First time Challenge Builder(Or any build for that matter)

NOHOME, I told the guy at factory five what I was doing and he said that they have an axle that would fit $110/ea. I assume the mounting would be up to me. But the axles are matched up to an 8.8 all bolt on. I am seriously considering just trying to fit the Cougars rear end under the Miata as is, I will just make some sort of wide body or something.

Having just harvested a carrier out of a T-bird rear suspension, all I can picture is the size of that monster! The framework and a-arms probably weigh more than the Miata bare shell!

So, what FF is selling is a shortened axle to work with the 8.8 center section and the ford outer hubs? Do I understand this correctly?

I was having a hard time seeing FF delivering Miata suitable splines on the end of their axles.

Yeah it is made for a ford.

So small update(pretty big for me) I have the engine bay completely clear of a wiring. Now going to move to the interior. I figure in about a week I should have the motor and trans out(whoohoo!) Then the rear end needs to come out so I can get the rest of the Cougar off to the junkyard. After that I will start the motor rebuild, this is where the questions start to get really technical. I have already passed the furthest I have taken a car apart, so I am in WELL uncharted waters for myself. I have been told to bore out the block to .040 someone even said you could go .060, any advice pros/cons? I did find a machine shop that would clean up resurface and bore out for $250. The goal for the motor is as much natural power as i can get reliably, I do want it to also be able to take a shot of nitrous( dunno if it will fit within the challenge budget but i will do it just for fun) Also should I try and source an intake manifold and heads from a 5.0 Explorer? Everything I read said they flow a whole lot better. Any advice on rebuilding a motor in general would be appreciated.

Oh and is there any other way to get a value on the miata shell? I dont want to have to drag it to a yard to get weighed and drag it back.

bathroom scale and a 2x4.

one end of 2x4 on scale.

Other end on a block of wood so that the 2x4 is level.

Put tire on 2x4 halfway between the block and the scale.

Double the reading on the sale.

Repeat for the rear.

assume left to right is equal.

Sum.

Edit: they are building some serioulsy heavy humans nowadays. If the car is stipped, you might be ble to get away with a bathroom scale under each wheel. I dont know what bathroom sales go to, but it must be at least 400 lbs

So an update is due I suppose, getting very close to pulling motor and trans(about 5 bolts). Getting very angry with the wiring. I will have some pics of how the PO thought to repair the exhaust manifold. Anywho on to some other cool things I have been thinking of, and I know I should wait to see how the budget is looking but i cant help myself. I think it helps with motivation. First thing I found some wheels. I think either would look good. Then I was thinking I would really like to do side exhaust exiting right before the rear tire with it kind of half molded into the skirt. Then I thought if i did that i would have to buy a set of these.

And my last brilliant idea as of late was to make my own rear spoiler, and I thought of something along these lines( I absolutely love this car)

So thats it so far, kinda getting scared about doing this motor rebuild, but we shall see.

Later explorer 302's come with the gt40p heads and are a good upgrade if you can find them cheap enough. Im not sure its in your budget but if it is and nitrous is planned i would try to find a set of forged pistons. The common overbore for the 302 is .30 over, i wouldnt go more then that unless necessary. it gives you room for another rebuild/overbore if needed later on.

Maybe it's because it's my first time, I have almost every wire(with the exception on the wires running toward the rear for lights and what not) out of this stupid car. I am assuming I won't use all of them. I wish there was a faster way got the pcm out now just gotta pull the wiring that runs along the inside of the dash.