Well, it's been a while since I posted; I had some surgery on my arm, so I am moving a little less freely.
Regardless, I was able to get the motor mounted... Sort of... It's in, but I have to re-do them.
So - small steps. But that's better than NO steps. 
To me it always starts to feel like an actual car the day the engine is bolted to the frame....don't know why but in my mind that is a big day. Congrats.
Is the plan to use the trans mount to control/strengthen the front to back location?
This is glorious!
mke said:To me it always starts to feel like an actual car the day the engine is bolted to the frame....don't know why but in my mind that is a big day. Congrats.
Is the plan to use the trans mount to control/strengthen the front to back location?
I feel the same way... I've been waiting to get it in. And yes, there will be a lot of diagonal/K-frame brace for the trans mount. Thanks!
@Dusterbd13-michael - Thanks!
Ok, I gotta watch this one...
Gratuitous old pics, as I have nothing new to show today. BUT - I did get the stitches out of my arm today, and some engine parts are starting to roll in... stand by for pics tomorrow! (hint: it includes a heavy box from SCAT...).
While I continue to wait for UPS and Speedway to sort out what happened to my axle, I started making wishbone brackets in anticipation of eventually getting it.
A little bit of cockpit motivation. (from an unknown TV show)
In reply to Sergeant82d :
I'm digging your project. I'd like to build an A model truck some day but with a roof.
That's Mike Dusold's Camaro Interior. He's on Facebook,Instagram, as well as appreances on Optima Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
Out of curiosity because I've always wanted a Maverick project, what did you do with the donor? Worth saving or is it returning to earth? If it is a 2 door of course.
In reply to captainawesome :
This Maverick would be a great candidate for rebuilding... It is very solid and straight. Except for the front clip, which was wrapped around a telephone pole... But it is a 4-door.
@gtholen - thanks! Now that I think about it, I probably saw it on the best street car TV show.
As 'promised'... Some of the goodies that have arrived so far:
Forged H-beam 302 Windsor rods. They're 3/8 inch longer than the stock rods, and the change of rod/stroke ratio really improve the rev-ability of the engine, to say nothing about the cylinder wall loading. And the vastly greater strength of these ones. Same crank end size, but a little narrower. Pistons will be custom - probably from JE - to take care of the various required changes, along with ceramic and moly coatings, etc.
2 inch stainless exhaust tubing to connect the headers with the turbo flange, which connects to...
A GT 3582, T4, .68 a/r (CXRacing/eBay) turbo. Which gets its air from...
This K&N filter. I had hoped, by the measurements, that this would fit in front of the radiator and under the grill shell, but I will have to build a little shield around it for the 'forced cold ram air' effect. 
And maybe write down the measurements I take... 
There's a few other smaller things (oil lines, fittings, etc), but nothing too exciting.
Oh yeah - I heard from UPS and Speedway - I'll be credited for the parts they lost. Supposedly. Soon. So, Yay... Wish me luck.
Those are some drool worthy parts! I wish I was working on my 200....
Sergeant82d said:Forged H-beam 302 Windsor rods. They're 3/8 inch longer than the stock rods, and the change of rod/stroke ratio really improve the rev-ability of the engine, to say nothing about the cylinder wall loading. And the vastly greater strength of these ones. Same crank end size, but a little narrower. Pistons will be custom - probably from JE - to take care of the various required changes, along with ceramic and moly coatings, etc.
Could you explain more on the new combination, and what you hope to achieve? Some of these Ford inlines- the 300 I6 in particular- interest me from a frugal standpoint.
In reply to GIRTHQUAKE :
If you want to save money on your engine - just buy a junkyard LS. It's LOTS cheaper. For that matter, you can buy a new or rebuilt crate motor for less. The only reason to build an inline six is if you just want to... 'cause it's going to cost you a lot more.
Anyway - warning given, let's move on.
There are a few different connecting rods available which are a reasonable retrofit for the small six (I think the BBC (big block chevy) rods will fit in the 240/300 large Ford sixes). The most popular is the Toyota 1jz, but the Windsor v8 has the same big end as the 200, from the factory. It is a little narrower on the small end, but since custom pistons are a given (in my case), that's not a big deal.
The 1jz rod (4.93 inches long) requires a regrind of the crank, as it's big end is a little smaller than stock. That obviously allows you to offset grind the crank if you want to gain an extra 5-6 cid...
Anyway - the longer rod reduces the thrust angles the engine sees (on the cylinder walls), and improves the breathing because of the longer dwell time at the top and bottom of the stroke, and the attendant increase in piston acceleration.
By increasing the rod length by 3/8ths inch (to 5.09), the original rod/stroke ratio of 1.5:1 (4.715 rod, 3.126 stroke) is increased to 1.63:1 - a long way towards the some-say-magical number of 1.75.
So there's that...
And that is just about everything I know about this subject... And it could be wrong, because this IS the internet...
Hope this helps!
Brad
What are hp & torque curves going to look like with that turbo? Seems kind of big? Interesting following along on a modern build of one of these engines.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
At this point, there's no telling, but I am aiming for ~750 HP @ ~ 6 - 6500.
The turbo is specced for ~ 500 HP (probably a more realistic target), and engines from 2.2 L to 4.5 L. I know most guys who turbo this engine use smaller T3's, but, other than Mike1157 and one other guy whose name I have lost, hardly anyone really pushes it hard. I am... 
Keep watching - sometime in the next few years, it'll be running. At least for a little while!
200ci being near enough to 3.3 liters, it sounds like you're right in the ballpark on sizing. 500hp out of 3.3 liters of econo-Ford inline-six seems ambitious. Sounds like you've got a lot of plans for this build. Good luck!
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
As with any engine, it's all about the head.
Vintage Inlines aluminum cylinder head
And there are many examples of 500+ from these, if you go to Australia or Argentina...
Sergeant82d said:In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
As with any engine, it's all about the head.
Vintage Inlines aluminum cylinder head
And there are many examples of 500+ from these, if you go to Australia or Argentina...
Years ago when it turns out I knew a WHOLE lot less than I thought I knew I was planning to road racing a bike with a H-D XR engine I had. I wanted more power out of it and that lead to me being on the phone with a man named Jerry Branch (who a quick search just told me passed away earlier this year :( ) This was way pre-internet so I really had no idea that I was talking to head flow royalty, I just knew he was the guy who did the H-D factory dirt track teams's XR heads and the factory team was pretty much unbeatable so I wanted him to do mine. I don't recall what nonsense must have been coming out my mouth but I do remember Jerry finally just saying "Look, I don't care if you're Jesus Christ himself, without air you aren't going to make HP"....and there it is, the reason HP is in the heads.....a lesson which has led me to take some pretty extreme actions over the years :)
Are you planning to go with the alloy head? I don't see any flow numbers for the alloy head which struck me odd???? Normally the whole point is to improve flow but all I saw was you can have them flowed if you pay extra but no numbers of any kind. I guess though if the head flow isn't where you'd like it then with the fancy new turbo you can just turn the boost controller up and INSIST there be air flow :)
150-200 hp/liter from a boosted street-able engine seems very reasonable to me. There are also a good number of example in the 300 hp/liter range but is harder to make it play nice on the street and it pretty much seems to be the domain of computer fuel and spark rather than the easier/cheaper mechanical stuff, at least if its to be street-able.....so what is you plan here?
In reply to mke :
You probably don't see flow numbers for aftermarket small Ford 6 heads because the original is so bad you can't make it worse! The single downdraft carb bolts directly to the cylinder head.
In reply to mke AND TurnerX19:
The head flow numbers are there... But you have to really look for it. The entire head came about several years ago, but the main guy behind it has passed away. The owner of this site bought the whole thing from his family/estate, and is working on ramping up production of the head, and building the business as a whole.
The fordsix.com website/forum has all the information from the old (classicinlines) website, but you do have to dig for it.
Aluminum Ford small six head flow numbers
The aluminum head as-cast flows very closely to the Toyota 2JZ 4-valve head... And I have a pro-stock head guy standing by to port mine in a few months... So I have great hopes!
And yeah - I'll be all computer controlled, coil-per-plug, staged injectors, and E85 (for the hard pulls, anyway).
Be sure your head guy addresses the valvetrain geometry too. Word I have read is that the as-delivered installed height is on the short side, making big lift cams a struggle.
In reply to gumby :
Oh, yeah - custom (or at least 'not stock') valves are already on the list. Titanium for the intakes....
I'm getting the head bare. We'll be installing the guides, seats, etc, and installing longer valves, bigger springs, and also-custom pushrods. And maybe cutting the side of the block open to be able to install roller lifters...
I just wasn't feeling it today, but the weather here was great, so I had to do something in the shop...
I rigged up a coolant pump and lights for my big drill press last summer, but the pump was an old HVAC condensate pump from when we had ours replaced a few years ago and I couldn't throw it away... It didn't last long.
So today I rebuilt the system. I need another couple of fittings and a cord receptacle so my pump isn't hard wired like the last one. Lesson learned.
The lamp fixtures are Home Depot cheapies, that I cut down and epoxied back together so the short LED bulbs would fit.
Outdoor rated switch box; 1/2 inch PVC & flex hose
Harbor Freight 110 utility pump. Rated for 300 GPH, and is about twice what this needs, but the price is right.
Drill 11/16ths and thread for 1/2 inch pipe. Three is the absolute minimum drains for this pump. I am going to put another one in the back right corner after getting to the store. I'm pretty sure it would overflow with only two.
Some of the goodies that I cleaned out from the drill table. I've been using motor oil or ATF since the old one quit, so I had quite a mess to clean out. Oh, and this is a 5-quart ice-cream bucket, not a soda cup, and it's an inch deep in the pile...
Sergeant82d said:In reply to Woody :
I wish... I can't even afford a repop from Last Chance in Colorado... No, I started with a cowl from a 'coupster' - a coupe with the top cut off... I can't find a picture of it at the moment, I'll post one soon. It was yard art that I got for $200. I may have over paid!
So basically I'm going to build a vaguely A RPU-shaped thing, with a 28-29 grill shell. Sort of.
Cool build. Regarding a body, Brookville Roadster reproduces pickup bodies in steel, but they're about $5K. However, because of these being available, people are sometimes rebuilding their fiberglass bodied cars with these and the old bodies are usually pretty cheap.
On the other hand, it's not too hard to scratch build a reasonable facsimile of 28-29 bodies as they are mainly simple curves that can be bent over a large tube, welding tank, etc. There is a reveal that just needs a bead rolled into it. The only tricky part is the cowl, and you have that.
Keep going!
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