is from a  pre-1966 VW bus , the 1970 one will be dual circuit and safer...... 

40 hp , 77 mm pistons unless it has the 83mm big bore kit in it.....

californiamilleghia said:

40 hp , 77 mm pistons unless it has the 83mm big bore kit in it.....

Please teach me how you were able to determine that.

The manifold is flat where it bolts to the head,

On a single port 1300-1500-1600 the manifold tubing is larger , it goes in the intake port at an angle ,  and the end of the intake manifold is 2 pieces , the tube itself and the hold down "clamp" that has 2 opposing  holes for the studs to go thru.....

They both use 10mm bolts with 6 mm thread......

The End

In reply to californiamilleghia :

Thanks! 
Still super new to air cooled, and appreciate the info. 

Started digging into the brakes last night... found this in the first drum I removed. Thankfully the inhabitants are long gone, lol. 

Clean it up , save the brake shoes , just sand them , the material is so much better than what you get today, 

check the rubber hoses and make sure they are not cracked , 

check the line from the master cylinder to the back brakes , just make sure its not rusted out , 

Get the VW "idiots" book , its a fun read  and will teach you about VWs......

I have slightly over a dozen vw engines in various states of disassembly if you end up needing parts.  

In reply to californiamilleghia :

I'd be careful sanding brake shoes that might be old enough to have asbestos in them.

californiamilleghia said:

Get the VW "idiots" book , its a fun read  and will teach you about VWs......

+1. The best , most informative manual ever written. One of the greatest books ever written, IMHO

Thanks for the advice guys. 
Have new shoes, so I'm going to use them. Started on the brakes last night... will update tonight with pics. 
I bought this book, but will order the idiots manual too! 

Definitely try and get the dual master to fit if you can. Also while you are in there add a brake bias valve you will need it in a buggy. 

That thing looks really clean. Just rebuild the pump and get a kit that works with ETOH gas just in case. The gaskets seem better in those. 

Cannot tell if that is a 009 distributor or not but I find them to be 100% total junk. Find a OEM one and have it rebuilt it will run way better. 

ALSO I am highly jelly of the condition of this thing. Not sure what you paid but that is a clean buggy and I love it. 

Now you got me hunting for one. 

BoxheadTim said:

In reply to californiamilleghia :

I'd be careful sanding brake shoes that might be old enough to have asbestos in them.

QFT

The book you have is very good , its a copy of the VW factory manual , 

the Idiot book is just more "fun" telling you ways to do things without a full shop and on the side of the road !

Took the brakes down completely, and repainted the backing plates. The adjusters were all frozen. New wheel cylinders and brake hoses installed.

Made this to clean out the adjuster bores. A Harbor Freight wire wheel bit trimmed up to fit in the holes:

Worked well!

All new shoes and hardware. Adjusters cleaned and lubed. New bearings and seals installed in new drums.

And all bolted back together with wheel adapters. 

New tires installed:

Front all done!

Also finished up the ignition system:

Waiting on fuel system parts now.

Rear brakes are next...

wearymicrobe said:

Cannot tell if that is a 009 distributor or not but I find them to be 100% total junk. Find a OEM one and have it rebuilt it will run way better.

After trying a few different dizzys on my 1600, then 1641, I found that the 009 always worked. The 034 and 010 seem to be well loved by the community but seemed to require more fiddling in my experience.

It is a 009. I'll see how it runs, but appreciate the input! 
 

I finished the rear brakes, same as the front. Put it down on the wheels... bled the brakes several times, but can not get a pedal. It's dry everywhere, so I'm assuming master cylinder. I want to put the dual circuit one on, but that's a much easier project when the body's off, so I'll probably save that for this winter. I'll order what's on there to get back on the road ASAP. 
I did get my tags this week!
 

I did get my new carb too. Put it on, and it started almost instantly right out of the box. 
I'll fine tune it when I can actually drive it. I was really hoping that was going to be this weekend, but it's not to be.... 

Got the new master cylinder today, and installed it after work. 
 

First test drive!!!!!! 
Took both daughters out for a ride around the neighborhood. Needs some small adjustments, but it's so cool! 
Picture by my 11 year old: :)