In reply to DanielCut :
Certainly. Send me a PM with your address and we can go from there.
I'm sure you've seen Clarks-Garage (RIP) already, but if not here's some info on some suspension options for the 944:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-15.htm
and here's some info from the 924 folks on suspension upgrades without the Porsche pricing:
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=25272
MK1 Golf struts fit in the front, along with the control arm bushings. Box the steel control arms to improve their strength, increase the diameter of the mounting bolts for the balljoints for safety. Find a set of longer balljoints or balljoint extenders for the 17mm Golf balljoints to keep the geometry relatively sane on a lowered car. Swaybar braces help for the front and aren't expensive to buy, or build. Dont' bother with cheap camber plates, they reduce suspension travel and bind, neither of which are desired. Use the stock ones there's very little rubber in them, slot the struts/use smaller bolts to gain the camber you need.
There was an optional rear swaybar for the later 944S that is the largest fitted from the factory and its available from the factory brand new for about $130 including the bushings, etc. Front swaybar can be the 968 M030 piece (if you can find it, otherwise it should be available from the factory).
A thinner MLS headgasket can up the compression a little and give you a little bit of power, probably not a bad idea to refresh some things before abusing it, especially the front of the engine service.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/repair-procedure-index4.htm
Or add a cheap Mercedes C-class supercharger plus a MegaSquirt 1 install with a thicker HG can get you a few ponies as well and keep detonation at bay a bit. The trick is getting the ignition system swapped over to something that MS can control (add a trigger wheel to the blower pulley, control the stock coil with an ignition driver added using MegaSquirt Extra code). Higher flowing injectors can be swapped in from nearly anything from the time period using Bosch style injectors. Adjustable fuel regulators are also available for that style rail. Then its all about tuning. On the plus side, you'll lose the MAF and can simplify the engine bay/intake tubing.
Weight loss is where you'll see gains for cheap at the expense of comfort. Replace the windows with lexan/plexi, the hatch is heavy and can be molded carefully using a heat gun, the rest more or less can be cut to fit. Ditch the power windows/door panels and make your own RS style solution. Replace the front seats with lightweight racing style buckets (911 seats are a direct bolt in, so are many racing seats with side mounts), ditch the rear seats. Gut and trim the dash to just the driver's side. Remove the sound padding/carpeting and excess wiring. Convert to fixed headlights/remove the headlight motor and headlight bar, there are DIY plans around on how to do this (example: use the stock headlight covers as molds for plastic lenses in your oven with sandbags to mold them once warmed).
I do have some 5x130 to 5x120/4.75 wheel adapters that might help you fit BMW or Corvette and similar wheels instead of paying the Porsche tax for drag race wheels or autocross wheels/tires.