I was always under the impression that bearings were a bronze alloy (copper based)...am I mistaken?
I was always under the impression that bearings were a bronze alloy (copper based)...am I mistaken?
It's usually some kind of tin-lead alloy on top of a copper backing layer, with something in-between on nicer bearing inserts, right?
Copper in oil is mucho-bado in any case.
The bearings are breaking down in a last ditch to limp the car into the 200K+ club... sadly, they did not make it 
Well, looks like its time to outsource the build and flush the living be-jesus out of anything oil related.
Replaced the oil cooler!!!!
Richard
In reply to RPSadler:
Outsource the build?
Alan Cesar wrote: Andrew's right: Automatic transmissions have clutches, too. They're inside the transmission case, not in the bell housing. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch3.htm
Yeah, well, do they have pressure plates? Because that big ol' yella thing isn't an a clutch disc of any kind.
Still, they are just yanking his chain.
That video of the sound after the blowup doesn't sound good. Time for STI motor?
I'll sell you the drivetrain out of my 2012 WRX so I can slap an LSx drivetrain in there :)
RPSadler wrote: The bearings are breaking down in a last ditch to limp the car into the 200K+ club... sadly, they did not make it
The car totally did make it into the 200,000 mile club. It didn't make it far past that, though—I think it made the club by just a few hundred miles. I'd have to double-check, but it's certainly not ticking any miles right now.
I don't think this build is getting outsourced at all. I keep getting IMs from Alan across the office like this one:
Alan said: yeah. I priced out the goods. If I don't need to replace the crank and rods, I'm in for about $800 in parts.
He also keeps saying things like "I don't need that special tool, I'll just use a screwdriver and a coat hanger."
And bubble gum and duct tape.
Tom Suddard wrote: I don't think this build is getting outsourced at all. I keep getting IMs from Alan across the office like this one:Alan said: yeah. I priced out the goods. If I don't need to replace the crank and rods, I'm in for about $800 in parts.He also keeps saying things like "I don't need that special tool, I'll just use a screwdriver and a coat hanger."
I just read the article and you guys outsourced the bodywork!
I would have too, just picking nits.
Looking forward to reading about it.
With the Corvair and now this are you guys going to let someone else pick out the next project car for you?
In reply to pres589:
Thats the way GRM usually does it, right? I sure as heck can't bore/hone/N valve seats in my garage haha. Assembly? Sure! We can get this sorted :)
In reply to Alan Cesar:
I based my assumption on the "Added Gauges" article when you boys had 197K on her, glad to hear you boys made it though 
You boys going to stick with the 1998cc or grab an extra half liter?
Richard
tuna55 wrote:Tom Suddard wrote: I don't think this build is getting outsourced at all. I keep getting IMs from Alan across the office like this one:I just read the article and you guys outsourced the bodywork! I would have too, just picking nits. Looking forward to reading about it. With the Corvair and now this are you guys going to let someone else pick out the next project car for you?Alan said: yeah. I priced out the goods. If I don't need to replace the crank and rods, I'm in for about $800 in parts.He also keeps saying things like "I don't need that special tool, I'll just use a screwdriver and a coat hanger."
Yeah, paint work is one area that's really really hard to do on nights and weekends in your own garage. I painted my BMW myself, and after that I'm never doing it again unless it's a car I really love that I'm keeping forever. I ended up with $1200 in materials alone!
As a new owner of a 2006 Saab 9-2X (aka Saabaru, only 338 2.5 turbos imported to the US) I was psyched to see a WRX as your new project car.
I'm hoping that you will enlighten us about the car's viscous LSDs. I've read that they can go bad in as little as 30K miles. How can they be diagnosed, and what's the best course to follow if their slip has become unlimited?
I am with you on paint and body. I can do it after hours at my uncle Chuy's shop, but I just don't have the touch I used to and the retail cost of supplies eats up a lot of cost savings.
Skipferry: what is your car doing that makes you think something is wrong?
skipferry wrote: As a new owner of a 2006 Saab 9-2X (aka Saabaru, only 338 2.5 turbos imported to the US) I was psyched to see a WRX as your new project car. I'm hoping that you will enlighten us about the car's viscous LSDs. I've read that they can go bad in as little as 30K miles. How can they be diagnosed, and what's the best course to follow if their slip has become unlimited?
Never realized they made so few of those 9-2Xes. They appeal to me as most odd and short run cars do.
You know, I have a EJ20 short block that's just taking up space in my friend's garage. It was working just fine until I overheated the damn thing. Of course, this is in CT, you're in FL...
RPSadler wrote: The bearings are breaking down in a last ditch to limp the car into the 200K+ club... sadly, they did not make it
RPSadler wrote: *snip* Well, looks like its time to outsource the build and flush the living be-jesus out of anything oil related. Replaced the oil cooler!!!! Richard
This is not Hot Rod or Car Craft... 
Scott
Where the hell am I supposed to get a piston pin puller at 9 p.m. on a Sunday night?
I totally did use the bottom bar from a plastic coat hanger to drive out the piston pins. I tried a wooden spoon first, but it was a little too large in diameter.
Prognosis: 3 spun rod bearings. Somehow, it's number 4 (the one furthest from the oil pump) that still looks okay. I will have to take it to a machine shop to get the crank inspected, but I'm pretty sure at least one of the connecting rod journals is stretched/ovaled.
Alan Cesar wrote: I totally did use the bottom bar from a plastic coat hanger to drive out the piston pins. I tried a wooden spoon first, but it was a little too large in diameter.
LOL! Love it - keep up the good work, Alan!
skipferry wrote: As a new owner of a 2006 Saab 9-2X (aka Saabaru, only 338 2.5 turbos imported to the US) I was psyched to see a WRX as your new project car. I'm hoping that you will enlighten us about the car's viscous LSDs. I've read that they can go bad in as little as 30K miles. How can they be diagnosed, and what's the best course to follow if their slip has become unlimited?
NASIOC and I-Club would be a perfect place to start since they R160's VLSDs have been in use since 2002 here in the US, and since 1993 elsewhere in the world. VLSD's use heat-activate fluid to transfer motion... you're thinking correctly, thats not a good way to go about it... Front is open, center is VLSD (you're basically stuck unless you'd like to have DCCD, still very similar), rear is VLSD so you have two OEM options for the rear-end:
Mechanical or clutch style - both are available exclusively overseas in R160 housings (ie bolt in)... although you can take a rear differential (not the case, the actual diff) from a SVX or 2004 STi... you still need axles from overseas, but you're on your way.
Richard
PS. Keep it up, but do we have any ideas on the displacement?
It's going to stay a 2-liter unless the block needs to be replaced. It looks like the block is fine. After it's been inspected at the machine shop, I'll know if I need to gain a tiny bit of displacement from an overbore.
RPSadler wrote: VLSD's use heat-activate fluid to transfer motion...
That's not quite correct; the fluid stiffens with shear force, not with heat. I'm not sure what could go wrong with a VLSD since there are no wear surfaces. Does the fluid break down over time or with excessive heat? Is the fluid replacable?
Alan Cesar wrote: Where the hell am I supposed to get a piston pin puller at 9 p.m. on a Sunday night? I totally did use the bottom bar from a plastic coat hanger to drive out the piston pins. I tried a wooden spoon first, but it was a little too large in diameter. Prognosis: 3 spun rod bearings. Somehow, it's number 4 (the one furthest from the oil pump) that still looks okay. I will have to take it to a machine shop to get the crank inspected, but I'm pretty sure at least one of the connecting rod journals is stretched/ovaled.
Take it from me: if a bearing has spun in a rod, do NOT reuse that rod unless it's been resized! Bearings have some 'crush' which is essential to keep it from spinning in the rod. If a bearing has spun, it screws up that 'crush' and the bearing will spin again, usually in the first 50-100 miles. BTDT. If it were me, I'd replace all 4 rods to be on the safe side.
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