oldeskewltoy said:
vwfreek said:
Put it in a 70s Colt. Then you can tell everyone you have a 70s Dodge with a Hemi.
While I could do that... I could also put it in a 78 Challenger making it a hemi Challenger.... but the 2nd gen Challenger is dowright fugly
It would be a waste to put that lump in that car............
My older brother had one of those. In silver, it wasn't as terrible. He was hit just ahead of the rear wheel and put a "E36 M3 happens" sticker in the middle of it. Dad made him take it off.
With some work on the body to add flares, improve the grill, tuck the bumpers, add a spoiler/splitter, etc. it would be pretty hot, IMO. I mean look at the Challenge Spirit! They aren't exactly the prettiest cars either...
Ermahgawd!
I've been into these engines for years since I saw my first one in long beach at JCCS. Where'd you get it? And cost? Feel free to email me details cherrodover@gmail.com
The top side view with the cover off looks quite a lot like an improved Daimler v8, which was derived from the BSA 650 twin, lots of parts interchange between them, and some of those cause compromises that Toyota would never do!
californiamilleghia said:
Also use Google translate on your phone , you can take a photo of the page in Japanese and it will translate it for you .
If it doesn’t work 100% I’m sure the results will be entertaining;-)
mke
Reader
3/13/19 6:25 p.m.
I got custom head gaskets for the frankenferrari from cometic
https://www.cometic.com/p-35446-custom-gaskets.html
It was like $160 for the pair and if you send a dwx file of what you want there was no engineering charge....I think onshape (free on line cad) will export a dwx.
I hand cut simple stuff.....or permatex 518 is magic.
Cereal box cardboard and a tube of Hondabond solves a lot of problems...
Staples copying machine.....
californiamilleghia said:
Staples copying machine.....
for the gaskets??
yupididit said:
Ermahgawd!
I've been into these engines for years since I saw my first one in long beach at JCCS. Where'd you get it? And cost? Feel free to email me details cherrodover@gmail.com
Yahoo Japan through one of the many JDM importers - these guys - https://www.wolfreignmotors.com/ - you might wait and see how my experience is before you get in touch. Btw, the engine found was from/through another company, who couldn't do the importing. Here is the link to YJ - https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/ the search term I used - VG40 - chassis code for the Century. Uf you do a search right now, there is another 5V-EU currently available, it is missing the distributor.
Most copiers will take a good enough scan to accurately import into cad programs. Basically you import the image into your cad program of choice and then you drop lines on the imported image and it should be 1:1. Since gaskets are thin you don't get the paralax (?) you get from cameras.
Is this a 2 bolt mains like the later UZ series engines? I would love to spin my 2uz up to 9k but I would bet it would just saw the block in half with the toothpick rods they came with.
Sean
smokeysevin said:
Most copiers will take a good enough scan to accurately import into cad programs. Basically you import the image into your cad program of choice and then you drop lines on the imported image and it should be 1:1. Since gaskets are thin you don't get the paralax (?) you get from cameras.
Is this a 2 bolt mains like the later UZ series engines? I would love to spin my 2uz up to 9k but I would bet it would just saw the block in half with the toothpick rods they came with.
Sean
the rods are one thing I'm totally unsure about - I don't expect stout bits... but we'll find out. I also don't yet know the rod to stroke ratio so although the block is slightly over square, I have no idea how well she'll actually rev.......
A bit more... I've manged to get a starter...
and a factory service manual....
californiamilleghia said:
Also use Google translate on your phone , you can take a photo of the page in Japanese and it will translate it for you .
and my new phone that translates....
more to come........
It's here............. 
and I've gotten bitten already..... 
some bad news.... R&L shipping SHATTERED the distributor..... 
the fan, and the ISCV
replacing the distributor is truly unobtainium unicorn horn... the reason I bought this engine was it had the distributor... well, although the distributor is broken, I'm thinking the lower section(oil pump drive) is still usable - so a bit of custom machining will be required.... along with crank fire ignition.
more to come.......
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:
Weird to see a 4.0 V8 with 4400 RPM at peak HP and it isn't drastically undersquare. Seems like a little more compression and a lot more cam would be useful here?
It was a luxury car engine. Unobtrusive smoothness was always the goal.
Weird that gaskets aren't available. I thought these engines were produced until 1998.
Glad the " translator" worked for you ,
Search you motors model number in Google images and see if cool stuff comes up in Japanese websites ,
These guys are car crazy like we are !
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
That is a really neat looking motor. Making gaskets is time consuming but not all that difficult. Use the transfer method. ( are you familiar with it?)
The head gaskets might be the most difficult to do but worse case you make them out of dead soft copper. Again start with the transfer method and with that low of compression you should be fine with just a flat sheet.
If you are going to increase compression or add a supercharger/ turbo you will need to add a fire ring to the gasket. That’s just a thin groove cut into the copper 1/2 the thickness of a piece of stainless steel wire. If you want to get really state of the art you can use gas filled O rings. There are a few tricks to doing that part quickly and neatly.
So a bit further... If I want to make some power, a new intake (custom made) of some kind will be needed.... The current one is just too small to make my goal of 300hp, 300#/ft
But I don't want lose the current injector placement - they fit so nicely into the intake manifold... so most likely it will require modifying this stock manifold in some way... ???
californiamilleghia - I was the 6th poster in that thread... looking for a FSM. There are a few cars with this engine swapped in, but not many. Isn't that why some of us do what we do... because it hasn't been done by many......????
Knurled - The engine was last used in 1996 - so yeah, not sure why there aren't any parts.... I've run the gaskets through many different sources, and no one seems to have kits, or even pieces. There are a few seals available, but only what is also used on other engines.
frenchyd - Did my best with the main gaskets so far..... head gaskets came off mostly... intakes... not so much
While light for a V8, the rumors are/were wrong about the engines mass(130 kilos - 286#s). Subtract 7.4#s for the engine stand mount bolted to the back of the engine. This 5V-EU weighs in @ 370#s The engine was weighed as you see it above, long block, with intake and throttle body, flexplate, and no exhaust manifolds
Another day on it, and it should be completely dismantled.
more to come.......
The camshaft bolts in from the inside of the valley? Far out!!
The block casting topography reminds me a lot of the Avalon engine I rebuilt a year or two ago. (2GR-FE?)
Y'know, it almost looks like Toyota tried to design the block so that it could be OHV or OHC.
That's a cool little engine! Depending on the firing order, you might be able to use an EDIS-8 crank trigger system.
Cool engine! JB weld and aluminum paint for that dist housing? the cap will help hold it together....
ShawnG
PowerDork
7/5/19 11:13 p.m.
I bet one could machine down a different distributor to fit in there and just use the Toyota oil pump drive.
A small-cap HEI might be just the ticket. Then it's easy finding parts.
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
Regarding making power: cam, port work, compression and bigger intake?
Crower is who I would go to for a reground cam with more lift and duration. But before you go there I’d get flow bench numbers both before and after you do the port work. Get the numbers for each port. (All16) Without those you are throwing darts on the wall with regard making power.
You can reverse engine flow numbers take the factory specs and enter them then adjust flow numbers until you match the factory specs for power. I use Engine analyzer program because it’s always given me accurate numbers on some really bizarre engines.
Then start changing things until you’ve reached the power output you want. Don’t fixate on peak numbers. Look in the operating RPM you’ll feel most comfortable driving at. Peak power is usually at peak RPM and unless you love the idea of driving around at 6500 rpm or whatever, totally meaningless.
If you absolutely need a bigger number just lie, who will really know? ( that’s another advantage of owning an obscure engine)
If I were doing it for the street I’d take the easy and cheap approach. Use what you have and just turbo or supercharge it. A pair of T2’s are still real cheap on EBay ( Probably around $300 for the pair) and easily make the power you are seeking. Run it using E85 and you’ll gain 50+ horsepower over 92 octane fuel and save $1.20 a gallon.
If you are more old school and like carbs mount a smaller roots type with a small 4 barrel Holly on top
At ~4.0 Liters of displacement, a rebuilt Eaton M90 would actually be well-sized if you wanted a supercharger. Wouldn't add too much due to heat, but that would be one hell of a conversation piece!
Really neat engine. I'm really surprised they never brought these to America- and all Aluminum Hemi V8 in small displacement? Weighs less that 400lbs? Hot rodders would CREAM over having something like this.
Doc Brown, Agent98, and ShawnG - I think I'll look at this as an opportunity. The distributor is (was?) the tallest thing on this engine stock, and it lead to awkward scoops, and oversized bulges in most of the swaps.
frenchyd - I have every intention of putting this on my bench and getting some #s from it. The plan includes getting a lift, and duration on the stock camshaft. There does appear to be a worn lifter(maybe 2), so the cam will be checked carefully. There does appear to be a lot of similarities to the "T" engines. Bore is the same, as well as valve diameters.
frenchyd and GIRTHQUAKE - supercharging IS an option. My preference would be an end entry type unit - I'm not a fan of the "Pro-Stock" look.
A bit closer inspection of the stock intake...... Hmmmmmmm
Man I love GRM. Always someone acquiring and resuscitating some wild piece of automotive history I know little to nothing about. Can't wait to see where this goes!
I've always wanted an early 90s toyota century but after hearing about the gasket fiasco I might have to let that dream go on its merry way.
In reply to oldeskewltoy :
If you’re going super/turbo route. ( my choice for cheap power adders). Leave everything stock except the ring gap. Just double the stock openings and you should be fine. ( if .015 use .030. Etc) Add a little extra ( like .005 ) if you’re using stock worn pistons, honing straight, and exposing the rings more.
