Everyday Driver Honda EP3 Civic Si

I need to attend one of these.  I wonder what class my 996 Turbo would run in...

Cool.  Do you need to work corners?  Do you have to brown bag all your food/water or are there concessions there?

Your Civic looks like a blast, sounds glorious as well.  Fifty dollar event fee is awesome!

In reply to J1000 :

When's the next event?  Sign up on motorsportreg?

Looks like I'll finally be out there for the September event! So long as they allow the S2000 to exempt the Broomstick Test, that is.

Sorry to see this thread come to an end. You've done a good job of documenting, and it's been fun to read.

I have also learned some things. I had assumed that all time attack events were just time trial laps on a race track.

This looks more like autocross.

Dynos don't read the same but its unusual to see a 60fwhp difference.  10hp?  Sure, maybe a bit more, but not 60.

Same gear and everything? 

Also bummed, I like this car

This has been a great thread. It's great to see how you took a "good" car, made it great, then made it a little "too great" for competitive purposes.  I'm sure your time in a FWD will help improve your RWD driving as well.  Best of luck w/your MX-5.

J1000 said:

I really love this car too. The thread won't end just won't have as much autocross action any more. I just got my Miata on the road with new wheels, tires, and brakes and it's pretty much the greatest.

 

As some of you may remember when I swapped in my K20Z3 motor the oil pan was cracked. I JB Welded it and have been driving it that way. It started weeping a little oil, but it's small enough to keep ignoring for now. I was going to pull the motor this winter to replace the oil pan and do timing chain stuff but I've just been thinking of doing a whole bottom end swap. A good condition K24A2 long block can be had easily for $500 or less. The K20Z3 head swap onto the K24A2 block creates a beastly motor that comes close to n/a 300whp. That could be a lot of fun for practically no money if I resell the parts left over.

What wheels did you end up going with on the Miata?  I don't recognize them, but they look good.

I'm also more interested in the K-series engine you are talking about, with a K24A2 bottom end and K20Z3 cylinder head.  Where is the best place to learn more about this?

Signed up just to say nice build, I'm in the process of swapping a JDM K24A w/ RBC, K20A2 pump, 50 degree VTC gear into my 04.  I haven't read the entire thread yet, but what are your opinions on the SHG Delrin steering rack slider for a car that will see most if not all of it's time on a track? 

It's a slippery slope getting into a project like this because it's easy to start replacing anything and everything.  It's also amazing to find how beat up some of the bushings/engine mounts were.  I will be swapping in Innovative Billet mounts and have started to install spherical bearings everywhere I can.  Just pressed in the PCI front LCA sphericals, it was a pain in the ass, but I think they will help significantly.  I'm running the Street Basis Z's since that's what came on the car, how much improvement did you see with the Ksports, I think I might go Feal 2 Ways.  Cheers!

Photos before the swap with stock A3.

In reply to J1000 :

You've talked me into the delrin slider, I already have extended roll center ball joints and inverted tie rod ends, I've  gone this far and have the entire winter to work on it.

No build thread yet, currently rebuilding an NRH3 transmission with new synchrotech carbon Synchros and mfactory 1.5 LSD.  Waiting on the correct diff and mainshaft shims.  

Motor as it sits:

Black wheels hide the brake dust.

I was initially thinking Subaru gold...but I know you've already done that.  How about pink...to match your V-Tec sticker.

I vote for bronze. Looks awesome with blue paint (though it does invoke Subaru) and doesn't require constant cleaning.

However, if you're keen to a different look, white would be incredibly sharp. And since the late80s/early90s are coming back, a teal or light purple could be frickin awesome.

looks great.  for how hard you're driving, i'd just keep doing what you're doing in terms of staying with a 40 weight and that mileage.

iron typically tracks 1ppm/1000 miles on these and you're right on target, very very low.  i bounce between 0-2ppm lead on my runs which are all longer than yours so nothing to worry about there.  almost no aluminum and no chrome means the rings are barely touched.  viscosity is very strong at 5k miles and the flashpoint means the oil has basically no fuel dilution so you're getting a good seal and burn.   silicon typically enters through the air filter so yours is doing great.  insolubles mean you're getting good solid oil filtration.  sodium/potassium are present in coolant and your levels are nothing, so good to go there.  Moly/boron/calc/mag/phos/zinc are all additives and don't mean much for you.

TBN is Total Base Number and is a level of detergency to prevent acidification over long oil runs from moisture and contaminants.  at 3.5 you could run it out to 6k miles if you want but i'd probably level off at that.   they say 1 is low, 2 is probably what's best to call it safe with the way TBN depletes exponentially at the end of its lifespan.  

again - just keep running T6 or whatever 40 weight's on sale!  while a UOA is no guarantee that there can't be engine failure, at a quick glance its wearing awesome for your purposes and shows you've found what works for you.

J1000 said:

stop by to visit the Car Wizard

Si, VTEC, 100 series LX, and Car wizard.  You are either my twin, or my soul mate. 

That much of a difference in economy between the corn fuel and "regular" fuel?  I'm running E30ish in my R, wonder if I'd gain another 2-3mpg's by going with straight 91

In reply to docwyte :

I think 65-70 vs 75 makes a big difference too.