Datsun Roadster: 2020 Challenge Build

Robbie, I would 100% get that known good 1200 motor/trans setup.  Get the car running/driving THEN bite off more than you can chew and swap it.

No way you can get another drivetrain @ that pricepoint, plus known member.

Be an absolute bitch to swap the car, then try to fix gremlins.  Start with known good car, then mod it.  Pretty good recipe for success with respect to efficiency of time investment (which you are clearly tracking).

Also AWD is a no-go as front/rear ratios need to be identical.  So for G35 swap (badass idea that I fully support, btw) you'd need both the front and rear differentials from the G35.  Can't use your stock stick from the Roadstar.  You cannot have a delta speed difference between front/rear.

In reply to RACEC4R :

Doh! Duh. Of course I know about front and rear ratios matching but wasn't thinking about it for some reason.

I would hate to bother spending the time installing a drivetrain if you were planning on swapping it. Unless you would run it with the 1200 for 2020 then swap it for 2021, otherwise it feels like a waste of time.

In reply to dculberson :

I hear what you're saying but I think with a little sleuthing work I can learn if the 1200 would be a bolt in affair or not. At this point I'm assuming it would be, but need to confirm.

A bolt in job is a few hours worth of work and a swap is hundreds. A car that runs is faster than a car that doesn't. 

There is absolutely a temptation to get to a running/driving car as cheap/fast as possible and then modify from there.

In reply to Robbie :

Exactly my point.  I would want a running car, test out the brakes, steering, suspension and package as a whole.  Then modify if I liked the soul of the beast enough. 

A running car is worth 100x more than a bench-racing-swap this forum is so exceptional at committing (myself included in that jab!).

Also, please see Rule #1 :-)

I'm not sure there is anything more dissapointing than spending hundreds of hours, maybe thousands of dollars swapping a car, and realizing you don't really like it as a whole?  lol

Remember Robbie.  E36 M3ty Miata.  E36 M3ty.  Miata.  LMFAO

Be quiet Ian.  Robbie does not need a voice of reason
 

rb25det

Patrick said:

Be quiet Ian.  Robbie does not need a voice of reason
 

rb25det

 

LMFAO, dude, I'm sayin!  I'm a Nissan head, so you're preaching to the right choir.

But if this chassis is awesome and a keeper, I'm inclined to suggest an SR20DET... entire swaps are getting cheap cause everyone is doing this now in their S-Chassis (that's mine)...

But seriously, this little guy would fit perfectly!

All aluminum, 2.0 square bore, fit back behind them shock towers as much as possible, tons of aftermarket, makes 200whp stock...I think mine made 225whp at that dyno day we went to at Kelly Moss, remember that Robbie?  I forget what it made, but it was as much as the 5.0 w/cam in your E36.  Such a slugger of a motor.

I can get behind that, I've examined one of these cars closely and there isn't room for anything remotely big.  

There are commercial mounts you can buy for sr20.

Front sump pan is probably going to be an issue with the roadster crossmember.

But again, engines are relatively easy in this car (since it's body on frame), it's replacing the incredibly narrow rear axle that is the issue on a challenge budget.

In reply to Robbie :

How narrow is it?  Could you get two Explorer 8.8s and combine the short sides for a cheap narrowed rear?

I support the SR20 option (even without a turbo)....or the KA24.

 Another (less common) would be the Z22 from the earlier 200SX.

Good luck...

In reply to Robbie :

I have $95 into my narrowed 9" housing.  It's just that the jig to narrow it cost me $400

Rear track is 47.5 inches, I think. I can take a measurement but I can't imagine the space between the body at the top of the rear wheels is much more than 52 or so inches.

According to carnut.com/specs/rear.html,

The explorer with two short sides is still 56.75, or almost 10 full inches too wide. Saves about 3 inches over a regular explorer axle.

Patrick said:

In reply to Robbie :

I have $95 into my narrowed 9" housing.  It's just that the jig to narrow it cost me $400

What about the axles though? Dont you still need to have custom axles made after shortening the housing?

Maybe you can find a really short 9" axle from someone's old tubbed drag race car? Might actually be too narrow then, though.

Sturdy enough live rear axle that should be cheap: Late MGB, or Triumph TR3. Or a later Datsun roadster, but they are unlikely to be cheap, not enough parts cars around. How narrow is an early Jeep?

In reply to TurnerX19 :

I do have a line on the later roadster rear axle, that is my current plan (also easiest to bolt in and out). But I still don't think it'll stand up to something like an LS.

I love these, passed on a local one listed at $700 a few months back that had been sitting for ~20 years. I'll live vicariously through you until I can go about getting one..

I'll just put this here:

https://www.roundforge.com/articles/toyota-axle-widths/

Toyota 8" axle is strong, and plentiful. Way lighter than a 9" or Explorer 8.8. Lots of interchange availability and good aftermarket.

Early pickups are fairly narrow at 55" wms. The chart shows some FJ options at 55.6" wms and offset, which means two short sides makes an even narrower option with stock parts.

In reply to Robbie :

The key is finding short axles and making the housing to fit them, or finding a deal on cut to length axles.  

Ummm,

MAZDASPEED!

Another axle possibility is from an Alfa Spider- they are pretty darned strong (I've seen 300hp out of them), light, and have LSD.  Bonus that they survive when the body is returning to it's more natural state.

I'm going to really enjoy watching this project. 

Also:

In reply to mblommel :

I think racec4r texted me photos of that car a few days after we got me into this mess. Beautiful build.