In reply to HalfFast :
I'll keep that in mind.
DIY...no. I'd likely spend as much in tools and replacing parts I damage during the process.
In reply to HalfFast :
I'll keep that in mind.
DIY...no. I'd likely spend as much in tools and replacing parts I damage during the process.
So I figured out what that loose wire is on my starter. It's a jumper for the neutral safety lockout. It's supposed to be attached to that spade terminal just below it. I reinstalled the starter this morning and tried to bump it but it wouldn't turn until I connected that wire. So unless that terminal sees B+, it's not going to spin the starter. I guess I must have knocked the wire loose when I was fumbling around trying to remove the starter.
I was looking at my exhaust center section again and noticed that it looks very "stock," for lack of a better word. These bends don't look like the kind of bends your average muffler shop would do. Can normal mandrel bending achieve bends like this with no wall distortion in 3" exhaust tube? There are no welds anywhere.
I'm just wondering if this is a "standard" set of pipes that can be ordered pre-bent off the shelf.
In reply to jimgood :
My exhaust fabricator says these bends are possible with a mandrel bender.
In reply to HalfFast :
That's good to know. One of my main disappointments in this car is that the exhaust is steel and rusting. I may talk to the shop I used for my e36. The job they did was very reasonable, though they made the thing one piece from the headers to the tail pipe.
Number 3 spark plug is giving me problems. It's pointing directly at the header pipe and is only about 3/4" away from it. No way to get a socket on it. Does anyone know if there's a special socket for tight clearances like this? I'm thinking something that is 5/8" on the inside with a hex on the other end that one could put a wrench on. If I had a bandsaw, I'd make one.
I did find this: https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/wrenchin-wednesday-high-clearance-spark-plug-sockets-for-tight-spaces/
But I don't think that will work as there still won't be quite enough clearance. I might try it though.
Drill out the backside of a shallow socket to make a pass though for the porcelain, then weld a handle on. Essentially a super offset box end wrench
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I was thinking of something like that but instead of a handle, weld a nut on it and then drill it out for the porcelain to pass through. Something like this:
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I can't believe something like this doesn't already exist.
In reply to jimgood :
Duh. Passthrough sockets. I need to look through my tools. I think I have a set.
EDIT: I do but it's metric.
I realized that even a passthrough socket isn't going to clear this thing so...
I cut about 3/4" off an old deep well socket. Welded a 3/8" nut to the cut end. Chamfered the edges of the nut and ground off my welds so I'd have flats to get on it with a wrench.
Then I needed to drill it out for better clearance. I was afraid that just clamping it straight in a vise it would just spin because a 1/2" drill bit can hang up pretty good. Instead, I clamped a 7/16" nut and bolt (5/8" bolt head) then set the socket onto that for drilling.
It worked but access was still limited. I had to reach through the headers to get any access with the wrench. I think Michael's idea of welding a handle onto the socket would work better. It would have to be bent away from the head for clearance while putting it on the spark plug. I'll revisit this. As it was, I could only get about 1/6 of a turn with the wrench. It took a good 10 minutes to get the spark plug out.
Here's how the socket fits over the spark plug. And a close up of the plug. It's pretty clean. Just some rust on the tip of the threads.
Got the trans all buttoned up and back in the car. Then I stripped the lower right trans-to-bell housing threads. Someone else must have started the process because it didn't take much torque for it to let go. 
And, yes, I started it with my fingers and seemed okay.
It's going to need either a new bell housing ($585.73) or a helicoil (never done one so some research, my labor and a few bucks). Before I go that route, I might try a longer bolt and see if it can catch more threads.
I'm a big fan of Time-sert's especially for through hole thread repairs. They can't be pushed through the other side of the hole.
In reply to HalfFast :
Thanks for the tip. I didn't know about those. They sound like a better solution for anything that might be fastened/unfastened repeatedly.
Did some more research and found similar product that's less fiddley and has better longevity than helicoils. It's keylocking threaded inserts. They use a standard drill/tap for the hole. You can install them with your fingers. Then the only special tool needed is a driver to drive the locking keys down. The tool is relatively inexpensive and usually fits two or three sizes of inserts.
https://www.blindrivetsupply.com/marsonthinwallkeyserts.html
Video of the install process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyCTh23Z6o0
The only problem is that the supplier above doesn't have the size I need (1/2-13). But I think I can find another source.
Could you just up size the hole and re-tap it or is there not enough surrounding material?
In reply to BKO5 :
I probably could. But I'd have to drill the transmission too. That feels wrong.
I ordered a set of keylocking threaded inserts from McMaster ($21.55 for a set of four with the tool). https://www.mcmaster.com/92070A370/
If you buy the inserts separately, they're $5 for a pack of four. Then the tool will set you back $21.13. So the kit linked above is a better deal if you need the tool.
So now I'll have to pull the trans again. But now that I've done it, it's going to take half an hour instead of half a day, unless that stripped bolt gives me trouble coming back out.
I also ordered a universal muffler to see if I can quiet this thing down a little. I haven't ordered any tubing yet because I want to figure out the best placement for it. My goal is to be able to swap it out easily for the current one so I can go for a test drive without the neighbors calling the cops (had that happen once before with the e36).
I have one of these on standby in case I need to quiet it down Vortex insert
HalfFast said:I have one of these on standby in case I need to quiet it down Vortex insert
Dude! I should have asked you before I pulled the trigger! Oh, well.
Words to live by
Just for completeness, here's the muff I ordered:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-633000
It's pretty compact and, at 45 bucks, it's worth a shot.
If this is just for temp use when starting the motor at home, add a 90, and plop it onto the exhaust exit and safety wire it in place
In reply to HalfFast :
That's about the plan. The way the exhaust is routed, it may be a straight shot from the last piece (see above photo) to the exit. I have to look at it again. The more difficult thing is the existing "muffler" is wrapped and sits in a space between a vertical interior panel and the door panel where the exit is. It's kind of trapped in there so I have to unwrap it to get it out.
And safety wire? Hah. The current exhaust just sits there. But it would probably be a good idea to do that.
There was a guy with an obnoxious Rx7 that has an add on muffler he used in the paddock and when at home.
Another more expensive option is a supertrapp tip. Easy on and off, and small enough to do what you're doing
Supertrapp muffler
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