Challenge Boxster?

In reply to AAZCD :

thanks for reply! Will do oil change next weekend and look at water pump. Will check out links and make a shopping list and get with you soon Thanks!

BBC

It's cool to see all the Boxsters showing up on the forum. Here's a couple notes (hidden in the middle of this build thread) that may be helpful to new 986 Boxster owners:

• The 986Forum.com has threads dating back to 2002. Everything has been discussed many times, but we still love it when new members come on and ask what oil to use, what to do about the IMS, and how to keep cats off the roof of the car. 
• Mike Focke's Boxster pages are old and some of the links have gone dead, but there's a ton of useful info there if you look around: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages
• The Pelican Parts Tech Articles mirror much of what's in Wayne Dempsey's 101 Projects Book: https://www.pelicanparts.com/boxster/boxster_tech.htm
• I do find some good info on the Rennlist forums, but more often The best technical answers and procedures can be found on Renntech: https://www.renntech.org/
• The Parts Catalog is available from Porsche Here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/  You may have to scroll down a bit to select 986 Boxster, then download the .PDF.

I started taking excess weight off the car. When I drove it this evening it felt a lot quicker and lighter, but it's probably my imagination. I weighed some stuff as I took it off:

• Clamshell: 16 lbs
• Convertible top: 37 lbs
• Seats: 46 lbs each
• Misc interior (rear shelf, center console, misc plastics, rear carpets, stereo...): 37 lbs
• Doors: 75 lbs ea (added in Stripped out door with window 57 lbs) net loss: 18 lbs ea
• Spoiler mechanism: 7 lbs
• Convertible Top motor & transmissions: 10 lbs
• Rear Bumper: 12 lbs
• Bumperettes: 1 lb ea

There's still plenty more to go. I had thought of cutting back the dashboard, but after pulling it out of my parts car it really didn't have much weight. The weight there comes from the HVAC system and bracing behind the dash. The bracing is good for safety and stiffening the chassis. The AC in this car is working great and still very useful, so for now, it's staying. For the Challenge, I may just put on an AC delete belt to bypass the compressor.

For now, I have a hardtop on it to keep the weather out. I may build a hardtop shell for the Challenge. There's a lot of drag with the top completely removed.

Porsche boxster 986-topless - Turbulence Energy by GT Collection, on Flickr

Swapping doors:

My total cash found in the car was $9.30:

Thanks for the above. Will you use an existing hardtop shell for the mold?

AAZCD said:

In reply to Billy_Bottle_Caps :

Awesome. That's a great price for a running Boxster.  My initial maintenance advice is: Change the oil, clean the drains ( https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram ), consider a new water pump (Pierburg for about $250, or a cheap one if you will replace it every couple years), check the inner tread on the rear tires - it can wear a lot faster than the rest, and drive it, drive it, drive it. That bent fender comes off fairly easily, the other side can be a pain because of the fuel filler and evap stuff. I have a pretty good assortment of interior parts, mostly black. Let me know if you need anything. Also check this thread out: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/73106-roof-issue.html  Which has a link to this: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/convertibletopedgedoesnotfallintoguidech

any chance those interior black bits would work on a 2002 S? I'll take pictures but I need the cover that goes behind the window switches, whatever goes to each sie of the roof release switch, and new seats...

I'd also love to find a roof without silicone holding the black window in place...

Hasbro said:

Thanks for the above. Will you use an existing hardtop shell for the mold?

I was curious about that too. Can’t wait to see this!

Billy_Bottle_Caps said:

Hasbro said:

Thanks for the above. Will you use an existing hardtop shell for the mold?

I was curious about that too. Can’t wait to see this!

I am not skilled in the ways of fiberglass, but I have a lot of scrap aluminum sheet from the body of an Audi A8 (doors, fender, hood, and trunk). First, I'm going to see if I can make a cardboard pattern using the existing hardtop, then use part of a soft-top frame or wood to form the cut aluminum onto. If that turns into an ugly mess ...and it probably will, I may try fiberglass ...which could turn into an uglier mess. Topless is still an option.

In reply to Mad_Ratel :

I might not have everything, but I will have a lot of what you need. Just let me know whenever you're ready.

I realized that I do need to get rid of the  AC. I need to quit thinking of this car as having other purposes and just commit to making it into a car for the $2,000 Challenge and whatever else looks fun after that - I have plenty of cars to drive on the street with AC. Without the AC and condensers, I'm probably going to go with a single inboard radiator rather than the pair in front of the wheels. I have a Toyota radiator that fits the space well. For budget, the Toyota radiator was $40 at a junkyard with the fan and the Boxster radiator unit plus shroud is about $200 'fair market value' per side. That nets me $360 more of 'trade value'.
I have a damaged front bumper and frunk lid I can alter as needed for air flow and keep the good ones from the car for future use (and more net budget value in trade).

I just picked up a used racing seat from a circle track car. $60 and weighs about 17 lbs with the cover. I just washed about 5 lbs of circle track off of it:

How should I mount that thing?? Bolt it to Boxster seat rails? Use the mount from my Sparco seat? Is there a fabrication DIY somewhere? I never looked into it before, what do people do?

IMO I'd keep the factory radiators/fans...

I'm interested how you mount the seat.  My stock seats are dead or long past expiration. I'd love to replace them once I know the car is stable. 

docwyte said:

IMO I'd keep the factory radiators/fans...

That would be safe and practical. For the Challenge I really don't have a good reason to move the radiator inboard, but I have seen it done on some Rally Cross cars to save them from dirt and damage. If this car is still running after the Challenge, the next event is Kansas HooptieX

The radiator move would be for that.

I don't know, the stock radiators aren't giant and being out at the corners has its diadvantages. Ditching the A/C and removing the airflow restriction of the condensers would probably help some. I'd at least want to get better control over the cooling fans since the stock boxster contol setup has them coming on at super high temps. I haven't run into any issues with the stock radiators while rallycrossing mine, but we run on mostly relatively smooth/soft surfaces. Did manage to drag the nose enough to unseat the corner of the front plastic undertray at nationals but didn't hurt anything. I put screen in the bumper openings to try to keep the biggest chunks of dirt/grass/rocks out, seems to be working.

Here's how the seat went in...

I was hoping someone would post some simple instructions with a link to a YouTube video. You guys let me down. Here's what I improvised:

Stripped a seat base from storage down to the rails and bolted on some cut pieces of slotted angle iron (1-1/2 x48" ) cut to 5" lengths. I would have preferred U-channel, or box, but this was the best choice for local availability and budget.

Bolt right seatbelt through angle iron.

Bolt a flat plate to the slotted angle iron. This piece came from a scrapped flat panel TV mount.

Drill holes in seat and mount to flat plate. I bolted through the seat and plate to the rails. The other holes were in the seat from the previous owner's install.

Covered with the harness installed.

Great Minds think Alike.

You see, that's why I posted. I was hoping YOU would link some DIY how to  mount a seat. 

:P

I'm too afraid to drain the coolant again and see how much oil is there.  I have not touched the car in a week. 

Take many pictures. I might end up going audi like you. (though i read my 6spd does not bolt up to the 4.2 easily since the starter hole is missing.)

AAZCD said:

LOL, brilliant!

Some of the seats I've looked at in that style recommend being installed with their backs bolted to a rollcage. I've never had a chance to sit in any, I'd love to hear how they feel on the road.

I thought that the coolant issue with the engine was better, but it's not. If anything it got worse. The engine is not overheating, but if I drive for about 5 minutes keeping the RPM above 3k the pressure relief valve in the coolant tank starts dumping coolant. (...and that's why I put the fair market value of this engine at $500 to begin with.)

Could I run the Challenge like this? Maybe. The engine runs great. I could probably make it through the autocross course before it has a problem. I could re-route the drain to a Gatorade bottle and catch any coolant that overflows. Drag race? Easy, less than 30 seconds at WOT isn't going to be a problem for the coolant. Get a basic run in, then on the next run, dump a 150 shot of nitrous in to finish off the engine.

I'm frustrated. I'm fine with bringing the 2.5L engine, but I don't want to bring a E36 M3ty car that can't drive for more than 5 minutes without puking. Here's where my mind is at tonight:

1. First, try one more time to back flush the coolant passages in the engine. Maybe that will clear the problem. Maybe not.
2. If not, focus on the V8 swap. I bought a transmission controller that is compatible with my engine and harness (1998 Audi A8), but it is more likely programed for the AWD Quattro version than the FWD. For $40 purchase, I'm willing to give it a try.
3. If the V8 swap doesn't work out, put the 2.5L back in if there's time.
4. All else fails? Do a Fly and Drive Challenge car. Bring the Boxster next year.

tremm said:

Some of the seats I've looked at in that style recommend being installed with their backs bolted to a rollcage. I've never had a chance to sit in any, I'd love to hear how they feel on the road.

This seat would probably be bolted to the rollcage in a lot of set-ups, but with this I have a 5-point harness that has the shoulder straps attached to the roll bar. In a crash, my body will be held by the straps, the seat is mostly a rigid form to keep all my parts in the right general place. It's shaped well for a comfortable sitting position, but the padding is not great. I'd bring a cushion for a long drive.

In reply to AAZCD :

Yours will not be the least healthy engine ever Challenged. It probably won’t even win that title for this particular year. Definitely replumb  / reroute / catch the blowoff, so you know how much it pukes. Don’t think about the most robust way. Instead, think of the simplest way.

Another vote to keep the 2.5 and run ludicrous amounts of nitrous through it, especially since there's a "biggest mess" award this year for "the most awesome disappointment"

have to ask, since I have nto read the entire thread.

Engine Oil cooler replaced? 

Thermostat?

Flushed the system? 

Mine had the same problem, a new tank, and the above fixed it.

Though when I pulled the cover off the coolant tank, the relief valve was in the bleed position... not sure if that was a good thing or a sign.  Had a new one so I replaced it.  Still have that tank if you want it. 

AAZCD said:

1. First, try one more time to back flush the coolant passages in the engine. Maybe that will clear the problem. Maybe not.
2. If not, focus on the V8 swap. I bought a transmission controller that is compatible with my engine and harness (1998 Audi A8), but it is more likely programed for the AWD Quattro version than the FWD. For $40 purchase, I'm willing to give it a try.
3. If the V8 swap doesn't work out, put the 2.5L back in if there's time.
4. All else fails? Do a Fly and Drive Challenge car. Bring the Boxster next year.

It's ok to just show up and hang out too. That's what I'm doing this year. 

Bringing the 2.5l and making it through a pass of each part just to complete the Challenge would be cool. Working on the v8 for next year would also be cool. Basically there's no wrong answer I guess. Just make sure you're having fun.

(And if you go V8, you could look at doing a build party to get some extra help in.)

You're planning on blowing up the motor with nitrous anyways, so just bring it to the challenge as is, with the coolant capture bottle installed.

docwyte said:

You're planning on blowing up the motor with nitrous anyways, so just bring it to the challenge as is, with the coolant capture bottle installed.

1. make first pass without spray, so you've got a time in the books.  then do whatever, until ...

2. with about 30 minutes before drags shut down, make a pass on smallest nitrous jet.  then..

3. install larger jet.  make another pass.

4. repeat 3 until time runs out (booo), bottle runs out (booo), or earth-shattering kaboom (yay!).

don't oil down the track early.