very, very cool. Did you race the V12 Etype? Still have it?
very, very cool. Did you race the V12 Etype? Still have it?
In reply to erdocmitch :
No was forced to sell due to the 2008 recession and cancer of my late wife. Sold a lot to keep afloat ( including the Black Jack Special ) but kept a few things 
I recently bought a $500 rust free V12 XJS to race. So most of the knowledge won't go to waste.
Wow. I appreciate communicating with you. Keep it coming!
Following
In reply to erdocmitch :
I've been racing Jaguars since the late 1960's I raced a Jaguar XK150 in SCCA Dp
Actually I started with the Black Jack spl in 1962. Long story but I started working on that car then.
I race them because they give me the most performance for the least cost.
For example early in Chump Cars history I built a JaguarXJS V12 to race it. the rule then was you could race any car you could document cost less than $500
Mine I was able to swap the automatic for a 4 speed. And put two used Saab turbo's on it. Came darn close to 500 horsepower. When I ran it by the tech inspectors they explained about penalty laps. So I sold it. But my point is Jaguar's offer high value as race cars at a low cost.
This is me racing the cream of Vintage racing. I'm in car#5 the Black Jack spl next to me is David Love's Ferrari Testa Rossa Behind him is the Winner of the 1956 LeMans followed by another Ferrari Testa Rossa etc etc
In reply to frenchyd :
If your intention is to race your Jaguar follow the advice and experience of the factory.
Every Jaguar race car since 1954 has been dry sumped. It's not optional. Nor does it make extra power. What it does is keep you from having to rebuild the engine after every single race weekend.
You can't baffle, swing pick up, accusump, over fill, use a bigger aftermarket oil pump or trick your way around this.
What happens is with racing tires, and braking under racing conditions, the hot oil slides forward up into the timing chain area. The oil pickup goes dry and for many revolutions no oil gets pumped into the bearings etc.
Its made worse by the hard cornering needed in racing. There oil will slide up the side of the engine, again away from the oil pickup.
Dry sumps are expensive but worlds cheaper than rebuilding the engine. There are ways to cut some of the costs, most pumps work just fine. Some tanks are better than others, but they all do what you need them to do.
Crank scrappers ( and there is a company in Florida that makes good ones both for the Old Iron Six , The V12 and every Jaguar. ). All crank scrapers need final fitting where you shave just enough to exactly fit your engine. But they are well worth the cost.
I tried for over a year. I had my oiling system tuned up. I'd start the weekend with 125 PSI oil pressure and watch the oil pressure drop to zero in the hard long corners. When it came back it was just a little lower and my oil temp was hotter.
The last race Of the weekend I'd start out with 30- maybe 40 PSI and cross the finish line shoving the clutch in and shutting off the motor out of fear.
Group 44 built their V12 and went to test their swing pickup in a few laps they shut it off and went back and put a dry sump on. So did Huffaker
I used a 4 stage Weaver pump and have ever since.
but Peterson makes good pumps as well. I don't know of European pumps nor have I looked for newer options. I like being able to trust what works.
You don't need to pay new prices for them. NASCAR's top teams use a pump for two races and then sell them.
Generally you have to know somebody but occasionally they come up for sale on Racing Junk. Com. Same with oil tanks. Those aren't considered wear items. But they do become available.
The plumbing is straight forward. Basically one section of the pump is pressure and that's obvious. But 2 or 3 sections are scavage. I put inline oil filters in each to protect the oil cooler. Then from the oil tank to the pressure section I use 2 Fram HP 1 oil filters on a remote mount. ( they are the only filter I found that could reliably deal with the high pressure involved ). Obviously the stock oil pump is removed although I'm seeing a few guys use the late pump pulling from the tank. Saving a section. Just using the dry sump for scavage. I don't know how well that's working. It's not what the pros do.
So I am following all your advice. #1 oil pan
# 2 SCAVANGE Pick ups
#3 oil tank Thanks to my good friend Kip on doing the homework on this tank from Speedway motors. I'm planning on dressing it up a bit for a more period correct look. More to come on that when I get the bits and pieces together.
#4 DRY SUMP PUMP
I didn't realize a whole month passed! Work can really interfere with hobbies! I'm going to make it a point to get out in the garage at least for an hour a day to get this (and other) projects moving along. More to come.
This car is gorgeous! Can't wait to see more.
That oil tank is period correct for anything American made since WW2. Unfortunately for appearance, the English did it a little different. It is not an era thing it is an engineering culture thing!
Turner X19
Can you tell me more about that? Love to hear your insights...
Most importantly the English were very slow to take up TIG welding. A tank like this would have been constructed using eutectic filler rod carbon arc torch brazing well into the 1990s. No removable top either. Your tank is a vast improvement there. Cap would have been either a C&S brand bayonet similar to Lotus Twin Cam valve cover cap, or a female thread cap. Conical bottom with the outlet centered (er centred) probable as well. Also the stainless button cap screw would have been black oxide, or hex head cad plate. Photo is a recently constructed visual duplicate of McRae GM1 F5000. TIG welded of course, cause made in the USA. Held on to chassis with Breeze clamp.
Thank you -Great education.
I'm going to make it look like an American made it in the 196o's, as best I can. It should at least look cool. I did some test polishing- seems to work.
In reply to erdocmitch :
Looks very similar to what mine was.
erdocmitch said:#4 DRY SUMP PUMP
Careful alignment is absolutely critical. Not an area to be casual 1/10 of a degree off and the drive belt will want to flip off. But it needs to swing in an arch in order to retighten the belt once it stretches.
The good news is if it's right the belt will last and last. I finally chickened out and bought a replacement. Not because there was anything wrong but just because it had been in place for so many years.
Thank you- Always appreciate advice! I am learning tons!
I had to do a lot of searching to find a mandrel that worked with my ATI harmonic balancer and clear the crank bolt.
1) I milled off about 3/8" off the front of the bolt to allow more clearance
2) Turned down the edge of the mandrel on my lathe to index it into the balancer.
3) Awaiting more parts this week to make it all work...
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