In reply to Lof8 :
Nice, may have to try and get out there. How’s the LS swap going?
In reply to Lof8 :
Nice, may have to try and get out there. How’s the LS swap going?
In reply to ctk339 :
It's going pretty well. Some weeks I make good progress and other weeks, other stuff takes priority. I'm getting close to putting the engine in the bay, but there's still much to do after that.
I’m about at the same point, motor hopefully in after some more welding and painting, maybe next weekend if I get a lot done this week. Rebuilt the ls1 and made all the accessory mounts and oil pan, so hopefully that works out.
still need to buy the transmission, that won’t be cheap, should be my last large purchase at least other than a nice racing seat
I have about fifty more holes to fill in or plug all over the car, not the most satisfying work
Years ago it squared up a featherlight modified car and put a 4age with a t50 in it. Since it was an older square chassis it was just a matter of changing the axle tube and axle on the quick change 9” and installing matching front a arms. That thing was a hoot to drive. It was a go cart on Velcro. The G’s that car could pull on slicks was crazy. I don’t know what happened to that car. It was not mine I was just tasked with squaring it up and making it work correctly.
Doubled checked the clearance after the panels welded in, still fit, pretty tight though. Also got some paint today but didn’t get any pics
finally filled what seemed like 50 holes in the firewall and floor
Painted with brush oil rust oleum hammered paint
Have you thought about getting rid of the truck arms for a 3-link? I'd be annoying, yeah, but worthwhile IMO. Those things will axle hop like a motherberkeleyer under braking, and there's some good gains to be found in unsprung weight getting rid of those monstrosities.
I spend all of my time with stock cars these days, so I'm interested to see where this goes.
I’ve considered it, maybe on another car, or later on, they’re simple to get me out on the track this point
whats you’re opinion on the front suspension? I think I’ve got it sorted out for the most part, though it’s been so long I almost forgot what I did. Believe the spindle had two holes on top so I was able to adjust the king pin angle. Then I needed a half inch longer ball joint to make the height even. I was able to find nice upper control arms on one of my trips to North Carolina that seemed to be off a road course car
also, looking to order the transmission somewhat soon, but am curious on the ratios. Have any recommendations? Believe most people are saying around a 2.0 first gear. With the quick change I could adjust at least to make that easier to drive around the shop for testing
Also does anyone have opinions on the nylon braided hose for pressure lines vs stainless?
Im going to use earls perform o flex for the suction line as they have an inner and outer stainless braid so they shouldn’t collapse, but I’ve got probably a good 20 or more feet that will be oil pressure line, and also some water line
i was looking to uses russel pro classic hose, never dealt with the nylon stuff before though
think I’ll easly have over $500 just in hose, been able to score used fittings on eBay to hopefully cover that
In reply to ctk339 : totally depends on your engine. A relatively stock engine without a really wild camshaft? Yes go as wide as possible in gear ratios.
An extremely highly tuned engine with a max lift max duration type camshaft that only makes power in a narrow power band, go to a very narrow or close ratio.
In fact you might consider a Saenz type transmission that allows you to quickly change gear ratios. That combined with a quick change rear end will allow you to select exactly the right gearing for each corner of the race track.
Exiting a corner exactly at the right point in the engines power curve will ensure optimum performance.
Oh and those quick gearset change type transmissions usually are 5 speed in the first place. Unlike a street transmission 5th or high gear is not an overdrive. That makes the ratios at least 20% closer than a 4 speed gearbox.
They are also Dog ring gears which means you shift without the clutch making shifts much faster so you spend a lot less time shifting.
It’s a decent camshaft, probably more towards the wild side but not quite there. Around 250* duration
I was looking at g force south racing transmissions, just the four speed, should be compatible with all the parts I have and fit in the car
Wonder if emulating the Muncie close ratio would be good
2.2
1.64
1.28
1
Back in, lots of lines to make, fuel pump to figure out, ignition, a bit overwhelming
need to finish the rear end also, just a few seals
need to rebuild all the brakes also
ctk339 said:I’ve considered it, maybe on another car, or later on, they’re simple to get me out on the track this point
whats you’re opinion on the front suspension? I think I’ve got it sorted out for the most part, though it’s been so long I almost forgot what I did. Believe the spindle had two holes on top so I was able to adjust the king pin angle. Then I needed a half inch longer ball joint to make the height even. I was able to find nice upper control arms on one of my trips to North Carolina that seemed to be off a road course car
also, looking to order the transmission somewhat soon, but am curious on the ratios. Have any recommendations? Believe most people are saying around a 2.0 first gear. With the quick change I could adjust at least to make that easier to drive around the shop for testing
I'm not really sure what to tell you on the front suspension if you're looking for alignment specs, I would start with making sure the heights of the pickup points are symmetric L/R. They should be symmetric in XY (or at least within build variance) but Z heights may vary, esp. if it wasn't built as a road race car to start off with. I'm a design engineer, not a race engineer, so I might not be super helpful on setup specs.
Looking good!
Following this, as it could be very helpful to my build as well.
16an stainless limes are no fun, the nylon stuff is easy. Going to be busy on this side, maybe kind of ugly. Going to get some heat shield on stuff close to the exhaust
Apparently it’s critical that you use the same brand hose with the same brand fittings
Or at least I hope, these hoses are a real pain
ctk339 said:Apparently it’s critical that you use the same brand hose with the same brand fittings
Or at least I hope, these hoses are a real pain
I've ran into that problem before. It's not necessarily that is HAS to be the same brand, but there are some differences in fitting sizes between product lines. Different hose ODs for the same ID, things like that. Should be able to compare datasheets to figure out what's compatible.
Kinda like the temp stickers on the ignition coils, I haven't seen that before.
In reply to unevolved :
I just ordered some aeroquip line, hope that solves my issue, I’m only having the problem with the 12an, the 16an didn’t seem to care, though some fittings were harder to get on than others
starting to get depressing buying more fittings and lines, still have to plump some the water and a few power steering hoses also
unfortunately the coils have a weird plug from motec, so I don’t think I can use them, the they don’t unplug from it as they are epoxied to each coil, I ended up ordering some used coils to use instead, hopefully i can sell these
edit: I’ve been getting reducer fittings from fragola also, this allowed me to have the 16an feed like going to the 12an auction, I’m going to have a 12an line going to the 10an feed at the engine also
ctk339 said:In reply to unevolved :
I just ordered some aeroquip line, hope that solves my issue, I’m only having the problem with the 12an, the 16an didn’t seem to care, though some fittings were harder to get on than others
starting to get depressing buying more fittings and lines, still have to plump some the water and a few power steering hoses also
unfortunately the coils have a weird plug from motec, so I don’t think I can use them, the they don’t unplug from it as they are epoxied to each coil, I ended up ordering some used coils to use instead, hopefully i can sell these
edit: I’ve been getting reducer fittings from fragola also, this allowed me to have the 16an feed like going to the 12an auction, I’m going to have a 12an line going to the 10an feed at the engine also
What connectors are on the coils? Got any close-ups? I've got some friends that work at Motec, I bet we can figure it out. It's annoying in that you can't just throw on a coil from a parts house, yeah, but that connection is a common failure point and potting it increases reliability.
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