Sneak peek. Many more pix and progress to follow tomorrow evening. I would like to get all of the interior panels completed tomorrow and start on the side intrusion bars. Can’t call them door bars if there are no doors.
Sneak peek. Many more pix and progress to follow tomorrow evening. I would like to get all of the interior panels completed tomorrow and start on the side intrusion bars. Can’t call them door bars if there are no doors.
Back at it again. It takes A LOT longer to make aluminum interior panels than I remembered. It’s been a few years, but to avoid mistakes, I bought a bunch of poster board and made templates rather than wasting aluminum. No dzus springs installed yet as I don’t want them in before the chassis gets painted, so the panels are “loose” and taped into position.
The dash will hold 7 gauges total. A 5.5” tachometer then a bunch of 2-5/8” gauges(oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, volts, front brake pressure and rear brake pressure). I will add a shift light as well as a low oil pressure warning light eventually.
Does anyone know if I can just use regular Rustoleum satin clear on the aluminum panels to keep them look9ng decent?
Next order of business was to get going on the side intrusion bars.
After that I added a few small diagonal braces at the upper corners of the A-pillar bars. The ones in the plane of the roof are more of a handle to help get in and out of the seats.
After everything was welded in place, I bent up 2 more bars and fitted them. One in the center of the “windshield” and one in the center of the “roof”. Here is where I need some input from you guys. When my brother was over the other day and we discussed the placement of these 2 particular bars. His thought was NOT to put them in, while I thought that they should be. My thinking is that the “windshield” opening is so big, that in the event of an incident/impact to the upper corner, the whole thing might “rack” a bit and any additional bracing(diagonal would obviously be best) would reduce that effect. I was going to put a “V” in that plane, but didn’t want to restrict vision. To this point, they are just tacked-in and can be easily removed. What’s your suggestion? So far it’s 1 for and 1 against. I’d also like any additional suggestions about the cage design and what else anyone thinks needs to be added. One suggestion by a friend was adding another vertical bar between the rocker and the middle horizontal intrusion bar at the rear of the “door opening”.
Real basic understanding of roll cages from me, but I know you can’t do the green markup in the below picture. What about the red?
My original idea was to do an “X” in the roof plane until I figured out that was how I was going to enter/exit the car! The window opening is way too small, so in and out the top it will be unfortunately. I probably made the main hoop a few inches too short which has a whole trickle-down effect as the project moves forward.
In reply to lotusseven7 :
Oh lol well yeah that idea is out then! And while I’ve taken my statics classes, I don’t know the ins and outs of cages so I’ll let the more experienced reply to you!
Well, after over a year away from this project, it's time to bring it back up and explain what's going on.
It looks like we are selling the building where my shop is and I'm going to have to move out. Not fun, but business is business and it's time to move on. Here is a thread with a bit of an explanation. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/need-opinion-keeping-project-cars-renting-a-shop-o/163405/page2/#post2930602
Ive decided that this needs to go and I want to see if there is any interest in it. I'm going to put it in the "cars for sale" section and see how it goes. Wish me luck.........
I've had no luck with any serious buyers for the CK(Corvette Kart), so I'm going to take small steps to get it finished. I met with the engine builder yesterday and put together a plan for what parts will go into the engine. I'm shooting for a true 500rwhp regardless of how long it takes to save up the $$$ to get to that goal. I gave him an old "010" 4-bolt block to pressure test and it passed with flying colors, so that will be the basis for the build. I also have a set of DART Pro1 aluminum heads which should support the HP number that I'm shooting for.
The next part that needs to be ordered is a rotating assembly. The builder told me that a cast crank can do what I want but a 4340 crank is good insurance for 7000+ RPM in a roadrace car. It's more $$$, but I think in the long run will be worth the additional costs. Compression ratio will be somewhere between 11 and 11.5-1 so I can get away with a mix of pump and race gas. I really don't want to have to run straight race gas if I don't have to.
I need a bit of advise from the GRM community on what intake system to use. I have a Victor Jr manifold but not sure whether to go with a good old carb or spend the $$$ for a fuel injection setup. I'm more of an old-school mechanic and prefer to work on carburetors, but I'm wondering if a fuel injection set up would be easier and make more power? I'm not much of a computer person as far as tuning goes but my understanding isn't that these FI systems are "self teaching" and almost idiot proof. Does anybody have any first hand experience using a FI system on a SBC and can give me some advise? If I go carb, it will be a Holley as I've worked with them before but not in a racing application, just street cars.
Anyone with carb vs FI advise?
No updates on the Kart or building situation, but I was able to grab another piece of the ultimate puzzle. I did a small welding job for a customer and used the $$$ to buy a carb to use. She's a beauty and should be more than enough for the power we plan to make. Looks like I'm going carb vs FI.
This has been sitting in the corner of my building since I've moved. I haven't touched it quite some time and with the purchase of the vintage Spitfire race car, I'm going to focus my time & efforts on getting that ready for this upcoming race season. I'm bumping this here in case someone might be interested and I'm going to post in on a few FB groups.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask here and I'll let you know how it got to this point.
Listed in the for sale section.
You'll need to log in to post.