Long time lurker, first time build page

Got a new battery on order and got my rear shoes, if anyone has tips for reassembling drums much appreciated. Had about an hour of free time before sunset so got it taken apart and bought a new adjuster wheel before sunset and a snow flurry 

In reply to Angryranger :

Only disassemble one side at a time so you have a visual reference for how it goes back together.

Look at the box of new shoes. There should be 2 short and 2 long. The short ones go toward the front.

Got the shoes on and most of the hardware on, my cable for the auto adjuster is too long it seems unless I'm missing something. 

Turns out the kit had the wrong piece, put it together with the correct and got the cable routed. Test drive it and the cable slipped off, can't get the nub to seat. The original had a spring on the inside part and the new doesn't. I'm just so frustrated with it, going back to work full time next week and have an alignment already scheduled so feel like I'm running out of time.

Put it in backwards I guess, redoing it tommorow 

Flipped the cable around and put the drums back together. Started to become easier after the fourth time. Got everything hooked up and the parking brake works. Test drive and all brakes feel to be working no pulls or clunking. Last thing to do fix the exhaust, this part is stressing me out because the welder we have isn't great at exhaust and laying on your back makes it harder. 

Thinking out loud and maybe hoping for some suggestions. I have an alignment on Wednesday of next week. My question is should I try messing with it before it goes in and let them get the final adjustment in. When I installed the upper control arm for the right side before I installed the cam bolt kit I had to turn in the tie rod quite significantly to get the wheel straight. After installing the new kit it is now has more toe in than I feel you could adjust out easily (with my limited time doing alignments) TIA

Make sure the wheel is close to center when actually in the middle of the range.  
 

Eg couldn't lock to lock, then go half way and make sure it's still going reasonably straight to where you only need to turn the wheel 1/4 turn less or so to keep it straight.  
 

you don't want them aligning it and making the wheel straight and you're a full turn away from the center

In reply to jfryjfry :

Thanks! Right now the wheel is little over 1/4 to the right. Gonna give the right side a few turns out on the tie rod and hope that helps

Put the steering wheel centered.  Count the number of full turns from lock to lock.  Divide by 2 and set the steering wheel straight.

Then, whichever front wheel is close to straight, measure that sides tie rods from rack to spindle.  Set the other side to the same measurement.  Should be close and wheel should be straight.

Usually a pull to one side is caster, not toe or camber.  Note that a "pull" is different than steering wheel being off center.  Off center steering wheel is from misadjusted tie rods.  This should be fairly obvious from measuring from rack to spindle.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

Learning lots thank you!

Work got canceled due to power outages so got some time to work on the truck. Got my toe set and all my psi's set. Welded part of the exhaust leak, got all I could mange from on my back 

Really wishing I had a shop or lift right now, got half the y pipe welded but can't reach the other side with a helmet on 

Dropped off at shop for alignment. With wheel turned straight it drove straight then would pull to the right(pretty sure that means the right front is toed out) Hope it's simple for them. 

Dropping truck off at a local exhaust shop tommorow. Hope it's not too expensive, really wish I could have done it myself but alas. Truck drives straight now, brother drove it around on his break from the army. Been caught up with work, I don't know how you guys manage to find time after a long day. 

In reply to Angryranger :

Lots and lots of cocaine.

As standard with this truck it wasn't just welding up the y-pipe. Shop put in new downpipes and hardware, new y pipe and a 02 sensor. Pictures will come after I pick it up.

Feeling pretty good, truck just passed inspection. Now to clear the 200lbs of snow out of the bed from sitting haha

In reply to Angryranger :

Good job.

Angryranger said:

Feeling pretty good, truck just passed inspection. Now to clear the 200lbs of snow out of the bed from sitting haha

That's a traction aid when the snow gets a little deeper! 

Small update: Trucks been good, sucks down the gas though even just running errands. Also likes to pull hard to the right now, thinking right front toed out. Probably clean it up in the spring and sell it, don't like driving it as much as the lowered ranger. 

Went to start the Hyundai to swap for the ranger today, noticed a misfire when it was running. Two codes, p0420 and p0300. 420 has been on and off and it's one of the 02 sensors I believe, 300 is a whole laundry list. Decided to check plugs, nothing crazy but cleaned them up and cleared the codes. No more misfire. Cylinder 4 was noticeably more black and smelled of gas.

Note to self, don't park on ice at the start of your shift,

In reply to Angryranger :

Looks like north of the Artic Circle! Did you have to get it pulled out?

In reply to 78CobraII :

Yeah luckily some guy with a truck had a winch