Michael and i got the body down to the location in the pics by removing a section of the a-post bar. This chassis has had this treatment before. We found the sleeve from the previous mod when we cut the section out. Basically, the a-post bar will be replaced with new from the halo to the base of the a-post. This is what Gumby mentioned a few posts back.
And now pics with Michael in the seat...
Plenty of headroom...
Nice job.
Now you have me looking at 69 Chevelle fiberglass bodies. Grrr
I keep trying to see where the lower pillar tube lines up relative to the base of the body a-pillar, but it is obscured or at a non-helpful angle in every pic! It looks at least to be inside the body(not hanging out in the jamb area) from this angle.
Once you clear the remaining pillar tube out of there, you can locate the new tube more inboard on the halo and get a nice alignment to the body a-pillar.
*edit, it looks like the new bend will be very close to the splice at the top of the door bars. You might try inserting the repair sleeve and tacking it into the new pillar tube before bending so you maintain sufficient sleeve length in the upper portion.
Gumby,
The top end will go all the way to the halo, leaving the lower splice as the only sign of modification. We left the top half of the apost tube to help keep the halo in place... For now.
Nice! Any racecar noises made?
Just a note on the rollcage.
The A piller bar from the top where it meets the halo, down to the floor must be one continuous bar to comply with any sanctioning bodies rules.
In reply to HalfFast :
For clarification, what sanctioning bodies are we dealing with, and how do they handle cage repairs vs. original construction?
In my experiences most "single continuous run" language is written into construction rules to prohibit bisecting certain tubes with other tubes. Diagonal vs harness bar, or similar. In the case of an a-pillar tube, it cannot be interrupted by say, a door bar, or a dash bar.
Repairs are handled separately in some rules I have worked with, and not mentioned at all(!) in others. Steve noted the presence of previous repair. This new situation would also fall under any repair rules or restrictions that exist. If a spliced repair in the a-pillar tube is prohibited, there is a ton of work ahead...
I know tube frame cars are clipped via slugs. I ASSUMED best practice repirs would be fine, especially seeing this chassis has been repaired previously.
Im definitely looking forward to learning more from this discussion.
Ok, I checked with my SCCA tech guy.
First, only the main roll hoop "has" to be a single section of tube. My mistake.
his advise would be to get a tube that fits inside your current tube as a sleeve then weld around the replacement tube at the joint and grind off the weld and paint so it doesn't look like it was ever cut. Should be safe if done correctly
Cool. So what was done, and what we plan on doing is fine.
Honestly i had no idea about the repairs until we cut into it.
Theres a lot of 74 duster and cutoff wheels in this picture.
How much will you get for that mess?
This is fantastic Michael!!!
HalfFast said:Ok, I checked with my SCCA tech guy.
First, only the main roll hoop "has" to be a single section of tube. My mistake.
his advise would be to get a tube that fits inside your current tube as a sleeve then weld around the replacement tube at the joint and grind off the weld and paint so it doesn't look like it was ever cut. Should be safe if done correctly
Check in to plug welding a few spots along the tubes that overlap. It's unlikely you'll get a tube that fits perfectly inside the existing cage parts. Plug welding might add some strength and take stress away from joins.
HalfFast said:Nice job.
Now you have me looking at 69 Chevelle fiberglass bodies. Grrr
may ivote 66-67 instead please? theresactually a 69 chevelle nascar frame build liked somewhere near the start of the thread
759NRNG said:How much will you get for that mess?
howabout a discount on a 4.8 ls to put on the stand for a cam, compression and port job? cause thats what i did.
gotta save up some to finish paying off steve my scrap guy and Patrick, but that should be a GREAT second engine between the frame rails after this 5.3 dies.
Dusterbd13-michael said:HalfFast said:Nice job.
Now you have me looking at 69 Chevelle fiberglass bodies. Grrr
may ivote 66-67 instead please? theresactually a 69 chevelle nascar frame build liked somewhere near the start of the thread
Might be possible.
I had a 69 at one point and wheelbase of my chassis is a perfect fit. 66-67 is 2 inches longer than my 113". Might look odd
In reply to HalfFast :
This is a 110 chassis, duster is 108. Splitting the difference before radiusing the wheelwells should make it look right.
Do you realize you've only been at this for less than 9 months. That's one hell of a baby.
Will the leading edge of the door still 'kiss' the back of the front fender as this sits? RED WHITE BLUE(nose) all the way bro!!!
Appleseed said:Do you realize you've only been at this for less than 9 months. That's one hell of a baby.
I had to go back and look. April of last year was the start. Holy crap. Didn't seem like that long.....
In reply to 759NRNG :
Yes. Door, fender and quarter SHOULD line up like stock.
Ish.
You are gonna finish building this entire thing before I have my first start of my rx8. And that is just an engine swap!
Dusterbd13-michael said:Appleseed said:Do you realize you've only been at this for less than 9 months. That's one hell of a baby.
I had to go back and look. April of last year was the start. Holy crap. Didn't seem like that long.....
Just the opposite. There are projects half as finished that have been going the better part of a decade.
So, AngryCorvair was trying to come up with a clever name for this thing, and stumbled upon genius.
MoCAR
Now it needs a neat hybrid logo to co on the nonexistent spoiler on the back.
I say nonexistent because the one i kept from the original nascar body doesn't even remotely come close to fitting.
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