Meet Steve... Steve is the engine assembler @ PER, as you can see he is assembling a couple of SBC.
On the floor in front (follow the "arrow") and the hemi is finally in line for re-assembly.
There is further progress on the valve train - we've dumped the adjustable push rods, for custom length push rods. Only thing still undetermined are the valve springs.......
more to come....
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
I am really looking forward to seeing what you do with this build. I haven't even disassembled mine yet except for the intake mfd. What are your plans for the waterpump? Mine seems good but is 37 years old and has been sitting for decades. I still haven't made the decision on porting or big valves either.
warrenwelder said:In reply to oldeskewltoy :
I am really looking forward to seeing what you do with this build. I haven't even disassembled mine yet except for the intake mfd. What are your plans for the waterpump? Mine seems good but is 37 years old and has been sitting for decades. I still haven't made the decision on porting or big valves either.
Water pump "seems" good. Guessing I can have it pressure tested to be sure.
As far as what my plans for it are - My Mark II
A wee bit of progress... the engine has moved from the floor, to about where the red block SBC is in the previous photo
more to come.....
Exciting!
Did anyone see the Locktite 565 on top of the block??
"LOCTITE® 565 is a white to off-white, 1-part, low strength, high viscosity, anaerobically-cured, methacrylate ester, acrylic thread sealant designed for the locking and sealing of metal pipes and fittings. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration."
We are using this as added insurance to seal the liners to the block.
Speaking about the liners in the block.... today is short block assembly day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Block, pistons w/rods, oil pan, lifter gallys and other 5V-EU parts.....
Piston with rod
I'm expecting more photos soon...........
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
I am really impressed by the car you are building for this engine. I never saw that body style before. I really liked the 5mg engine they had back then. This should be a beautiful car when finished.
My car is a total performance T bucket. I am close to starting on the engine now but started on the body long ago. It was to have a 3t corolla engine and trans but then I saw the 5veu and had to have it.
A bit further......
As this is an aluminum block, there are all kinds of stresses when tightening the main bearings in place, and setting the proper torque. It isn't until after all the mains are fully torqued that the crank turns free. 
Once the crank is in, the pistons follow... Those rods are stout for sure, not a dowel in site - ridges to keep the cap properly aligned.
Remember... those are used bearings..... they look nearly new!
installing pistons on this bank... 2 down... 2 to go.... Looks like we got the deck pretty close
More to come........ 
Well... 7 of 8 made it in... #8 caught the oil ring and damaged it ..... 
I've contacted Traum, another ring is already on the way....... 
oldeskewltoy said:I've contacted Traum, another ring is already on the way.......
... and here it is!
along with the oil ring..... what I believe are the front, and rear main seals also arrived.
So... $700 just spent on a Clutch Masters FX300 Camry clutch (maybe insufficient), and.........
And a slave cylinder from a 2005 Chevy Colorado
Next step is to plan for a remote bleeder - aka similar to the T56 remote bleeder.
so I can mount it all in there........
more to come.....
My main objection to the concentric slave cylinders is that if the hydraulics leak, you have to either pull the motor or the trans to fix it, vs just replacing the slave cylinder from the outside....
In reply to MiniDave :
The nice thing about them is you don't have a clutch fork to add friction. And you don't have a clutch fork to crack. Or a pivot ball to break.
I have suffered enough of the last two that I welcome the mere issue of having to pull the trans to change a slave cylinder.
RE: Colorado slave. Go over to Fabbot Fabrication and get a speed bleeder and a braided clutch line that gets rid of the big Chev fitting.
MiniDave said:My main objection to the concentric slave cylinders is that if the hydraulics leak, you have to either pull the motor or the trans to fix it, vs just replacing the slave cylinder from the outside....
Having worked on SAABs for a number of years.... I'm familiar with the concentric slave, and I'm not a huge fan either... but if you noticed, there isn't any other option inside an automatic bell housing.
interesting....... for the 2 AR5s......
Chevy Colorado...... $85 - $100 (one exception OEM $167)
Solstice/Sky..... $133-$168
The Solstice/Sky model does not have a bleeder. Additionally, the clocking/position of the slave changes depending on the model.
RE: "Teeth" on connecting rods, Crank won't turn until torque sequence is properly completed- Fascinating.
This build is gold for the "LS swaps are boring" crowd. Super Cool
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
In theory, if the inlet is pointed straight up, the slave is self bleeding. Fluid goes in, air comes out.
In practice, you'd really want some way of bleeding the line because the slave sometimes does not have enough volume to push the air all the way back to the master. A simple three way NPT tee with hardline to NPT adaptors in the ends and a NPT bleeder (like many Wilwoods etc have) in the leg, or whatever geometry works best to put the bleeder at the highest point, will accomplish this.
Having a dry break fitting near the trans makes servicing a heck of a lot easier, too.
oldeskewltoy said:So... $700 just spent on a Clutch Masters FX300 Camry clutch (maybe insufficient), and.........
So a 1986 Camry with its 2S-E engine produces somewhere around 122-128 pound feet of torque. The Clutch Master FX300 is supposed to add 110% more power capability then the standard clutch. 110% of 125 = 137.5, add in the 125 and we are at 262.5 pound feet.
That may be sufficient.......... 
word just came in from Steve..... 
I'm genuinely getting excited...... 
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
From the LS swap pages, the solstice ar5 is a good bit different than the Colorado unit. Similar but different. I'd be cautious of that solstice unit for your application.
Also - I'm almost certain the LS1 and AR5 slave cylinders are the same. Or similar enough that I couldn't spot the difference.
Scotty Con Queso said:In reply to oldeskewltoy :
From the LS swap pages, the solstice ar5 is a good bit different than the Colorado unit. Similar but different. I'd be cautious of that solstice unit for your application.
Also - I'm almost certain the LS1 and AR5 slave cylinders are the same. Or similar enough that I couldn't spot the difference.
clutches... or transmissions?? And if transmission - internals? I do know that one[?] of the ratios is different......
My Solstice AR5 is essentially new, while my Colorado AR5 is well worn(junkyard purchase), and would require a rebuild before final install. The most significant difference is the tail end of the transmissions - the Colorado unit having a conventional spline shaft, while the Solstice unit requires a flex mount. Additionally the Colorado unit is for a truck, so the tail end is rather chunky.
Additionally, I'll need to move the shifter on the Solstice unit, but that isn't an issue thanks to these guys.... Driftmotion
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
Ok. You know even more than I do when it comes to them. I just wanted to make sure you were aware of differences.
I think Fabbot makes a remote shifter but not sure.
We did some measuring today.......... We have a bearing (pilot) that will fit the crank, and the input shaft of the AR5...
Next week we fit the flywheel, and the clutch and see if it all fits together... and if it doesn't what are the remedies.............
more to come....... 
I may have missed what this is going into but:
Please.
preach (dudeist priest) said:I may have missed what this is going into but:
Please.
Have you ever heard of a Corona Mark II??? The original "X" chassis car (Cressida) from Toyota. Mine is a 1972 MX22. Here are a few nice examples....
Think of it as a 7/8ths Pony car.... Here is mine - Dan's Mark II
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