The other need more work to make the bensa and snake over the bell housing...of course
The other need more work to make the bensa and snake over the bell housing...of course
i do not love driving loud cars. I do not love when others drive loud cars. So I TRY not to build them.
I HATE fart can sounding exhausts so I TRY not to build those.
This needs a lot of flow.....with big pipes....I decided this was going to be a make the bst of it solution. I bough a pair of 2" mufflers that should be reasonably quite but are only good for about 250hp. Then I bough a set of borla 3" multicore mufflers that won't be quite but flow about 750-800hp and should stop the big pip drone. Then I bought a pair of vacuum operated cut-out valves for the 3" mufflers that I wil connect to the ECU and let it decide when the valve need to be open so normal driving will be quiteish, shift acceleration probably not so much.
Picking it is easy, stuffing 4 mufflers, 2 valves and huge pipes where 1 muffler with small pipes came out well.....
Ok...that sort of looks ok if I can get pipes connected.....
The outlets seemed easier so I started there. I stuck with the OEM 4 round tip look but use 3" and merged then to get through the holes in the rear valance. The small mufflers are connected to the reduced ID tips.
Getting the it connected to the engine meant more strange looking pipes
I just put springs on the slip connectors. If it least of rattles too much I'll figure how to add band clamps or something.
I put O2 bungs everywhere...18 total. Currently I have WB in the last 2 collectors and NB in the 4 3cyl collectors....that may change but the bungs are there if needed.
Way back when I pulled the car into the shop to replace the ECU I decide to do a brake upgrade. I bough some stuff, sold the stock stuff and there it sat for 10 years....but with the engine looking like an engine its going to need brakes...so I bought more stuff.
A buddy had a set of F430 calipers and rotors that were somebodies "left overs" but plenty good for me so I snap them up.
TECHNICALLY there is supposed to be a mechanical emergency brake which for the purpose of this project will be the ignition switch :)
...I'm thinking that will also double as the parking brake but as a back up I bought a drifting brake thing off ebay that I cut apart and hook to the factory e-brake handle
Someday I would like to program the ECU to do traction control so while the brakes were all apart I decided to also figureout a way to add wheel speed sensors and made chopper wheels to go under the rotors.
Did you just machine your own ABS tone rings?!??
Wow, amazing journey. You are a truly gifted individual.
Then mount the calibers and wheel speed sensors....but I ended up giving up on the rear wheel speed sensor since they didn't really fit and for traction control I can pull the axle speed signal from the speedo sensor and way and figured no sense in being pig headed.
The car came with vacuum assisted power brakes but I really wasn't expecting a decent vacuum signal to drive it and the F430 caliber pistons are all the same so they don't match the 308 bias, and I needed to add a master for the new hydraulic clutch....
Mount the hotrod gear reduction GM starter
Javelin said:Did you just machine your own ABS tone rings?!??
Yep. He did. I'm pretty sure this guy is the last boss of the internet.
Another "donation" that 360 made was its Ti connecting rods. Then I got more off ebay and 1 more from a salvage yard and I had 12....all from different weight sets. I matched the caps, matched the rods, matched the assemblies all within 0.1G and matched the assemblies end to end within 0.5g
This is absolutely bonkers in the very best way possible.
The flywheel has the chopper for the crank trigger but the sensor needs to mount somewhere so I figured I'd build it into the lower flywheel cover.. I really wasn't sure how sensative this whole thing would be so I pult the flywheel in the lathe and hooked a scope up to the sensor to see. It to give a fine signal (I later learned the ECU HATED the signal, but for today it was good) so I made a cover and mounted it.
Remember I cut off the waterpump? Yeah I need a water pump now.....
I like how this thread appeared yesterday and now has 170 posts.
An alternator and some way to hook up a belt would be nice too, and I still need to make the damper short enough to clear the wheel.
Stock the QV used what's called a polybelt. I never heard of 1 and after having a car with one I fully understand why...they s@ck. They are really thin V belts made of a plastic and needs to be kept ridiculously tight, but since they are plastic they stretch and once you here a squeal you have about 5 seconds before the whole belt literally just melts and you're stuck. Getting rid or this was already on my to-do list, this engine swapt is maybe the hardest possible way to upgrade a belt but at least its getting upgraded.
Amazing work! Very inspiring.
How are you shaping the aluminum to the final product? For something like your brake adapters or the master cylinder holder (pretty much everything aluminum) are you starting on the mill to get the shape and then finishing with an angle or die grinder or just going at it with those from the get go free hand? The finishes you are getting are great and look very OEM rather than custom fabricated.
Ever think of sculpting on the side? You know, in your free time.
Thanks,
Adam
You don't think about it but even stupid stuff takes for ever.....like a TDC indicator.
BirgerBuilder said:I like how this thread appeared yesterday and now has 170 posts.
Not to mention, it is now tied for the 6th highest rated thread on GRM!
adam525i said:Amazing work! Very inspiring.
How are you shaping the aluminum to the final product? For something like your brake adapters or the master cylinder holder (pretty much everything aluminum) are you starting on the mill to get the shape and then finishing with an angle or die grinder or just going at it with those from the get go free hand? The finishes you are getting are great and look very OEM rather than custom fabricated.
Ever think of sculpting on the side? You know, in your free time.
Thanks,
Adam
Most all the final finish you see are sanded to like a 180 grit then scotchbrite. I can put this finish on pretty much anything so pretty much everything ends up matching.
The roughing work just depends on the part what match I use (grinder, die grinder, mill, etc) but they all start with me bluiing the part and scribing what I want it to look like. Then I grind or mill or whatever as close as I can to the scribe lines, then I sand it and it looks like it was always that way.
You'll need to log in to post.
