Yasss! Everything is sealed up you think?
I hope so!
This thing is amazeballs.
Yasss! Everything is sealed up you think?
I hope so!
This thing is amazeballs.
GET SOME!!!
YES!
Longer. Drive. Please :)
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
I think its seal or at least sealed well enough. Before I would clean the plugs, use ether to get a quick start then drive, it would not restart on properly without re-cleaning the plugs. I've started it 6 or 8 times now so it SEEM ok.
I went in to the log from the burnout and added a virtual channel for the rear wheel speed (I don't have the sensor working but I do have rpm and I know it was 1st gear) and then made a plot with interesting stuff on it. It looks like the tire came loose at about 3700rpm and 88kPa. DM6 says its making 260hp/360ft-lb at that point. That means 1st gear should be fine as long as I keep the engine below 2500rpm. Then if I'm doing the math right, 2nd gear should hold about 523ft-lb which should be 4 ft-lbs more than the engine can make.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I did my best to get the tach in frame....its kind of fun to see just how fast the needle can move 
Piguin said:
Longer. Drive. Please :)
I know....soon. I don't want to leave the safety of my neighborhood but I suspect I've warn out my welcome at this point so best to go out and spread the joy.
I'm the last person to give advice but ... it feels like that engine was pretty cold to spin to 9000. I know they're not the same family but my 360 doesn't have a big enough oil pressure relief valve and oil pressure goes to the moon if you spin it with the oil cold (<120f). I thought there was something wrong with it but that's just the way they are.
In reply to mfennell :
maybe...probably? It looks like I don't log oil temp, I need to fix that, but pressure hits 136psi which should be fine. I'm thinking when I change out the break-in oil I'll try a 60weight to help the hot idling oil pressure which gets kind of low for my liking.
Scott_Ales said:In reply to Scott_Ales :
Scott! Are you leaving the club?
136 PSI! I thought that was a typo but then I looked at your graph. Why such high pressures and what is your hot idle pressure that's making you think you need 60 weight?
APEowner said:136 PSI! I thought that was a typo but then I looked at your graph. Why such high pressures and what is your hot idle pressure that's making you think you need 60 weight?
There is a reason the gauge goes to 170. Hot oil pressure is a big part of what drives idle set point on these engines and 1000rpm gets me about 10-12psi with 20w50 hot, well as hot as I've had it anyway. At 800rpm it drops to 6 or 8psi so my thought is 10w60 will give me lower cold pressure and higher idle pressure.
Still working but on getting it to start nice mostly and tonight was pretty good....just a couple flutters of the throttle pedal in the 1st couple seconds to keep it running. I need to think a bit about how to make it better.
I never did sync the TBs after the reassembly so I got started on the, #10 was showing about 39kPa when everything else was 45-51 and trying to fix it I realized it ain't so easy to read the screws with the decklid installed. I mostly got it but the lap top died, finish up tomorrow.
and something is leaking....I'll need to eight find and fix it or make a diaper of some sort because the engine isn't coming back out.
A quick video explaining how I setup the ECU for cold starting followed by a pretty nice start at about 20C/68F
After getting it started a really special drive video...I went the OPPOSITE way around the neighborhood!
I would really like to lock my youtube to stop new subscribers...this goes so well with the evil twin theme
OMG it turns RIGHT
just poking fun, of course. this project inspires me immensely.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
LOL, I never thought of that. I usually go counterclockwise so I drive up the steep hill and can load it a bit without needing to really accelerate, but yeah it turn right just fine. 
Another cold start, forgot to open the throttle once I did it started fine. Then out for a drive, none of the column controls worked, because of course they didn't. The sound isn't great, I'll try something different tomorrow. When I got back I pulled in...then thought better and pulled back out to let it cool a bit just in case and the hot start went about perfect. I might pull a little fuel out of the VE table and move it to low rpm in the warm up table....its pretty good as is but I suspect it could be slightly better.
I'm sure you've mentioned this already - are you tuning Speed Density, or Alpha-N?
SkinnyG said:I'm sure you've mentioned this already - are you tuning Speed Density, or Alpha-N?
speed density. Being able to do that with ITBs was the whole point of the multiMAP
Tonight was the first REAL drive and now sitting here drink in hand, I'm honestly not sure how I could be any happy with the result...other than idle its not even tuned yet, all the numbers in the fuel table are guesses based on what Dynomation thought the air flow/VE would be....which means the hp&torque estimates can't be very far off I'd think.
It's a touch loud for my taste but that is all I've got in the minus column at the moment (other than 17 year of my life of course). Out on the road everything I loved about my first 308 drive came rushing back.....the smooth acceleration and higher rpm roar of a naturally aspirated engine in particular. The blower I added made the car quick and that was wonderful but it came at the expense of the sound and the vibrations changed. The sound is back, the feel through the wheel is back, and so is the well mannered normal driving. I miss the power steering but other than that I'm not sure how it gets better. When I first drove this car (I bought it site unseen because I'm an idiot) I pulled over than called my father who though the purchase was a terrible idea to say "everyone should experience this at least once in there lives"....I felt the same way today. You think a stock 308 is a joy to drive?, stop by for a ride 
I'd *love* to stop by for a ride. You might be an "idiot" but I bet this whole forum would agree that you're Our kind of "idiot"!
S'funny, my ol' Paw, and his best pal, and lil ol me co-owned a 308, back when the Ferrari market was nuts and riiiiight before it crashed. I invested 5k of my hard earned dough and lost it all. At the time, my dad and I weren't really getting along. But it turned out that we all thought it'd be a good idea to take the car from Seattle on down to Marin. So Paw and I drove on down the 101. And after that drive, we were pals again. I've considered that 5 grand money well spent if that was the result. So all 308's are on my That Car is Special list.
In reply to mke :
That is the best paragraph to read first thing in the morning. Morning inspiration.
SkinnyG said:I'm sure you've mentioned this already - are you tuning Speed Density, or Alpha-N?
As I said, I really want speed-density thinking it would make it more streetable. Looking through the logs I'm seeing on the whole drive, the engine touched 5700 @61kPA for a moment once, everything else is around 4-4500 and maybe 50-55kPa. TPS wise mostly under 25%, the one hard pull was almost 35%, idle is about 5% and 45kPa. I'm not so sure I added tuning resolution by using speed-density instead of alpha-n like I thought I would be doing. Seems to be working fine and I do like having the cylinder MAP data but the TPS is changing more than MAP is where I drive most.
To help with video watching, straight up is 5500 (because it goes to 11 
) ...the sound messes with you though. A buddy (the one who gave me the rear tires, thank you again Aaron) just asked if those were 8-9k shifts, he races a v6 so he called the sound exactly right!...but way off on actual revs.
When I put ITB's on my Locost, I stubbornly insisted on making SD work.
I had a dickens of a time trying to accurately map it when (at my altitude) cruise 93-95kPa, and WOT was 96kPa. I even split up the bins to have lots of resolution at the top of the map, but if I datalogged mild, WOT was lean; if I datalogged WOT, cruise was rich - I just couldn't make it work. As a Scottsman on the Spectrum - I stubbornly fought to make it work.
After about two years, I switched to Alpha-N and never looked back. It was FAR more driveable than it had ever been on SD, and I'm actually decent at tuning (and humble too).
With the TPS on the opposite end of the throttles to the cable itself, I still rin Accel Enrichment off MAP change, not TPS, but man, it runs SO good.
On your highest shift it really sounds like it's just coming onto the cam. Can't wait to hear you really get on it!
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