Well, I can pick up a 2L for around $800 where I live at a wreckers that should work nicely. Right now it's simply identifying how much it'll cost me. I can do up the interior and do some other mods later on. as long as theres enough room for some minor engine mods I'll be happy. How much has this costed you currently if you dont mind me asking? just the engine swap for the moment. The issue for me might be having to pay labor since I don't have the tools or experience to do this myself
In reply to Bobby2000 :
I got my wreck for $700 which gave me lots of good bit to work with. Extractors were 300, about 400 on gasket kits, thermostat, timing belt, water pump.
The challenge for cost will be engine management. I'm looking at microsquirt and guessing around 700 will sort that. Probably 400 for the exhaust parts.
If you stick with a getz gearbox I think you'll need a mitsubishi clutch to make it work.
Bear in mind I haven't actually done this conversion yet. I've made a bunch of assumptions and am taking my time, enjoying making things far more complex than they have to be.
And just like that the brake upgrade is on!
oooooh, shiny!
In reply to ill_climber :
Details? Is this a parts bin upgrade (Like the Elantra using Sonata V6 rotors and Tiburon calipers/pads)?
In reply to bobzilla :
It consists of Honda Accord euro 4cyl calipers. These need a tiny relief ground in the bracket and a trimming of the backing plate. Rotors are 280mm Renault Megane with 1mm extra centre bore and 5mm off the diameter. Cost me $170 all up, wrecking yard calipers had new metal pads in them!
Minor update of my minor progress.
Things have been pretty slow with life getting in the way. I have managed to do some sub assembly of engine bits and narrow down on some specs. I measured my cams and they will be going as I have found what I need aftermarket. Not the cheapest but should see 200hp or possibly more. Also have decided on 1.8 pistons with new rings to bump the compression. Engine will run on 98 octane fuel for simplicity over the limited benefits of an e85/flex setup.
To help progress the head and manifold work I've picked up an electric die grinder so I can do some work at home rather than travelling an hour each way to the workshop where the car is.
Hey there ill_climber.
Just thought I would let you know how my Beta sway is going, Hopefully it Getz you more motivated.
So its mostly together and runs. I took it for a test drive yesterday down my street and back with no issues.
There's a couple of things I still need to modify but they will have to wait until after Christmas/ New Years because I have other things I need to work on.
Have you got much more done on yours?
Is that a bucket style cam and lifter setup?
Hydraulic or solid?
In reply to Suprf1y :
Bucket, solid with shims. They start to tick with age (over 150k miles) but slightly thicker oil helps (10-30 for winter, 5-40 for summer).
In reply to ill_climber :
Cams were always the limiting factor in NA Beta setups.
If he wants to do something about the cam situation I can probably help
In reply to Kenzza :
Great to hear. How does it go?
So progress has been terribly slow with Christmas, work, doing some mods to my daily etc.
But I have managed to get on with the head porting as I bought an electric die grinder so I can do the work at home.
I picked up a set of factory rear disks including the park brake cables and hard lines.
The old engine is nearly out. I can't pull it completely out until I have the new one back together.
I found a supplier for billet cams in Australia that can ship. Not too cheap but by the time I need them the budget should allow it and the only set I have found to suit the vvt. Current plan is to run stock injectors and cams with adjustable cam wheels, no vvt until I get the hang of tuning my engine management.
In reply to Suprf1y :
Tell me more...
I've actually made some progress worth posting about.
Firstly my rear brake upgrade. As I mentioned previously, I picked up a set of factory disks from a later 1.6 Getz. As seems to be the trend for me, it included brand new pads. Everything I needed for $152. I spent some time over the weekend cleaning up the parts and painting the calipers and disc hats to match the front. The disk setup uses drum hand brake section with different cables and completely different routing of the brake lines. Fortunately I have all the tabs on my shell to fit it, but I had to remove the hard lines all the way to the firewall. I should get these fitted up shortly.
Secondly, I've finished the port work on the head and manifolds. Inlet has been match ported. This week it will be off to the machine shop for valves seats and a skim to bump the compression. I wrapped some electrical tape around two of the studs to hold the manifold in a repeatable central position and marked with bearing blue. Handily the inlet ports are straight enough you can see the interface too. Exhaust manifold was matched on the gasket and so far from right I'm wishing I'd just made them from scratch as I also will be rebuilding the bottom half of them too.
Next I'll order some pistons and rings so the engine can go back together. Hopefully I'll start work on my adjustable timing gears and vvt delete this week too.
More progress
Rear disc conversion is assembled and back on. Just need to connect the lines and cables and give it a bleed. While I was under the car removing the old brakes I removed the exhaust system, harvested it's hangers before chucking it in the bin.
I ordered my pistons and new rings. They happened to be on sale the day I rang. Only $85 for the lot. These are from a 1.8 beta engine so the bump across the centre is 1mm higher. I'll be checking actual compression and valve to piston clearance before final assembly.
I started working on my first cam adjuster. This one sits in place of the vvt actuator and allows adjustment of the cam lobe centres. Been years since I used a lathe but i think it worked out nicely. I need to drill a hole for the cam dowell and 4 curved slots for the adjusting bolts. I'm planning on doing these without an indexing head, see how that goes. Might also drill some weight out of it too.
Made an account just to comment on this thread. Been loving the build so far, been following since it started. I'm interested in doing a similar swap in the future, but I'd also try and get the rest of an evo's driveline thrown in there too! What races are you planning on putting this build into? And what mounts are you planning to use to get the engine in the car? Goodluck with the build!
In reply to tvtom99 :
Evo driveline could be fun, I'm aiming more for light and simple.
I'm building the car for Hill climb. Would also look at rally sprints, autokhana, track days, maybe even stage rally. Pretty much anywhere cheap that'll have me. Would be looking to knock off Civic type r's and Fiesta ST's and the odd WRX
Main Engine and gearbox mounts will be from the donor Elantra with fabbed brackets, possibly in urethane. The lower mount will be a beefed up version of what the Getz has, I'm thinking with rod ends and reinforced cross member. The Getz has no provisions for the 4th mount.
Sounds exciting! Super keen to see how this build pans out. I was planning to use the Elantra mounts too, hope they're easy enough to use!
Bit more work over the weekend.
My head is back from being machined a getting the valves done. Started by double checking my manifold allignment with the ports. This resulted in more work on the extractors but they should be good now. Gave everything a good clean an put valves back in.
Next will be get the pistons in and measure the compression ratio.
I removed the old rear brake hard lines with a couple of helpers. This is when I discovered a minor issue. My old lines run from the very back of the car to the master. The ones from the donor car run to a junction block at the base of the firewall. I'll pick up the junction block and short front section lines next time I'm at the wrecking yard.
The new pipes route differently on the rear "axle". It allowed me to chop off 3 unused brackets for added lightness. Now I have the handbrake working again and the rear wheels back on.
Awesome!
More progress. I'm on a roll. I had a brief dabble under the bonnet to label and remove the engine wiring, then I got stuck in to the engine. Gearbox came back off again and then the clutch.
Next was sump off. Reasonable to suggest that this engine has missed a few oil changes. The sump has a small baffle which i will augment while its off.
Cleaned the sump mounting face up and the deck too. Replaced the front crank seal and inspected the crank sensor chopper wheel. It's a 60-2, so should be a good clean signal. Then pistons out ready for a hone. Crank and bearings look pretty good for 200,000ks.
Measured new pistons vs old and the size is right, good news. I've never balanced engine parts before so this was new to me. Weighed everything up, then again without the gudgeon pins. Gudgeon pins are all exactly the same weights. Pistons were not. Turns out 2.6 grams is a lot to grind off with a dremel. All done now to within .1 grams.
Next up I pressed the rods off the old pistons and weighed the rods. All within .1 grams. I tried weighing each end but found I had poor repeatability with my setup so elected to leave the rods as they were.
Next time will be new pistons on rods, hone the bores and assemble. Then I can check my compression ratio and valve to piston clearance to decide if I machine the head further.
OK, so now the lockdown thing is happening it's made my recent progress all but stop. Not having the workshop at home means no access for who knows how long. I did manage to pick up a tub of parts and tools to make some progress.
I needed a MAP and IAT sensor to run the management on my new engine which originally had airflow sensor. The old 1.5 engine in my car has these sensors so I stole it from there. The sensors are cleverly integrated as one unit. Hyundai seem to like this sort of thing, the ECT and coolant gauge sender are one unit too.
I picked a spot on the plenum, set up in the drill press and punched some holes in. The plenum here is much thinner than where the sensor originally was installed so I moved the o ring up t the shoulder and machined a rebate for the o ring to seal. Tapped the holes to m6 and jobs done.
Up next is more miracles from the drill press
Onto the drill press miracles.
A while back I started making my vvt delete/cam lobe seperation angle adjuster on the lathe out of a chunk of 10mm plate. I had been waiting to mill the slots into it to complete the job.
First step was to mark it up, drill the dowell hole and mark the timing neutral point.
As I don't have a mill or a rotating head, I figured I could make the drill press do what I needed. Plan was to mount my plate up concentric with the table pivot on the drill, off set the cutter and use the table pivot as a rotating head. In short, it worked.
Took me a while to figure out a technique and if I went slowly enough I could get an accurate enough result given the flex present in the drill.
Next is to machine away some more weight and make it look pretty
You'll need to log in to post.
