I hosed all the bare metal with self-etch, and then brushed on a coat of matte black tractor paint a couple days ago. Today I went after final assembly of the rear suspension.
- TA cross-member bolted in
- Front TA mounts drilled thru the diff ears
- Pinion angle set
- Lock down all the hardware
Next was cycling the suspension to check for interference. Everything looks good at full bump.
Then, I took another look at the lower control arm angle. It has been wrong since I lowered the car and I had planned on getting a set of brackets that attach to the axle for correcting the angle. Adding the PHB in the mix however, meant that type of bracket would require heavy re-engineering of the PHB axle mount. This was not enticing.
At the chassis end of the LCAs, there is a large gap between the arm and the body and plenty of drill access without exhaust on the car, so I decided on raising the pick-up point at the chassis end to make the correction.
I also took the opportunity to cheat the mounting hole rearward a touch, making up some of the length difference when using Mustang control arms.
That's a pretty cool modification!
I wouldn't have realized there was room to move that point. Of course, that bolt isn't one of my favorite ones to get to so I haven't spent time analyzing it ;)
Can't wait to see the TSW's from Seth on this......currently sitting in my grosh awaiting the trip to G'ville with Curtis's bonneville in tow. Had to jump around between this and "JAM" to get this point ...well done so far. Back to the top!!!!
In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :
You found me. 
Those wheels are not likely to end up on this project, but big thanks to you for picking them up and hauling them to Gainesville!
Yes they may be a tad wide ,but I think the pattern works on BBird......just one side ......wink
Taking advantage of the holiday weekend. I reorganized the shop, moved out a pile of parts that do not belong to any the three projects currently inhabiting the building, picked up a bunch of parts strewn about the floor and put them on the freshly cleared shelves, then pulled the MGM out from under the lift so I could get to work!
I began by topping up the battery and plugging in the OBD scan tool to confirm to the best of my ability that there are no issues on my end preventing the car from running. The start-up tune needs another tweak; not looking good for driving it this year...
Next up, I wired in the VSS recalibration box so I can work on exhaust without getting in my own way. And then, I started that exhaust stuff
Since there is no longer room for a passenger side tailpipe with the new rear suspension I have settled for running a 3" single on the left. 2.5" from the headers to the merge. 3" from the merge, out the back. Everything from the headers to the muffler is tacked up. Hoping that I can get the tailpipe and hangers configured before the weekend is over.
Bluebird runs! Of course INDOT has covered all the roads with salt so no test drives for a bit, but still BEST CHRISTMAS EVAR!!!!
11GTCS
HalfDork
12/24/20 4:51 p.m.
In reply to gumby (Forum Supporter) :
Awesome, congratulations. This is how these cars should have been from the factory!
What! It wasn't running 24 hours before! Niiice
The upvote count schwings when a Bluebird gets its wings! Merry Christmas everybody!
*Makes car run at Christmas time*
"Ok, I can have these loose ends tied off before the roads are clear and the weather turns nice!"
*Ignores car until spring break*
Yeah. So a couple weekends ago I got back on finishing this car.
- weld up the exhaust and build a tailpipe
- nut&bolt entire car
- top off fluids
- alignment
- reinstall EEC and misc trim panels in the interior
- TEST DRIVE!
After chasing an air pocket out of the cooling system, all subsequent drives have been positive. Ride is good, suspension feels great, engine is running well, no leaks, etc.
Unfortunately, nixing the dual exhaust in favor of keeping the new PHB meant I had to give up the x-pipe. An x-pipe is what makes the modular exhaust note tolerable to my ears. Without it, and without cats, they bark and snarl in obnoxious fashion and I was hating that my beautiful, personal sports coupe sounded like some punk's ragged out Mustang or straight piped F150.
I fixed that today by cramming 20" of glasspack in the space where I had previously fitted the tailpipe.
So. Much. Better.
Time to schedule a dyno appointment and get the tune dialed in.
Get your guesses in.
Can we triple the power of the old 3.8?
TL;DR powertrain review:
Stock 4.6 4v longblock from a mkviii, long tube headers, 2.5" y-pipe to 3" single exhaust, CAI, Cobra intake manifold. T45, 4.10's in an 8.8
I have no idea how much power it will make, but I'm rooting for 300+.
Whatever power it makes...it's going to look great putting it to use ;)
No guesses. Looking fwd to finding out. The Butt Dyno is gonna love it!
11GTCS
HalfDork
5/15/21 7:10 p.m.
My completely uneducated guess is 330 at the crank / 280 at the wheels.
I appreciate the optimism in many of your guesses! secretariata may have my phone bugged though
Since this is a loading dyno, and notoriously stingy at that, we can apply a Dynojet correction factor to arrive at an internet claimable 272hp and give Robbie a runner up award as well.
Not crazy numbers in the modern HP arena of 400hp STi's and EVO's, +450hp Mustangs and Camaros, etc. But since it doesn't weigh +4000lbs, it should hold its own fairly well. Wallace calculators says 260hp @ 3400lbs(swag) could even sneak into the 13's...
Also, I can document having zero real world dollars in this car at the moment(not counting my wheels/tires), and I don't hate that.
With a 3hr road trip to the dyno, an oil change and half a dozen pulls, then a 3hr ride back home, I think it is safe to say that Fun Driver status has been achieved!
