Seeing these X1/9 projects makes me want to buy one myself and do my own K swap. I would do it totally different from the MWB kit. I designed those for customers who were not fabricators. There is a cleaner, simpler way to do it, but I was never allowed to.
In reply to GasTungstenArc :
If you have the facility to invert the chassis for rust repair I will have a non-rolling chassis available for your use, you take it when I am ready to dispose (soonish) and it is yours. Some suspension pieces also available but not struts yet.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to GasTungstenArc :
If you have the facility to invert the chassis for rust repair I will have a non-rolling chassis available for your use, you take it when I am ready to dispose (soonish) and it is yours. Some suspension pieces also available but not struts yet.
If I might look a gift horse in the mouth, how bad is the rust, and what is the car lacking? In my situation, it is better to pay for a car that is complete than to get something free that requires expensive parts hunting.
What it will be for sure missing is the drive train. I am sticking with Lampredi for simplicity. Initially it will be missing the struts. They are leaking Konis which I intend to rebuild for my new car as soon as possible. New car's fresh looking KYBs and short springs will then be sold off. Interior is rough but can be a complete kit. PM me for more detail.
GasTungstenArc said:Seeing these X1/9 projects makes me want to buy one myself and do my own K swap. I would do it totally different from the MWB kit. I designed those for customers who were not fabricators. There is a cleaner, simpler way to do it, but I was never allowed to.
Every time I think I get myself convinced I'm going to hold off on a k-swap, you go and say something like this. haha.
As much as I'd be interested in watching your build, if you don't want to buy one you can always k-swap mine! 
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:GasTungstenArc said:Seeing these X1/9 projects makes me want to buy one myself and do my own K swap. I would do it totally different from the MWB kit. I designed those for customers who were not fabricators. There is a cleaner, simpler way to do it, but I was never allowed to.
Every time I think I get myself convinced I'm going to hold off on a k-swap, you go and say something like this. haha.
As much as I'd be interested in watching your build, if you don't want to buy one you can always k-swap mine!
That service is available. My non-compete and NDA are long expired.
Okay, we need to have a talk sometime soon.......
What the available shell most needs is rust repair on the inner right side rocker panel/sill structure. The right rear suspension mounts were repaired previously, photo documented. The triple layer "window" in all 4 strut towers is fully blossomed into needing repair. Pretty good around the windshield. Dent in the nose.
GasTungstenArc said:Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:GasTungstenArc said:Seeing these X1/9 projects makes me want to buy one myself and do my own K swap. I would do it totally different from the MWB kit. I designed those for customers who were not fabricators. There is a cleaner, simpler way to do it, but I was never allowed to.
Every time I think I get myself convinced I'm going to hold off on a k-swap, you go and say something like this. haha.
As much as I'd be interested in watching your build, if you don't want to buy one you can always k-swap mine!
That service is available. My non-compete and NDA are long expired.
GTA, I'd like in on this conversation too. I can fab.
Mezzanine said:GasTungstenArc said:Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:GasTungstenArc said:Seeing these X1/9 projects makes me want to buy one myself and do my own K swap. I would do it totally different from the MWB kit. I designed those for customers who were not fabricators. There is a cleaner, simpler way to do it, but I was never allowed to.
Every time I think I get myself convinced I'm going to hold off on a k-swap, you go and say something like this. haha.
As much as I'd be interested in watching your build, if you don't want to buy one you can always k-swap mine!
That service is available. My non-compete and NDA are long expired.
GTA, I'd like in on this conversation too. I can fab.
I appreciate the interest from you and others. I don't want to give a detailed description because I do have some people interested in paying me to do a swap and I don't want people's home-built cars to look too much like what I would build for them.
So, this will have to suffice: mine would be a unibody solution with no subframe or saddle. I designed the MWB kit to be easy to install, to use existing datums on the car to locate everything, and to allow for variances from car to car (on the X, there is more variance than you might think; the rear control arms have shims to set their positions right.) I don't need the datums because I can locate everything myself. For those interested, MWB does offer the shift linkage that I built for the kit (I can build those too,) so that can save you some head scratching.
Apart from the fact that it can be done better, I recommend against buying the kit. This is not me tooting my horn as a welder-fabricator, but the welds in the current kits are not up to the standard that I held. I have seen the pictures and have seen them in person. Some welds are visibly cold and some are visibly overheated. The person who took over when I left was not a welder at all and is learning on the job.
Yikes about the quality control on current kits.
I planned a swap in my head that aligned with what you suggest. Buy their shifter and axles, fab the rest myself without the subframe. I'll let Turner get back to their thread now. /threadhijack
The thread "All Things X1-9"
. I spent this morning working on the buck for the tow loop covers. I have enough material in hand to make them in Carbon fiber
More on that later. I have from 3:30PM today through 6:30AM Monday with a shop to myself. I will be posting a photo run through some time Monday. Air dam and cosmetics to the fore.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I cant wait to see what you come up with!!
Mezzanine said:Yikes about the quality control on current kits.
I planned a swap in my head that aligned with what you suggest. Buy their shifter and axles, fab the rest myself without the subframe. I'll let Turner get back to their thread now. /threadhijack
He's a basically good kid. He's just inexperienced/untrained/unskilled as a welder. I was beginning to give him some basic lessons before I left for other work, but he wasn't the best listener/repeater of what I showed him. He'll figure it out. He's just going to figure it out over the coming years on $4000 K swap kits and $40,000 customer cars.
The axles come from Moser in Indiana, and they ought to be able to make you a set directly unless MWB has that locked up. I would caution you, though, that if the decisions you make about engine location are just 1/2" off from where I put the engine when I developed the kit, the axles might not work.
Zoiks, I want an X now. I have all these ideas swirling around in my head, plus a T3/4 that would work great on a K20, plus the laser cut parts to make a shift linkage, plus access to a clean roller for $2k.
You people have me teetering on the edge of buying an X. It really isn't the wisest idea, and it would be the end of my plans to buy a C3 Corvette, but I'm really wanting an X of my own. Aahhh!!
We are known as enablers, here is an inexpensive one..... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/715141726592868/
In reply to GasTungstenArc :
The one listed by DHerr looks superb for the price Do It! Cool wheels and a pretty decent interior too.
Just bear in mind that ugly paint is 1000X better than rusted out bodywork. "Ugly Paint = 1000X > Rust" needs to go on this car until I can find a spray booth. Photo is self etching prime on the areas where bare metal was uncovered. Sides and tail needed it too. All paint work stops at the potential upper limit of the as yet uncompleted splitter.
If you are not to picky on color, check what Summit racing has for single stage paint. They have a fair selection, but don't mix to a paint code. Fair price, and you can buy a quart a time. That is what I used, I think next time I will have near perfect results, each time I get a little better.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
I can do a beautiful job with spray equipment if I have the facility. At the moment I do not. I did a full re-spray on a Lotus Elise last year in a temporary booth behind my customer's house. I can not spray slow curing paint at my home shop. This car was already de-valued by a PO's plasti dip job and subsequent removal attempts. Preserve first, the next care taker can beautify if they wish. I just want to drive it, now, while I am still young enough to enjoy it. The color choice was made a while ago, see previous posts.
TurnerX19 said:Just bear in mind that ugly paint is 1000X better than rusted out bodywork.
Always true. I would always pay more (how much more depends on factors) to start with a solid car. I would rather get into the meat of the project than spend months goofing around with rust repair. If and when I buy an X, it'll be mostly solid. And, unlike my last project, I will make it run and drive before I try to make the body pretty.
And so, we get to ugly paint. The foam rollers suck. If you roll it out thin enough to prevent runs on anything remotely vertical, it gets saturated with air bubbles, some pop before cure, some don't. Looks better outside, and far back.
I got some considerable way forward on the air dam as well, side "whiskers" shown in a series from CAD to near ready to fit.
Centeer panel in not final configuration at the present time, although advanced from the above photo.
You're moving fast Turner! Looks great
The only way to paint the engine cover, and praise be to the mighty air riveter please.
Theese pieces all came out far better using a brush and a foam pad, as dictated by their design.
That looks amazing from here!
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