Tuning lesson #1 Was sensor calibration is critical. I didn't pick up on this initially. I used generic sensor values and figured incorrectly it would be ok. I removed the coolant and IAT sensors and checked the resistance readings in water at different temps. This helped a lot. I managed to find the calibration info for the MAP sensor I was using too.
Tuning lesson #2 heat soak
Still I had an issue with air temp correction leaning out the engine, particularly if the car had been parked or in slow traffic. I eventually tracked the issue down to heat soak. The intake pipe is steel and would get warmer than the air within it and affect the IAT reading. I extended the harness and moved the sensor to near the filter in the front of the car. Problem solved.
I have about 600km on the car now and am starting to get more comfortable with where the tune is at. The only real outstanding things is to get the idle control to work and sort out cold starting. I have slowly been adding timing to the tune as well. I'll wait to get it on a dyno before I go further.
The car is an absolute riot to drive, I don't have a lot to compare it to but I would say it is quicker than the Turbo Forester I had. I've entered it in a hill climb event this Saturday so will see how it goes.
Good luck with the event, eager to see how it goes! Do you have a gopro or something set up in the car , i find it helpful to analyse my lines and compare to my partners runs/times.
In reply to DaewooOfDeath :
So....if I were to pick up a Hyundai Accent/Kia Rio would I be able to duplicate most of what ill_climber has done with bolt in stuff available in America?
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:
In reply to DaewooOfDeath :
So....if I were to pick up a Hyundai Accent/Kia Rio would I be able to duplicate most of what ill_climber has done with bolt in stuff available in America?
The Rio and Accent are the next size up platform from a Getz. People definitely beta swap them but it is different to what I've done here. I believe it's easier.
I have completed my first event. It was a come and try day at a local track here in the hills. It was my first ever proper motorsport event and first time I've really pushed hard in a fwd car.
I made 6 runs and improved my time by a couple of seconds. Had an off and a badly missed gear change too.
Car ran really well, which I'm happy with given the short amount of time I had to tune it. I need more grip as the car would easily understeer with throttle applied and had a lot of wheelspin in the top section of the track.
ill_climber said:
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:
In reply to DaewooOfDeath :
So....if I were to pick up a Hyundai Accent/Kia Rio would I be able to duplicate most of what ill_climber has done with bolt in stuff available in America?
The Rio and Accent are the next size up platform from a Getz. People definitely beta swap them but it is different to what I've done here. I believe it's easier.
Correct, it can be easier depending on the platform you start with.
So it's been a while since my last post.
I did another event at the same hillclimb as the first. It was a warmish day and managed to improve my time from 41.27 at the previous event to 39.96. The only change to the car was some work on the tune which improved driveability and response. We did run into a little trouble missing shifts caused by my custom gear cables. I elected not to do my final run to make sure I could get home. 2 days later on a trip to the shops the cable snapped.
So now I've got a little list of jobs for the upcoming season. Will redo the gear cables. I want to change away from the long intake pipe and cheap pod filter to an airbox. Will fit a catch can and have to move the battery.
Updates coming soon.
So first I tackled my gearshift cable issue. I went through my spare bits from the initial build to remember why I ended up modifying the cables. THe cables were the wronf length when fitted to the Elantra bracket. They were close when fitted to the Getz bracket but that bracket wouldnt fit due to it hitting the starter motor. I wanted to use stock cables again so I modified the getz bracket to clear the starter and fitted new replacement cables. Gearshift feels much smoother now so will see how it oes on the road later.
Next job was battery relocation. I ran the cables back trough the firewall using cable glands where the AC pipes once lived. I made a bunch of cable clamps on the 3D printer and installed them onto nutserts in the floor. I fabbed up and alloy battery tray to mount the gel battery behind the passenger seat. Pretty happy with how this has turned out. Has also saved me at least 7 kilos!
New wheels arrived. These are 15x7 instead of 16x6.5 on the car currently. They are decently light at 7.3kg each and were cheap because of the colour. I've dropped them off to be shod with sticky 195/50 tyres. Just waiting for adapter rings and wheel nuts. This should make a big difference to my times but may further highlight the shortcomings in my suspension.
So wheels are back on with tyres now. Pretty happy with how it looks and having driven it can report lots more grip too.
The airbox was going to be a challenge. I pondered several oem possibilities and realised custom was the only way out. Mainly due to limited space getting past the coil packs and brake master to the throttle body. I had a 4x8 inch k&n pod filter from an old project so used that as my start point and set about fabrication of an alloy airbox.
First step was to cut out the original battery support. I overachieved a bit with the spot weld drill but the bracket is gone.
I drew a design on the computer based on measuring the available space and then transferred the design to 2mm alloy. This was my first decent part made from alloy. I've been practising the tig quite a bit. I built the basic box shape and then had to make a complex shaped funnel to connect the filter to the Inlet hose. To achieve this I 3d printed a buck, took templates from it and formed 2 alloy halves before welding them together.
Of course I managed to over complicate a support bracket too
Airbox progressed to this
I needed a catch can of some description and had one on the shelf left over from the same project the pod filtercame from. Hunting around for a spot to put it was an issue. The only spot with enough room and any kind of access was just in front of the gearbox. So that's where I put it. I chopped off the original bracket and welded on my own.
I have since plummed this in with a small filter in the airbox.
Next is build a lid for the airbox and run the cold air pipe to the bumper.
Been meaning to get this photo for a while, might go back in daylight some time.
In reply to ill_climber :
I had thought there would be a naca duct in the hood and a rubber seal around the box.
Loving this. I'm in Hyundai-Data-Acquisition mode....
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:
Loving this. I'm in Hyundai-Data-Acquisition mode....
This... With the Accent SE thread, makes me want to buy an Accent an Beta swap it
Airbox is all done now. I designed up and printed a bellmouth and elbow arrangement to plumb cold air to the bottom the airbox. It also gave me somewhere to mount the air temp sensor properly. I'm hoping to pick up a few kw with this set-up.
I also mounted my gopro and pulled some more weight out of the interior. I'm about 30kg lighter than last season. First race is Sunday so look out for videos.
So it's been a long time between updates. I've done a handful of events last year. I improved my time at the local hill climb to 38.22, mainly by improving my driving. I entered Willunga Hillclimb and came 3rd in my category out of 11 cars. Got beaten by a worked ITR just and an RA65 Celica that was crazy fast. This event had a 2.5k long track on a closed road. I was pretty happy formy first attempt.
Since then I've moved house and done a bunch of other life things.
A few months ago I picked up some Coil overs from an AE101 Corolla that I figured I could make work. This week I got the car back in the air and have started work again. I'm hoping the new setup with alignment and roll centre mods will be a step change in grip levels.
I picked up some adjustable bc racing coil overs from marketplace from an AE101 Corolla. These are the 46mm units. The kits available for a getz are much smaller. These also had the spring rates I was looking for. Just have to hope they fit.
For the most part, they fit. Lower mounts bolt straight on, will need a 2mm shim to make up the gap in the clevis. Will need Sway Bar and brake line bracket. I can get 2.5 degrees negative camber.
Upper mounts I'll make something custom to fit to give maximum caster.
The stock rear setup is a separate damper and spring. I pulled that lot out and offered up the bc unit. The top bush was identical dimensions to the original. I will fabricate a spring seat direct on the body to locate the spring and reinforce the structure. Lower mounts ill work out soon but will be a full custom job.
I took some measurements off the upper mounts and drew up some new parts to situate the strut where I wanted it. I printed one out quickly and fitted it all up and checked all the clearances and angles.
This resulted in 6.5deg caster and 2.5deg neg camber. Much better than the 2.5 caster standard. I have ordered nolathane offset bushes for the lca that will give me a further 1.5deg caster.
I'll make a set of top mounts now out of alloy.
So I went down the rabbit hole of roll centre correction on a car that the aftermarket doesn't support. I was aware of circle track ball joints with extended studs that would allow me to push my outer pivot point down and consequently raise the roll centre to back to its pre lowered state. These are not readily available locally but I found the critical dimensions online for some QA1 parts and drew them up in F360 and 3D printed one. The 3D print worked out quite well. I did it as a print in place joint, so the ball and socket actually moved. I initially printed a +1 inch K772 joint. This was externally the most compact and had the correct taper for my upright. As per the below image, it didn't fit. I printed a +0.5 inch and it barely cleared the rim. Hmmm, this was going nowhere fast. I also knew if I did this mod I would be forced to do bump steer correction too so I abandoned the idea for now. When I picked up my standard new ball joint from the parts store, the guy was like "oh, is this for a mitsubishi?" and I was no but it gave me an idea. I need a roll centre correction kit for an Evo 3.....
Anyway my urethane bush kit had shown up so I fitted that and put the LCA's back in the car and changed the sway bar bushes too.
Between my bandsaw, drill press and tig, my new top mounts are now done in 6063. Very happy with how the turned out after a lot of drama chasing a gas leak in the tig torch.
This allowed me to bolt the new struts properly into the car for the first time. Checked all the clearances and worked out where to mount the sway bar link. Final caster at ride height is 6.7 degrees.
In reply to ill_climber :
Nicely done. I always like to see how people fit components from more popular cars to their projects.
