Do you have other parts to the car linkage? Looks like you are missing a few brackets to hold the cross bar. That progressive manifold you have in the back of that picture is one of the garbage ones with no provisions for pre-heat.
I've had good luck with the Scat center pull linage if you get in a bind and want something cheap and easy (if you are missing parts to yours). Or you can go crazy and buy a cable style like I did :).
I may have more linkage parts to them, but will have to dig through the junk pile to see. It looks like the Scat one you mention may be the best budget friendly option if this setup doesn't work out. The Empi Hex linkage was the one that kept popping up in searches, but I fear most things with that name attached to it.
I get off work at 2 today, so I'm going to do some quick pictures of everything in the engine bay and post them up afterward. Thanks a bunch for the help guys.
Very cool. I love bajas!
Alright, I got some pics of the motor. I don't know if there is much to show, but it's pretty obvious the wiring is pure crap. They cut the muffler off the exhaust because "Everyone else's cars were louder, so we wanted to join in on the fun!". Can't argue with that logic. Also I checked and was only able to find one bracket from the dual carb linkage, so that's a bummer. The oil filter setup was originally hooked up to a roof mounted oil cooler. It's sitting in the garage, and I haven't been able to discern what they did with the oil lines that originally ran to the filter setup. The last pic you can see where the header is pushed up against the crank pulley. This probably happened when we pushed the car up the trailer with the tractor.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I would convert the ignition back to point/condenser. Then you have less wires.... That way only 3 wires to run the engine; electric pump, spark, starter. 2 toggle switches and a push button for the starter. If the alternator were a one wire type, then it would just have one wire, to the big cable one the starter, the battery cable.
The alternator might work as a one wire, but to get it to start charging, you have to rev the engine up a little once.
You can get it running with the carb that you cleaned up, but I would look for something without the power valve. Finding something really cheap might be a issue, but might be able to find something used that can be cleaned up made to work. To use a single twin carb, you really want something like a weber IDF, were both throttles open together.
I would use VR1 oil 20/50
TED_fiestaHP said:I would convert the ignition back to point/condenser. Then you have less wires.... That way only 3 wires to run the engine; electric pump, spark, starter. 2 toggle switches and a push button for the starter. If the alternator were a one wire type, then it would just have one wire, to the big cable one the starter, the battery cable.
The alternator might work as a one wire, but to get it to start charging, you have to rev the engine up a little once.
You can get it running with the carb that you cleaned up, but I would look for something without the power valve. Finding something really cheap might be a issue, but might be able to find something used that can be cleaned up made to work. To use a single twin carb, you really want something like a weber IDF, were both throttles open together.
I would use VR1 oil 20/50
I'll consider ordering some points and condenser, but I do love a set it and forget it style ignition. If this one doesn't give me fits I don't mind a few extra wires. I've got a spare aftermarket keyed ignition that should work for this application if the stock one is shagged. I'll have to check, but I think a 12 circuit marine fuse block should do the trick for everything. I got a Blapunkt bluetooth radio, CB, lighting, and engine circuit. If flickr wasn't acting a fool I'd post some more pics of the heiness harness.
I've got a spare alternator that came with the other motor, but I believe it's the same 1 wire style. It also came with a spare starter, so the bin of parts ended up being decent spares for backroad fixes.
The oil I purchased is Rotella 15w40. I use it on my BMWs and any motorcycle project I have in the works usually. Good all around oil for a fair price, and the VW community appears to accept it for the most part which is pretty rare.
In reply to captainawesome :
Having lived with a Petronix system for about 20 years, I’d suggest that. Simple like points, but more robust and fewer parts
Also, think about that exhaust. While loud is cool in the short term, it’s exhausting over the long time.
alfadriver said:In reply to captainawesome :
Having lived with a Petronix system for about 20 years, I’d suggest that. Simple like points, but more robust and fewer parts
Also, think about that exhaust. While loud is cool in the short term, it’s exhausting over the long time.
I've read good things about the Pertronix. I don't know what version I have, and judging from pics is probably a cheap aftermarket version.
The exhaust will get a muffler again, I have the muffler that was cut off, so I'll probably just scab it back on.
Some other project cars I’ve had, the po’s added various other systems, which were ok, I guess.
But I really like the Petronix one best. The signal processing is all in the system in the distributor, so no outside box is needed.
I use a high voltage coil with it just fine.
But you can use any aftermarket box you want with it, too. Such as an MSD box. It can do so much it’s very handy.
Have fun! Looks like a kick to race with.
Ok, I assumed your setup would be something similar to this. That is an aftermarket 36 horse style shroud, with no provisions for an oil cooler. If you look at the back of the shroud you will see an oil filter block off plate has ben installed with a set of hose barbs. The original oil line routing would be to the filter, then out to the roof mounted cooler, and back to the case. I am not a fan of this setup at all for a number of reasons. The design of the oil system lets some of the oil normally bypass the cooler during regular operation when it is hot, and when when the oil control valve(s) (depends on if you have single or dual relief case) are open when the oil is cold. Therefore not all the oil is passed through the filter which cuts down on its efficiency. The other issue is unless there is an inline oil thermostat installed after the filter, the oil is always passed through the cooler which increases the amount of time it take for it to get up to temp and the engine operating at temperature.
20/50 oil is a bit thick to run in these engines, it will further hurt your issue as the heavier weight oil will hold the bypass spring(s) open longer and oil will bypass the filter and cooler.
I'd run at a minimum an oil light, and charging light for instruments. Thr charging light provides both and exciter patch for the alternator to signal it to start charging, and also is a good indication if you have thrown a fan belt.
I've had mixed results with the Pertronix systems. I've had one bad out of the box, and two of them fail while the car was in storage for the winter. I know you are trying to keep this low budget, but I still use a points based system in my cars, and an external control box (MSD, Accel, etc). The points are just a simple on/off switch signal for the ignition, and do not wear out as there is no actual spark passing between them.
I have recently been using the Magnaspark system from CB Performance. Rock solid signal and no ignition scatter. Plus all the parts are common with newer vehicles and readily available at your local auto parts store.
I think the oil cooler has been disconnected, so I don't know if it's just looping through the filter only at the moment? I assume a shroud that has the internal oil cooler would be the best fix for this setup? If I get some daylight and time I'll pull the the oil filter setup from the firewall and see how it all connects. I ordered all new studs and nuts for the exhaust and intake stuff, unfortunately it won't be in for probably a week when everything else rolls in this Friday. I may just use whatever bolts I have on hand to get the intake/carb stuff snug until the new hardware comes in. Oh, almost forgot I ordered some NGK B5HS just to get one last variable out of the way. Fingers crossed I'll start this weekend.
Under the hood rats nest:
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
And the badass switch panel:
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Compufire > Pertronics
That is a crummy Pinto version of the Weber 2bbl and not a great one to use. If you have to put a Ford carb on it I'll send you a bugspray manifold and see if I can come up with a holley (or you can get a $75 new IDF clone for it.) Otherwise if you aren't interested in two carbs one of those webers on a stock 1bbl manifold would be the most reliable option.
If you can figure out shipping I have a one piece fiberglass baja front clip just taking up space in my shed. I'd much rather have that dual carb setup....
I LOVE that switch panel. I'm guessing this car isn't a legit, "Ran when parked."
I hate to say it, but I'd probably extract all of that wiring - only leave what obviously makes sense - and make a fresh harness.
oldopelguy said:Compufire > Pertronics
That is a crummy Pinto version of the Weber 2bbl and not a great one to use. If you have to put a Ford carb on it I'll send you a bugspray manifold and see if I can come up with a holley (or you can get a $75 new IDF clone for it.) Otherwise if you aren't interested in two carbs one of those webers on a stock 1bbl manifold would be the most reliable option.
If you can figure out shipping I have a one piece fiberglass baja front clip just taking up space in my shed. I'd much rather have that dual carb setup....
Budget dictates I get this thing running with the Progressive to start out, but I may be giving you a shout about the Bugspray and Holley. I don't know much about those, but I assume it's a better single setup. I really got to save the dollars to sort out the bent up driver side link pin spindle, trailing arms, and tie rod. I don't think that will be crazy expensive, but prices seem to be all over the place on them.
The one piece would be neat, but I think shipping would be on the high end.
AAZCD said:I LOVE that switch panel. I'm guessing this car isn't a legit, "Ran when parked."
I hate to say it, but I'd probably extract all of that wiring - only leave what obviously makes sense - and make a fresh harness.
All new wiring for each circuit is the plan. I really don't trust anything I have seen thus far, and would rather just do it once and move on. I have lots of good quality terminals and crimpers that should make quick work of most of the connections. I just need to acquire some wire and make it happen.
I think I have a couple of extra front beams, maybe as many as half a dozen, and almost that many rear suspension assemblies too. You should put together a wish list and pm me; 10 hrs apart is actually pretty close by GRM standards and I could probably meet you part way enough for you to do a sub 1k mile turn and burn.
oldopelguy said:I think I have a couple of extra front beams, maybe as many as half a dozen, and almost that many rear suspension assemblies too. You should put together a wish list and pm me; 10 hrs apart is actually pretty close by GRM standards and I could probably meet you part way enough for you to do a sub 1k mile turn and burn.
Sounds good. I think after looking at the pics of my distributor and comparing them to the Compufire, there's potential that's the ignition I have. Keyword potential.
Edit: scratch that, it's probably the Accu-Fire from Empi judging by the black plastic grommet for the dist. housing.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
All my Compufire units had just regular round rubber grommets that stuffed into the square hole in the distributor, and they were reliable, so you are probably right.
Also, my dad used to run the hot side line of the oil cooler through the exhaust riser (or a copper line hose clamped and header wrapped to the intake) instead of exhaust. Made the exhaust easier anyway.
Looks like they just posted on the Facebooks that the Gamblin' the Ozarks will take place on the 11th-13th. That's not a bad time of year, except I am planning to attend the GRM Challenge with the e21 and the dates posted for it are October 18th-19th. Hopefully my wife is super understanding about all this, because I feel the need to do both. Maybe I'll see if any of the others nearby happen in a less tight window?
The Poll is still open for voting (16 hours left at the moment) on the Gamblin the Ozarks page. Maybe it's not firm for Oct 11-13. Vote, vote, and vote for Sept 27-29.
AAZCD said:The Poll is still open for voting (16 hours left at the moment) on the Gamblin the Ozarks page. Maybe it's not firm for Oct 11-13. Vote, vote, and vote for Sept 27-29.
Not looking good right now but my vote is in and I hope it all falls in place. Either way I’m going to figure something out.
Edit: Looks like it's already set for the Oct. 11-13 dates since there's a Nevada one that same weekend in Sept. I spoke to the wife about it earlier and she seemed pissed I bought a car that wouldn't get to go on the intended trip. I was a little stunned, but she's a rad lady friend who gets the level of awesome. She said I need to do both since they were something I've been really passionate about, and we'll figure out how to make it work.
Shoot for Kansas in the end of April? https://www.facebook.com/Gambler500KansasRally/ I think that's where I'll take my wreck.
I found this pic posted on their page from 2017. Look familiar?
Weird. I found that pic the other day from the Facebook profile of the guy I bought it from. Forgot to post it though. I don't know why it was posted to Kansas page, because he only went to the 16 and 17 Arkansas ones. At least that's what he told me.
I'm considering the Kansas one as well. I'm from Girard/Pittsburg area and don't recall there being much to really Gamble out there. At least not compared to the Ozarks.
I bet the pic was just posted to their page as a generic Gambler pic then, marketing for their next event. I've been to Pittsburg and don't remember anything notable. I do have family nearby in Mo though and there's some nice country around there.
AAZCD said:I bet the pic was just posted to their page as a generic Gambler pic then, marketing for their next event. I've been to Pittsburg and don't remember anything notable. I do have family nearby in Mo though and there's some nice country around there.
I can probably convince my brother to do the Kansas one with me. I don't think I have anything crazy scheduled that time of year other than a possible autocross meet. From the map it looks to be about 2.5-3 hours from my house, but only an hour from Girard. It would be a good shake down run for the Ozarks.
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