Could be the shift linkage (Shift shaft) seal. I need to replace the one on my truck too. Fluid just piddles out, i replace it when it gets low and it piddles out some more.. 
Could be the shift linkage (Shift shaft) seal. I need to replace the one on my truck too. Fluid just piddles out, i replace it when it gets low and it piddles out some more..
Could be the tailshaft seal. I also had the vacuum modulator go bad, but it just sucked the ATF into the carb. Always low on transmission fluid, engine oil was always over-full, hmmm.
I've had the dipstick tube leak a lot also.
Tony Sestito said:That high-compression V8 sound with long tubes is just the bee's knees.
Wait, high compression? (First-time caller, long-time listener on this thread).
In reply to DarkMonohue :
Yes, high compression.
.060-over Pontiac 400 with giant domed forged Speed Pro pistons and #96 heads from a 1971 GTO. I think it's around 9.3:1. A stock 400 from 1974 (which this was based on) was around 7.9:1. Basically, I told the builder that I want to get as much out of it on pump gas and stay streetable. I was chasing HP figures and being dumb when I built it. Should be good for around 400hp with the cam that's in it. I would have built it much differently if I did it today. Hell, it would probably just have a big LS if I did it today.
So, thinking about all the transmission leaking issues...
Waaaaaay back when the car was still running around with the 403, I used to have an issue where trans fluid would puke up through the dipstick tube. This would make a mess and smoke a lot, obviously. I read back then that it could have either been caused by a plugged vent or the vacuum modulator going bad. I bought a modulator, but never installed it. When I pulled the 403 out and swapped in the 400, I cleaned the vent then, which was clogged with grease and gunk. The problem seemed to go away after that. Also, this would only happen when it was running.
I'm thinking that I should snag all the O-rings, grommets, and seals, grab that modulator I bought 20 years ago, and schedule some lift time at my friend's place and just replace all of that.
I found this kit on the Jungle Website that seemingly comes with ALL the seals for an affordable price, so I'll have to schedule some lift time to get this done. I mean, it has to be one of these, right?
RIGHT???
Great to see this back in service! I was following this one when you first started cutting the floors. 2nd gen F-bodies (mostly Camaros) were the bulk of what I learned to do rust repair and body work on in the late 1900's. 😅 Catching up on this thread I'm realizing how much I forgot about them since then.
I just wanted to say "Thanks a lot" for sharing those Sparcos. The herringbone pattern ones just nail the aesthetic I'm after in my wagon, and I needed something out of budget to lust after in vain. lol
In reply to Tony Sestito :
We ran T350's for 2 seasons on our circle track car and pan leaks were a constant struggle.
We eventually resorted to RTVing the paper gaskets to the pan on the bench (and letting it cure) then copper coat spray on the trans and the other side of the gasket, and that solved just in time for a manual swap.
We also ran a reinforced pan with a +/- 3/16 metal strip on the bolt side of the flange. Want to say it was a Milodon product. Otherwise even a tiny bit over torqued and the pan would distort and leak between the bolt holes. So I guess make sure your pan is dead flat and maybe use a torque wrench + RTV.
Later when I got my Kingswood Estate with a T350 I used the same RTV/Copper coat procedure with a stock pan without issue unless I over torqued it.
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