RevRico wrote: Just ordered in the strut tower bar, delrin door bushings, and clutch switch. Yay for winter projects!!
That's going to keep you busy for minutes on end!
RevRico wrote: Just ordered in the strut tower bar, delrin door bushings, and clutch switch. Yay for winter projects!!
That's going to keep you busy for minutes on end!
Yay presents!
And thanks for the black stickers Keith, I appreciate it.
Should be able to get this all installed tomorrow for a test Sunday at North park. My first time out there, where they actually have a turnout.
Stupid mobile upload site, I'll get the pictures up later
15 minutes to install everything but the clutch switch. Damn. I also think this is the first engine bay shot of the car.
Took it out for it's first autocross since adding things somewhere I've never driven before, and probably won't drive again. May have run into pinchvalve, but I don't know his car to be certain. Also had what I consider my most fair competition of the season, as one of my friends blew up his car so he co drove mine. I was 2.5 seconds behind him, in my car. Not terrible but not great.
As for the difference since adding the door bushings and strut tower bar? Slightly harsher ride on the turnpike and on the course, but definitely stiffer and more held together feeling when sliding in second gear. I'm happy with it. I imagine when I fix the driver side door I'll be even happier.
The real test will be on my "home" course on October 8th, but so far I'm happy with it. I feel like I need a skidpad or a solid day running the same course layout to get my shocks to the right settings, and maybe tire pressure too. I'm not sure where to start with either of those options though, but I do have a lead on tire pressure.
I'm currently running my KYB AGX at 4/4 front rear, and my tires at 40psi. Scott runs his DZ102s on his NB at 32F/26R. At 40, I feel like they're rolling over too much, so I might try his settings out. Aside from the 1.8 and body work, he has a roll bar, I have the strut tower bar. Close enough to the same setups for a judgement to me although his VMAXX coilovers are probably much better than my AGXs.
Thanks Pinchvalve, I finally have a picture of me driving my car
And a couple of Dante driving it.
RevRico said: At 40, I feel like they're rolling over too much, so I might try his settings out.
If they feel like they're rolling over, that would mean you need more pressure not less. But yes, I believe you are running too much pressure. Have you tried using a tire crayon to draw on the shoulder of the tire and see where your wear pattern is?
In reply to NickD:
I have not, even though I know I need to. Honestly, until the last 2 events, I hadn't felt I was a good enough driver to worry about it. What pointed it out to me was after a particularly tight course, I was seeing visible wear on the tread shoulder after having terrible understeer while also having a hard time keeping traction. And a general issue with traction on course in general.
It's fine on the street at 40-50, but on course it likes to slide at those speeds.
As the season is winding down, and I think about all the things I've learned and other cars I've ridden in, I'm now finding the importance of such things. I've got one more event, so I might make some changes to see if there is a difference on the long course. But I will be spending test n tune day next year with chalk, gauges, and proper tools to try to get everything dialed in better.
According to others, I'm starting to become a better driver. I'm picking better lines, I'm holding better speeds, and that was pretty much my goal for this rookie season: learning to make the most of my walkthroughs and pick proper lines. With good lines, for me at least, I can focus on making better speeds and better runs. I'm not out driving the car yet, as my times will attest, but it seems like these "little" things aren't quite so small.
It's probably, definitely, not helping that I never got an alignment after getting the new wheels and tires. My stupid fault, combined with a lack of reputable local shops.
I'm beginning the application for classic plates. Not to have the freedom of no emissions testing, or limitations of one day a week of use, but because there are all of 2 emissions centers that can test pre obd2 left locally, and one is closing.
The season is officially over. Ended on a spectacularly SLOW, wet, cold Saturday afternoon. I have things to do with the Vic this weekend before our Road Rally on Sunday.
The lift kit will finally be going on in the near future. I still need to get tires for the new wheels, but getting winters for the beater currently has priority.
As this has now become essentially an autocross only car, I'm beginning to think about RE71Rs for it. I might just finish off these DZ102s next year, but I'd really like something stickier. And VMAXX coilovers. Because throwing more money at this car can't possibly be a bad idea.
I have a lot of work to as a driver though, far more than I need to do with the car. Time will tell.
So can someone explain adding boost to me like I'm 5? Could it really be as easy as buy a proper manifold, mount turbo, plumb down pipe, and stick on an efr?
Yes kits exist, but kits are expensive, and I shouldn't be thinking about throwing money at this car regardless. Just trying to eek a little more out of second gear.
IIRC it is that simple for a crude system. For durability you probably want something more sophisticated that an afpr. Like actual engine management that considers current boost.
Went to the tire shop today. I got a quote for tires for when it's lifted to go on those wheels I bought last summer...
This will be stupid, and not DOT legal for road use. And surprisingly, cheaper than autocross tires.
What big tires did you find for $100/ea?
Maxxis bighorn UTV tires. 26x8 r15. Not quite as tall as I want, but short of tractor tires, the most aggressive thing I can find for dirt and mud.
Bad decisions are being made. This morning, pretty much on a whim, I bought a used turbo on the forum. Pictures here. The best I can tell from the pictures is it's this one or this turbo from a kit. It will potentially need to be rebuilt, so yay learning experiences.
But this has lead to something I didn't think of. The TD05 DSM flange isn't very popular for the miata, particularly not the 1.6. Which leaves me looking at this downpipe and this manifold. As far as I can tell, all the ones being sold on fleabay are being sold from the same warehouse by different account names, and are pretty much the same thing.
I recognize these to be E36 M3ty stainless steel that won't last 5k miles, but I realized I only drive the car about 2500 miles a year. This also puts me at a barebones, crude and nasty turbo system for under $300. I just need to figure something out for fuel management and possibly dig up some bigger injectors.
Like I said, making bad decisions. Now that the electricity is almost done for the carport, my big expenditure coming is the cement floor for the car port, and I really should be putting all my spare money into that. I'm willing to bet I don't have the car boosted even crappily until next autocross season, but now I get to collect and reread even more turbo miata stuff, turbo stuff in general, and hunt and hope to find a good deal on a used MS2 or preferabbly MSPNP for the 1.6, then learn how to use it.
The turbo is here. Much smaller than it looked in the pictures. Little bit of play with the shaft, I might get a rebuild kit for it.
And now the searching begins. Mt.net has a fantastic turbo FAQ with explanations and diagrams and BROKEN BERKING PICTURES OF THE IMPORTANT PARTS.
Knowing what it's a Chinese knockoff of should make figuring out oil and cooling easier, hopefully I'll find a diagram marking out what all the holes and everything are.
a ready made DIYPNP that will still need tuned is looking like 650 from Braineack over on miata turbo world, I hope and think that will be the answer with some rx8 injectors, just kills me that's twice what the turbo, manifold, and down pipe will wind up costing.
I've never had a turbo car, certainly never built one, so this will be interesting.
Went out to the first autocross of the season today. Picked up almost 2 seconds over four laps. But I'm having a braking issue that may get its own thread.
As mentioned previously, I lose brake fluid without leaks. Only information I've found about it is a very old thread on m.net, pointing at the engine making vacuum at startup and pulling some fluid through. I topped of my fluid when I arrived. 2 starts, and 2 laps in everything was fine. My third lap, I had a firm stiff pedal feel, but absolutely no actual braking. This is after an ABS related incident by another driver. I ran the 4th lap and the car felt good again but u didn't want to push it. Drove home, checked the fluid, down over a quarter inch.
I've lost no pedal feel, I had one instance of trying to lock the wheels and getting nothing, it seems like I'm really going through fluid though and this is something I want to get on top of. Preferably now, with 7 weeks before my next event and summer around the corner.
So master cylinder then what else? Maybe Flex lines? Brake booster? Vacuum lines?
I can tell you this much...mine loses fluid when sitting for a few months despite 'No' leaks and it is apparently going right out the seals at the bottom of the master onto that perpetually rusty shelf next to the header. Guess why it's rusty! However the only symptom of my issue is a pedal that sinks a little when stopped on a hill, and some reluctance to lock up tires on pavement. On dirt it'll still lock all four.
I'd start with the master if you have brake issues and no leaks. Need to do mine. Just lazy.
Well I've been wanting to change the brake fluid to dot4 anyway, guess this is a good enough reason.
The miata is upset. I think it's because I let it sit out in the rain while the Vic was down.
Not necessarily running rough, but it doesn't sound right and it feels off, I'm not sure how to describe it but it feels different. The HLAs are extra noisy, something that sounds like a heat shield or the flywheel has gone from 3400-3600 rpm exclusively to seemingly random times as well as slow take offs, the exhaust note seems off a little as well, I jus hope I haven't fried another cat. And the brakes just don't feel right.
New master cylinder and fluid are sitting on the porch, and the lift kit is ready to go on. I still need to get the free tires mounted, and coordinate schedules with my friend so I have someone experienced watch over me and help if necessary.
Should probably change the oil too, it's been since September, but I've only put on 1000 miles.
Because of all this, I think it's going to be sitting out the next few autocrosses. I need the practice in the Vic anyway, it's pretty much in challenge trim right now.
My daughter likes it a little to much
I've put maybe 100 miles on the car the last 2 months. Mostly just around the driveway.
But I finally took her out for her first facing front ride, and now it's all she wants to do.
Just failed state inspection. Woohoo. Only put 700 miles on the car this year.
Reasons:
So because my ass is BROKE, I get to replace the front KYB AGX adjustables with basic non adjustable KYBs. This should make handling fun. Also means I get to play with a spring compressor again, oh joy.
I'm still not sure what to do about the front fenders. Maybe new zipties will work? I used zipties because I lost/damaged the original hardware when I was painting the car, and couldn't get any self tapping screws to hold them on. Maybe I'll try welding them into place.
I could also go to a different, less reputable shop that passed me no problems last year, but I'm happy I found a responsible shop and would like to keep them happy since they're right down the street.
Maybe time to put the heart on hold and start using your head. You're broke and the car needs more time, attention, and cash than you'll have to give it for a long while. Time to sell it before it becomes a parts car, save some coin, read up on what you want to do and were you want to end up, and much later on buy someone's former race car that's already had all or most of the mods already done to it and just needs some work and energy (NOT more parts and money) to get it right. If you're spending good money for bad turbos, you're already on the wrong road to your goals.
Because selling a toy for pennies on the dollar is ever a good idea. Not inspected and needing work to pass at the end of convertible season? I'd get scrap value. Parts to get it through were $165 and will be here next week. I'm still autocrossing it tomorrow, the only real annoying part that needs fixed is free, and that's fixing the fenders. It's just a huge pain, which is why they've been like that since last June, and passed an inspection like that.
To much time and money into this car to do anything but continue to pour time and money into it until a bro dozer runs me over, an old lady t bones me, or rust eats it.
And it's not like I'd ever have the extra grand for Fox or Vmaxxs anyway, not like I'm competitive enough to need them either.
It's time to take money I don't have and buy a trailer for it so I can tell the state to go berkeley itself about inspections. Which is why the cop car is currently for sale.
Would I be out of line asking $3k for this in current condition?
Current condition includes: most lifter, possibly dead battery, no radio, no door cards, 2 year old dunlop dz102s on 15x7 aluminum wheels, paint needs Buffed, and the back window on the top is cracked. 130k miles, New brakes, front shocks, lift kit, and 14x6 steelies also included.
Obviously, winter isn't the best time to be selling a convertible, but the more I think about it the more selling makes sense.
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