Pretty sure there's a brand new outside handle in the stuff I gave you last time you were here
Pretty sure there's a brand new outside handle in the stuff I gave you last time you were here
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
There is!
However, its an assembly problem i do believe. Worked fine before I pulled them.for paint. And i think i can see the rod dangling loose in the door. Its just a motherberkeleyer to get in there so far. Maybe there is an easier way i don't know about.
painted handles and mirrors were definitely the right decision
Previously: 2288.83
new:
window mounting buttons and screws, friendly chevy: 12.92
gallon sealer (48, used ¼) 12
8 quarts sprayable clear (140, used ½) 70
amp wiring kit 24.95
third brake light 25.79
mtx amp had
mtx 10 inch sub and box in unknown condition: 10
MSD 6N box had
heddman headers, y pipe, cat, exhaust: 100
nifty stainless sill plates: free from scrap guy
self traded kenwood hd stereo from my race car for the free blaupunkt I had in here
self traded new stock tails from parts haul for aftermarket in stepside
hidden hitch, wiper cowl, and roll pan: free
new brake calipers: free
new total: 2544.49
left off with the truck in high build and guide coat. We used ½ gallon of high build, ½ gallon of reducer, and ¼ gallon of sealer. Then, 1/3 gallon base, and ½ kit of clear coat. But, whole truck is black now. Art touched up a few spots for me that he didn't like, we sprayed high build and guide coat again, I blocked with 500 grit.
20201026_171143 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201026_122301 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
im going to take this opportunity to discuss making cheap paint look great. I know that most of us could, but wont, paint in their gravel driveway. Most guys will at least take it to maaco or earl shibe. Pay for the $299 special, or whatever it costs these days. Now, nothing wrong with that at all! But the thing to remember, with any paint job, is that the end result is all in the prep. Prep is more than just sanding. The biggest thing is the tape process. Most shops will tape off anything that isn't supposed to be painted. Every tape line is a place for chips, missed spots, etc. especially like this with a color change. For example, the door handles. You can see exactly where the tape and door handles were before I removed them, so you can see what would have been if we shot it like that. I promise you it was an eyesore waiting to happen. Pulling the parts also allows that edge to be sanded and cleaned properly.
20201030_101830 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
another thing this disassembly before paint does is allow for a good cleaning. Again, prep. Behind the handles, mirrors, and weatherstipping was filthy on this, and it was better than others we've done. I prefer, as a final step before taping up to spray, to wash the vehicle a few times. I used scotchbrite pads and dawn dish soap and warm water and a hose. Every nook, cranny, edge, seam, cavity. Wash the wheel wells, the engine bay, everywhere. Take off everything you can that you don't want painted, do it again, and again. Then go for tape. We even pulled the extended cab glass to get a better job.
20201030_101912 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I also try to jig up loose parts. Make it simpler for a good coverage with less screwing around by the painter. For this, I used spray paint can lids to sit the door handles on, and a piece of scrap plywood with holes drilled to stand the mirrors up on. Sat these on a sawhorse. Sat the hood, tailgate, and front bumper filler on body sawhorses.
20201031_084825 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201031_140109 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
when it comes time to tape up, make every effort to reduce and eliminate areas that the dried paint particles can collect and become dust that gets blown back into the paint. We tend to do the engine bay in a wrap of plastic for this reason. We also, make sure to fully tape every edge, and avoid wrinkles.
20201030_121852 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201030_121905 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
up next was a coat of sealer.
20201030_122035 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
then, black!
20201030_163432 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
we had a bunch of trouble with the initial base coats. So, we stopped. Wetsanded out the issues, and redid it the next morning when conditions and tempers were better. A few heavy coats of base, followed by a few heavy coats of clear.
20201031_090004 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201031_131930 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201031_140055 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201031_140117 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201031_142813 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
waited for it to dry enough, and pulled it under the carport to cure for the night
20201031_155702 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
next, I put the tailgate on to keep it out of harms way. Best place for it. I also stole the nifty aftermarket taillights from the stepside to put in new stock stuff.
20201101_153409 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
im going to break from paint and body for a second. During the first round of basecoat spraying, when everything went wrong, stampie brought the miata back to me from the challenge, along with a truckload of parts. I was not expecting a lot of what showed up, to be honest. The drop spindles came with refreshed upper and lower control arms attached, along with calipers and rotors. The headlights lights came in boxes that also had brand new front calipers, new stock tail lights, wiring pigtails, etc. the headers and exhaust were as expected if not way better than anticipated for the $100 investment, and 759rng brought me a fiberglass roll pan, hidden hitch, wiper cowl, and some part I cant identify. Waaay more stuff than I expected, and ALL of it will get used between the two trucks.
20201030_160740 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201030_160753 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201030_160757 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
anyway, back to paint and body.
When we got it untaped, I wanted to finish up the jambs and such before reassembly. Every paint job ive done has gotten overspray into the jambs no matter what ive tried. So ive resigned myself to refinishing jambs. On this one, I used rattle cans to go from tan to black. Taped the bejeeus out of everything, prep with scotchbrite, wipe down with wax and grease remover, shoot.
20201102_105049 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201102_105055 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I did the wiper cavity and engine bay jambs as well, but no pictures.
I also did a refresh of the window rubbers. A trick ive learned is to wipe clean with lacquer thinner, let dry. Then, use the kiwi edge and sole stuff in the sponge applicator. Works well for a long time.
20201101_073149 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
during removal of the rear windows, I had to drill out two of the retainers. Picked them up at the local chevy dealer. Went ahead and reinstalled the bumpers, freshly painted side mirrors, freshly painted door handles, re-polished sill plates I got from the scrap guy, the tailgate emblem, and the painted trailer hitch.
20201102_105039 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201103_175418 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201104_080951 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I spent an insane amount of time taping up and painting the new grille. But it, with the factory emblem shot in black, and the new lights, turned out pretty awesome. Need to adjust the lights, black out the side marker bulb plugs, do the four high mod, and repaint the AC condenser and core support. But, I really, really like it.
20201102_105035 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
before we put the painted hood on (traded the bent and rusty stock to the scrap guy for a black one to repaint) I went ahead and fixed more fire damage, loomed up the plug wires, mounted the MSD box and ran the power wire for the amp. I also pulled out the trailer brake wiring from the loom, and gave things a once over. The TBI needs rebuilt badly, grounds need cleaned, vacuum lines need freshened. I also deleted the failed closed flapper door in the intake snorkel. Step at a time.
20201108_084721 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_084747 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
got the new hood on, and realized we forgot to paint the filler door. Again. But, the thing is back together! I drove it around! And it looks fairly OK. Soon, will be better with the new wheels, and a touch lower. And window tint. But, still.
20201108_104037 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_104042 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_104052 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_104104 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_104112 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201108_104133 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
That's a nice looking black truck. Did you fix the dent Art was bitching about? I could tell you were being stuborn about it.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
nope!! its a truck. i intentionally left a few spots so i wouldn't worry too much.
Does the Kiwi stuff soften up the rubbers at all or just refresh the color?
In reply to Racingsnake :
just the color, honestly.
Looking good. Jealous of all the parts finds!
Unidentifiable parts intrigue me. Any pics?
Any update on wheels? Do you have a set in mind or? I ask because that's all that's holding it back really. Not saying it looks bad, but the right shoes really make the dress
In reply to solfly :
Not really. Ill grab some when im up in cold storage next time
Jim: the plan for now is a set of the 15×8 gm truck rally's from the previous generation of truck, with stock center caps and no trip rings. Painted bright silver.
If i could find someone to weld up and redrill the 16×8 centerline billet wheels i have here, it would be those.
Why not adapt the centerlines?
Truck rallys are perfect for this.
solfly said:Why not adapt the centerlines?
Dual drilled 4 lug centerlines with perfect backspace that wouldn't fit after an adapter.
Patrick: i think you're right. Well see soon!
The truck is looking great! Are you planning to use the roll pan on this or the step side? Also if you do are you going to use a painted front bumper?
I think some black truck rallies and a fiberglass bed cover would really finish this truck off nicely.
Dont know about the roll pan. Honestly, i want to build a pro street stepside for the challenge at some point, and this rollpan would probably go on it. I think roll pans look odd unless the truck is SLAMMED.
This black truck will get a soft tonneau, dark windows, and wheels yet. If i find a nice chrome smooth bumper, i will do it in a skinny minute.
I know you're a fan of c4 wheels right? How would the fit be with those? Need an adapter?
In reply to Justjim75 :
It would need an adapter. Vette is 5×4.75, vs truck 5×5. Would probably need about 2 inch spacer to boot.
But i think that may look really good woth late saw blades....
Would you be interested in a new chrome 2500 bumper? It's the OBS front bumper with the openings in it. $40 and it's yours, I paid $100 for it years ago and tired of it sitting around in the storage shed.
In reply to untchabl :
Probably? Can you send me a picture? If its the one i think it is, i definitely want it....
My prep sucked. These things really should be sandblasted. However, theyre good enough for a 10 footer....
One green one was mostly blasted, one was partially blasted, and the silver ones were as found and sat behind my garage. I got sick of trying to maneuver them in the blast cabinet
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
I can't blame you for giving up on the cabinet. I thought about using dallas cabinet, but....
Had i just smoothed with sanding it would have been much better.
Im going to try two on one side and make sure I dig them before blasting and powdercoat
Any idea what hardware the center caps use?
Think just 5/16 coarse thread x short bolts
Patrick (Forum Supporter) said:Truck rallys are perfect for this.
x2, but black.
You'll need to log in to post.
