I'm curious but unfortunately my only competition capable rotary is carbureted and will stay that way because I don't want to jump a class. Plus I like the anachronistic simplicity. I might know someone who may be interested if he hasn't bought a Link already.
I really appreciate your tenacity on this project. At this point i don't even know how many times your have had the motor in and out. Makes my car problems seem small and i need to get my stuff together and get moving
Pete. (l33t FS) said:I might know someone who may be interested if he hasn't bought a Link already.
Even full price ($499) were WAY cheaper than link
What have you got that needs an ecu? I'm like the neighbor dealer...dude, I'll hook you up! 
In reply to mke :
haha! I have a 5 cylinder Audi engine in need of engine management, and a Subaru EJ20 turbo motor.
I have an MS3Pro Evo that I'd bought for the Subaru, before I even had the Subaru to attach it to, along with a DIY kit to make a transmission controller, that hasn't been supported since 2018. I also have a Microsquirt based trans controller but that won't really properly control a Subaru trans, and it also won't output for a 7 segment gear display.
I'm not sure which direction to go, and frankly I'm in the middle of a major life change as well as a job change and recovering from a really nasty infection that left me bedridden for most of a month, so all this stuff has unfortunately been backburnered. I'm also close to being flat broke (see illness above).
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I kwow a guy that can make $0 work if that works for you? But you need to install it and provide feedback.
The engine is no problem, the trans he can do a custom function to either sent info to the oem trans controller or we can probably control it directly but that would be more work. Email me, I don't want to keep this chat in the v12 thread. Thanks.
In reply to Norma66-Brent :
The secret, my secret, is marry a Ukrainian. They don't give up and my wife won't let me have a new project until i finish the old one. :)
Its mostly in now, just a few little bits left
There are a few col connectors that lost there clips as did the main TPS so I need to see what I have an order if I don't have replacements. i also need oil filters so the coolant tank is wait as they are easier to reach with it out and somehow I connected my brake pressure sensors to 12V instead of 5V and one seems dead so that needs to be replaced before I refill the brake system.
I ordered some crimpers that I think will be correct for the new ECU pins...or would be if I had normal wirs but mine is almost all the tefzel aircraft grade stuff which has thinned insulation... this will be a project but at least it comes with a speed sticker so definitely worth it
The springs are done, I should have them soon.
Tomorrow I guess i start reassembling the rear suspension. OEM camber is 0.5deg front, 1.5deg rear. I'm thinking I want to be around 3? The front gains camber as it turns.....so spacers that add about 1.5 degree? which should be about 8mm and shim from there as needed.
I was just made aware its march 8....3/08...its 308 day!
All these years and it never occurred to me 
Stop! Its camber time!
Then a lot of time cleaning stuff
And finally 1 a-arm in place
I really thought I'd get a lot further today but it was not to be which made me a little sad. This brake hose made me pretty sad too....
me and my stupid typos....I thought my mc hammer joke was so funny...without the typo in camber
Did an ECU glamor shot.....no actual ecu inside yet but in pictures its wonderful
and looked at the crimpers I ordered. One set was just the wrong size, mis-click I guess, replacement will be here Wednesday.
The other seems exactly right yay. There are a few spare pins so no worry wasting 1 to play.
now back to suspension.
1 done and it is simply marvelous...up and down nice and smooth
In reply to mke :
outstanding!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Will the monster corvair be out and about this year? I know there's a thread somewhere but I try not to set foot outside for any reason these days
mke said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Will the monster corvair be out and about this year? I know there's a thread somewhere but I try not to set foot outside for any reason these days
Yes sir! I am going to pull the transaxle and apply a bit more torque to the flywheel bolts, hoping that takes care of the on/off throttle "bang" that wasn't there before I added a Chevy flex plate and .390" of spacers and 1/2"-longer bolts into that joint.
After that, I'm adding a WBO2 to the X-pipe, then it's time for reassembly and tuning.
i will de-zombify the MonZora thread when I have something to report.
Side 2 is back together. Axles and such tomorrow
I'm not loving the shock though. For some time I've suspected its leaking slightly. Its on the engine is leaking side, but the oil on the shock is sticky not motor oil and I noticed the adjuster doesn't act right when the shock is fully extended. I really wanted to drive the car a bit before doing anything with the shocks...these are like $280each + parts to rebuild so my though was drive, decide what I think of the damping with the new springs, get them rebuilt and revalved as needed. That could still be the plan, it moves smoothly and is clearly damping....but its not right. I need to drink on it a bit ......
I got so little done tonight. Pulled the damaged brake line and emailed a custom line place asking about repair or replacement. Gave some thought to a shock dyno, I do have the old ECU just sitting and it could easily run that but that is just not a battle I want to fight right now so I think I've settle on just sending out the right rear for now. Install the outer axle bolts, I damaged 1 removing it and a replacement arrived today so too care of that.
A new set of crimpers arrived and they work great on the medium size pins
but not so much on the small pins.....need to find a 3rd set
I was poking around the Ohlins web site looking for the rebuild info and found they replace my single adjustable STJs with double adjustable ILX for only $850/shock for 4 way adjustable at $1250 each 
.....makes the $275 rebuild seem cheap I guess so best I do that before I ruin the shock.
Doesn't that connector use dust boot pins?
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
This, and it looks like the smaller pins need smaller wires. The wires for the smaller pins won't need to be very large since the small pins only handle so much current. I'm not good at guessing smaller wiring but as a guess, if those are what I think they are, they are usually run with 26 gauge wire or so.
The newer cars use wiring as small as possible, for the same reason they network everything, as it saves weight and increases interior room. If the interior room seems absurd, look under the passenger kick panel of a 928 and despair 
That's a lot of heavy gauge spaghetti having to run everywhere!
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Doesn't that connector use dust boot pins?
There are 3 different pins. For the 2 small sizes, they pop into a holder that had seals for the wires and then seals into the connector body
Then the largest pins do have a seal crimped on and they fit directly into the main connector , the 6 large holes on the end in the pic
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
This, and it looks like the smaller pins need smaller wires.
They might, but they don't fit the crimper either. The medium pins fit nicely width wise
The small pins just bounce around though
The crimper slot is maybe 1/3 wider than the pin? So when i crimper the metal i need to wrap around the wire is just flaring out to fill the slot width. I'll get a smaller set and then see what is the max wire size. These small pins are the majority...there are 116 of them sp ideally they will accept 18g wire one I get the right crimper.
So, a lot of busy work today
I found and ordered a 3rd set of crimpers, here tomorrow
Filled out the Ohlins shock repair order, waiting on the shipping info
found a place who'll make me a replacement brake line for $45 so I can avoid buying a new $140 set, still need to place that order
Added the little bolts to the rear rotors. I was running without and it was a pain to get the wheel bolts in as the rotor would spin on the splindle and the chopper plate I put behind the rotor seems to spin a different way and it was just awful. Now its fixed
Yellow calipers.......I need to order ferrari stickers
Looking at it the camber is obvious but its hard to get to to show in a pic
but very rough measurement says 2.5deg so close, just needs a few shims.
3rd set of crimper arrive and work just fine on the small pins. Here is 18 &20g tefzel wire
for 18g pvc wire (normal wire) I have to pre bent the insulation clamp bits, but that honestly made getting everything in the crimpers a lot easier so maybe the preferred technique for everything. The crimpers says 22-28g....but full lose they seem fine and the pins handle the 18g no problem. I thingk this is sorted and I'm ready to start pinning the connector for the new ECU.
Ohlins sent me questions instead of shipping info ....those are pretty old, how about some pics so we can see what you have before asking you to ship them. Now I'm a little scared
I put a new yellow spring on the left rear....amazing. For anyone in the area I used Full Spectrum Coatings of WestChester, they did a nice job.
There were a couple marks where they had to hand the springs, so I grabbed some paint as close as I could find.....and also painted the front sway bar. I was not running the rear bar and my plan is leave it off for now until I see where I am f/r balance wise so didn't bother painting that one right now.
And looking at the swaybar I know what most of you are thinking, "why oh why didn't you paint the air box yellow? It would look amazing though the blue deck lid!". The answer is simple, I know right from wrong and that would be wrong, now stop it, I'm not doing it!
The rubber bushings in the swaybar links are past sad, but years ago I bought rod ends for the sway bars and never installed them, so that will happen.
Ferrari loves peened nuts, so I have a tool to unpeel them
Looking at the hub, the back of the rotor, and everything around I an not seeing where the grease ring on the wheel is coming from.
I will replace the grease seal....but I'm confused....
In reply to mke :
As far as the grease is concerned: Ball joints or tie rod?
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