Coming soon: Father/son first car build

We had the truck running yesterday and I had my son turn on the ac and unbelievably the compressor clutch clicked on. We didn't have it running very long, but it seemed to be getting cool.

We removed the front bumper, and skid plates for better access to the bottom of the engine bay. My son removed most of the tint, but it left behind the adhesive. We're going to try the ammonia trick to see if we can get that off.

So far we are at $118 plus the purchase price of the truck which was $800. That was for a new battery and 3 spare keys cut.

So I've been thinking about the engine repairs. I had an old 1990 Mitsubishi Wagonvan(US spec Delica) that allegedly had a bad head gasket. The seller told me the gasket had been replaced, and he wasn't lying, but turned out the head was cracked. What are the chance the head gaskets on this are just bad, and not a cracked head. I ask because it is the same symptoms. Oil in the coolant. Some smoke at start up as well, but I'm thinking we may need to do more than just throw some head gaskets on it. What do you guys think?

Spent yesterday with 3 other first gen Montero's. Two SWB models with the V6, and one LWB with the V6. I was really impressed with how they performed off-road. Looking forward to getting this project going so my san and I can take it off-road.

Hey guys,

I've been going over the list of things to do to the Pokémontero. The head gaskets are priority one in my opinion. Oil in the coolant can't be a good thing in the long run even not driving the vehicle.

I priced up all the parts at my local NAPA where I get the friends and family price. I think it was a little over $600 to do it all including new plugs, and wires, etc... I was planning on checking with Rockauto as well, as I have had good luck with finding some weird stuff in the past on that site. The only thing is it seems sometime you get lower grade parts from RA, compared to NAPA, VatoZone, etc.. Also the RA shipping thing from 3-4 different locations is always a killer it seems.

Would you guys bite the bullet and get good stuff even if it means paying a bit more? Or just get the cheap stuff from RA, and roll the dice. I want this truck to be reliable, and we have plenty of time as he won't be driving for a couple of years. But I'm also really into working on this thing with him, so getting things done now rather than later is awesome.

Thanks,

Chris

I almost always buy from rock auto, but never from the economy section. I always look for known good brands like Denso or OEM supplier. Usually the parts are still way cheaper than elsewhere. I would not cheap out on a head gasket personally, simply because I don't want to ever take it apart again.

So thanks to the Mitsubishi Montero garage sale facebook page we got a new(used) front bumper to replace project Pokémontero's dented bumper. All I had to pay was shipping from VA to MA which was $70ish. The new one is chrome which looks good, but out of place on the otherwise stripped down trim level truck. It is however not dented, so we have that going for us. I set it on the front of the truck, and have the bolts finger tight. I'm going to have my son tighten them up.

Now it's time to start ordering some engine repair parts from RA.

Removed my rx7 from the garage and replaced it with the project Pokémontero this afternoon. I feel weird not having the rx7 in its spot. Going to move it to a friend's storage building for a little while so it'll be safe while we fix at the very least the head gaskets in the Montero. Pics coming tomorrow. Parts arrived yesterday and today as well. Amazon prime is great.

Chris

Neat project. Love the father/son aspect! I'm working to involve my sons in the shop (8 and 10 years old). I've learned that I have to find my inner patience...and work very hard to foster an environment that keeps them interested and curious. I've learned the hard way that it is ok if they make mistakes, accidentally break something, or just generally fail. they are very lucky in that I have introduced them to things that I didn't learn until I was in college. I feel like as long as we all have fun and learn, it is a darn good day.

Here it is in the garage. Started working on it after work on Friday. Not much done, but got the hood off of it, drained the radiator, removed the fan, and shroud. Turns out Santa brought my son a set of Harbor Freight sockets, but he neglected to notice they are 1/2" drive, so we will have to get some of the proper ones. Of course I noticed this after we cut the packaging apart, so no chance we can return them. I guess I scored a set of 1/2" drive metric sockets in a cool multi colored array. Of maybe my son can keep them if he wants.

Here is a collection of parts:

Did some wrenching with the boy today. Got the radiator out, intake off, and cut the belts off after breaking a large bolt on one of the tensioners. Felt like I might break the other one as well, so we just cut the belts as we plan to replace them anyway. Would have done more, but it was getting late, we ate some tasty burgers, and then went for a walk as a family in downtown Plymouth to get some ice cream. Might do some more tomorrow.

Anyone have a tensioner for one of these 3.0 litre V6's?

My buddy tried to convince his dad to let him buy a truck (he was working) when he was 15, fix it up over the next year, and get it ready to drive when he turned 16.

Dad saw through it and mentioned him driving it when dad was gone and he wasn't 16 yet.

Dad was probably right. There is something called a "test drive" after a repair is made.

Would you guys pull the engine to rehab it or just do the head gaskets in place?

I'd pull it for learning purposes. Normal repair I'd do in place.

Okay, so if we pull it, how does the engine and trans couple together? I've pulled my fair share of engines, but all manuals. Undoing the bolts between the engine and bellhousing of the transmission is all that holds the two together. However I'm guessing that an automatic transmission is different. Any insight? Do you have to unbolt the torque converter somehow?

yes torque converter bolts to flex plate which bolts to crankshaft. usually some sort of access cover or something. not familiar with that specific vehicle. definitely get a service manual.need to be careful where the TC slides onto front of transmission to not damage front pump.

My 2.6 donor was an auto, you just need to get the bolts on the bellhousing (there is a tough one on the top right of the bellhousing thats semi hidden) , and there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing, once thats off, get all the torque converter bolts and it should come right out. Good luck! Im halfway to swapping the 2.6 into my 86 swb so I will be following along with your progress!

So this evening we worked on the Montero.

Broke a bolt on the thermostat neck, lost two spacers between the fuel rail, and lower intake manifold but later found one. Removed all of the nuts between the lower intake and heads, but can't get the intake off. Tried prying, but don't want to force anything in case I missed something. I don't this I have, but this intake will not budge. Any tricks?

Also aligned the crank pulley with TDC, but the mark on the camshaft is off by just a little. Not sure why. It appears to be on a compression stroke, and I've rotated it a bunch of times with the same results. I'm not sure I should even worry about it, but thought it might make life easier when it comes time to put it back together.

Any words of advice?

Triple check for bolts then try to run a putty knife between the heads and intake to free it up

Sometimes there's a brace running vertically from the bellhousing/block area to the back of the intake.

Got the intake manifold off yesterday morning. Turns out I just had to swear at it the proper amount of times.

Timing belt off. Had to fight with the crankshaft bolt, and pulley, but with much swearing, and a well deserved rest I was successful. Passengers side head unbolted, but I can't get it totally off as the exhaust studs are still in the holes of the exhaust manifold. I tried removing the bolts between the exhaust manifold, and the exhaust system, but they don't want to budge. Might try to separate at the Y-pipe.

So almost 2 years later we have renewed interest in fixing this rig. Unfortunately life, and being in a rut personally has got in the way of doing anything on this. Well I moved it from its spot a week or so ago,cleaned it up.  Last Friday I drove down to CT to pick up a used engine that was in a similar year Montero that had sat in a field for quite some time. It was a runner, but I plan to go through the engine to replace the timing belt, and other things. I got the engine up on a stand last night, and started removing parts. The engine that is in the truck now ran, but had bad head gaskets. It then sat mostly torn down for the past 2+ years, and for $300 I felt getting a new/used engine might be the best idea. Wish me luck. This engine was a bear to get out, and it is large, and heavy.

Quick question. When removing the engine the torque converter leaked all over the place as soon as we pulled it from the transmission. When re-installing this engine do I just bolt the torque converter back onto the flex plate (I removed it to get the engine in the stand), and then align it with the input shaft of the trans? If so how hard is it to align? Also how do I fill the torque converter back up? 

In reply to Mazdax605 :

Put the torque converter in the trans first. Bolt it to the flex plate after the engine is bolted to the bell housing. I hope you did not damage the trans seals or the converter on disassembly Converter will re- fill itself from te trans on start up. Usually about 2 quarts forth. YMMV.

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Well I have another torque converter in the trans in the truck now. How do you bolt it to the flex plate after the trans, and engine are mated together? It was a tight fit getting the bolts out from the back side of the flexplate as it was forget with the trans in the way I just don't see how its possible.