C4 challenge car

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :

That hatch is exactly the piece I was wanting to "recreate"

Even if I can't get one on challenge money I want one.

In reply to Pete Gossett :

I try to will get some tomorrow. It is very dark where I am working. I use the shop light up close in the places I'm working, but that was causing a problem taking pics, I had to get up real close to get a good pic.

In reply to crazier :

I paid $150 for mine off craigs list

. Pete Gossett found it.  Had to drive 150 miles to get it.

The green one looks it goes to the AIR diverter valve there is another one to go with it. The one with the 2 round projections is probably the MAT sensor. Adn the one with 4 holes looks like the idle air control valve. Kinda hard to know for sure unless I can get a better look.

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :

While searching for one... What should they be called?

Even should I locate one, I won't know for a long time if it would fit in the budget, but I'd definitely use it while daily driving.

As far as the pics go, I think I have figured out one must be for the MAP sensor and one for an air temp sensor.

I've located the MAP still connected to the old plenum, but the air sensor is MIA.  

I believe I know where the coolant line ran, and I "hope" that where it connects to the block is plugged, I'd so I can just plug it and all will be well.

Leaving 2 small plugs unaccounted for and this

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 I believe this is part if the coil?

In reply to crazier :

mine may be for sale down the road...thinking about rebody in corvette next year.  I'll holler at you when I decide what I'm gonna do

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :

Your not going to "kart" it? Or by re-body do you mean exoskeleton?

I would sure like to see a kart with a well laid out "body".

Must be a 90, from the dash and rear bumper.  Is that a TPIS Miniram intake?  It’s a sought-after part if so. Makes power similarly to the later LT1. 

It's a Holley/weiand stealth ram. Not nearly as hard to get. They still make them for less than $400 brand new.  I have a second one sitting in my parts pile.

It would make lots of power with a cam swap, and even more with better heads.

As it is for the moment I am hoping for 300 horse na and 425 with some boost.

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Somewhat better pictures of the conectors I don't know where to connect.

Took pics of my parts piles as well. Will post later.

In reply to crazier :

I’m not that familiar with these years, but the 3 connectors in your 2nd pic probably went to the solenoids for the air pump system. 

Parts pile...

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Oh man. Got it all together and tried to engage the starter to get some oil moving around... Nothing.

Jumped it. Every time I hit the starter the other vehicle bogged down, no crank. Engine siezed...

Took off serpentine belt, all acsesory pulleys spun freely. 

Put some oil in the cylinders waited a bit and then just kept hitting the starter every few minutes until it cranked... Whew! But what if any damage was done?

There is no fire. I am not sure if it is lack of spark from those conectors not being plugged in, or if the VATS is acting up and the injectors are not firing, and I don't know how to tell.

I have a chip from PCMforless that is supposed to also disable the VATS but the security light is flashing at me non stop.

It ended up being a long day and very anti climactic, I was really hoping to get it to fire today.

In reply to crazier :

I don’t remember the details, but Vats is super cheap & easy to defeat with a single resistor. I know there’s instructions for it online, I believe on Corvette Forum. 

You should be able to check for fuel pressure at the rail without even cranking it. Just cycle the key to “on” a couple times, waiting ~10 seconds or so in between. These fuel pumps tend to go bad, so that’s a likely culprit. Then again, so are bad grounds, the fuel pump relay, ignition module, and a handful of other things. 

In reply to Pete Gossett :

Thanks Pete, I've been hoping that most or all of them are no longer needed or non vital.

Pump was replaced in 2012 with a walboro 255 and again in 2015 after a misdiagnosed VATS issue.

Pump definitely kicks in for a few seconds when engaging the ignition but then kicks out based on an oil pressure reading?

My understanding is that the VATS stops the injectors from pulsing?

My key is stuck in the ignition has been since I bought the car, I can't test it for it's frequency. 

It was supposed to be tuned out when I put in the chip from PCMforless, but the security light flashing at me suggests that may not be the case. 

Horn blew out after it left me stranded one day, when the tow truck picked it up they set it off, and when they dropped it at my house they just left it going off till I got out of work... Could be just a fuse, will try swapping the fuse out and see if the horn goes off with the light.

Maybe I could try some starting fluid... Should in theory give me a clue as to if it is spark or fuel.

In reply to crazier :

That’s always an easy test. If you’re not familiar with the Corvette Forum site, they’re very knowledgeable and helpful. You’ll probably find answers to most of your questions if you search there. 

What are your plans for engine management with the turbo? Do they have the ability to run boost with those PCM's?

I have an FMU and a water meth injection set up.

If by some miracle they both can be made to work, I am good for 6 to 8 psi for daily driving and maybe 10 or 12 on track day. Depending on if I have to use 12/1 10/1 or 6/1 boost to fuel ratio.

If either system is faulty I can't replace it and will be looking at 8 psi max.

Not a large amount of boost, but should still be good for 100 HP.

Of course this assumes the turbo actually works as it is a Used "eBay turbo" and it has been sitting in a box for at least 4 years now.

I am a longtime member of the Corvette forum, I dual post a lot of stuff to both forums.

They are very knowledgeable but they have much less patients for my sketchy plans, my inexperience, ignorance, and level of need.

If I even mention turbo over there I get accused of being a "grenade builder"

So go get yourself a noid light with the correct end for your inkector plugs to test for injector pulse, get a fuel pressure tester and you can use a screwdriver to check spark.  From there you can diagnose things properly without shotgunning parts at the car

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This is a much better shot of that particular plug that I am guessing is the reason I have no spark.

Accidentall double post

Ok, so, I have been trying to find one large connection for that plug.

But after googleing the part number from the blaster coil, and the part number from the Accel box and 50 other things...

I "think" it is actually for two plugs, one for the distributor that I may need to get a pigtail for and one for the tachometer?

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Hopefully I can take apart the wire loom and trace the wires from the ignition box to the conector, or where the conector is supposed to be.

It's possible the guy who put it in didn't wire it correctly, we shall see.

I am very happy to have uncovered a lead to follow, but I don't much care for playing with wires.

crazier said:

[URL=http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/rbates74/media/20180722_121848_zps3h7l0utk.jpg.html][/URL]

This is a much better shot of that particular plug that I am guessing is the reason I have no spark.

I’m not sure what that plug is, but I’m also not sure why your coil isn’t under the cover on the distributor cap?