Dusterbd13-michael said:So, we have determined that bad E36 M3 happens after a long flat tow with a t5 all hooked up, right? No ifs, ands, or buts. Right?
If so, what (if any) downsides are there to putting it in 5th and locking the clutch pedal in the floor/released position?
Friction disc slapping around in there the whole time.
Pressure plate depressed the whole time.
Clutch hydraulics slowly bleeding down and letting the clutch begin slipping so it's burned out when you arrive.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
gotcha - thanks! Sounds like the main shaft is a lot longer than I was thinking. I thought the sliders locked the gears to the input shaft, but it sounds like the input shaft is always connected to the counter shaft and the sliders lock the gears to the main shaft instead.
I guess it then depends on the oil level, but I do remember the fill plugs being pretty low.
re: holding the clutch down, I'd be worried about a very slow leak of clutch fluid losing pressure over a 4 hour tow or something. but it doesn't sound like there would be other huge issues. (I agree with chris but I'm not sure of the effect of the friction disk and pressure plate)
FWIW on my old 240sx I used tow dolly and left car in nuetral and never had any issues. And that’s with hundreds and hundreds of miles over few years.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
If you have an external slave cylinder I would block the release arm so you are not relying on the hydraulics for hours of tow. Also if the pilot bearing is a plain bush it is hard on it. If it is a ball bearing I would trust it. Top gear only. If you have an internal slave cylinder, well my experience is too many failures to trust it.
Dusterbd13-michael said:So, we have determined that bad E36 M3 happens after a long flat tow with a t5 all hooked up, right? No ifs, ands, or buts. Right?
If so, what (if any) downsides are there to putting it in 5th and locking the clutch pedal in the floor/released position?
Sorry I am so late to the party here.....
As suggested earlier, consult the RV gurus whenever considering a flat tow. They have done it all. Specifically, I checked here:
http://www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store.php
I have flat towed my T5 equipped autoXer all over hell's half acre, +70mph, hours on end, only stopping for fuel in the tow rig, etc. Two full summers of autoX so far, including traveling out of state. I don't do anything beyond triple checking that the trans is in neutral. No worries.
I flat-towed Manual-trans Corvairs thousands of miles without disconnecting anything. Put it in neutral and send it.
Sucks you missed the last challenge, but it's looking great. I'd gladly help with paint if I were closer. Maybe I can carpool with Seth. LOL
I have no clue about flat towing a T-5 car, but I know the manual for my Xterra specifically states that the car must be idled/driven for 30 minutes every X00 miles (I can't remember the exact mileage) because the trans oiling doesn't happen properly without the engine running.
How bout renting a dolly from uhaul and backing the rears on and lock the steering? I’ve seen people do it it but that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea.
Questions on wiring for you: what do you recommend for harness-building supplies and tools? You have special connectors you like? What would you recommend for fuse / relay blocks? I'm going to need at least one multi-pin connector too - any you can suggest?
I know you do all that custom work for people, and also the harness on the Miata looks fantastic! Gotta take advantage of that knowledge.
In reply to TVR Scott :
When i get home, ill do my best to answer this. With pictures!
Thanks!
The engine control pack will take care of fuses and relays on some things. But I need to run fresh wiring and fuses for the lights and dash, radio, heater (once I find one...), and door-related wiring.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Corvairs are not front engined and rear drive, at least not from GM. This issue is only applicable to the front engine gearbox that is separate from the final drive. All manual transaxles are safe to tow.
So, fixing the vacuum leaks and unplugging the maf seems to have resolved a lot of issues with drivability.
Holy berkeleying E36 M3balls this think is quick.
Id legitimately put it up against the 425rwhp duster as far as acceleration and quickness goes. Its NASTY.
registered for the test and tune next weekend. Time to figure out my knockoff gopro.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Less weight equals more power. Go getem!
TurnerX19 said:In reply to AngryCorvair :
Corvairs are not front engined and rear drive
Mine is 
Dusterbd13-michael said:.....
Holy berkeleying E36 M3balls this think is quick.
Dude, I'm stoked for you, sounds like all your hard work has paid off.
Good luck this weekend.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to Robbie :
Countershaft is stationary. Regardless of PIA take the shaft down if you travel more than 20 miles. Other riskier technique is put car in top gear and trap the clutch fully disengaged. If you could overfill it all the way above the mainshaft it would probably be OK, but that is impossible on many units. Fill plug always far too low.
if you raise one side of the car high enough, you can rotate the fill hole higher so that its very possible to overfill the trans. Sometimes getting the car high enough can be a difficult endeavor tho.
In reply to TVR Scott :
this obviously is not everything i use in a harness. But this is essentially what i use in EVERY harness. Couple of tools missing (lighter, test light, depinning tool, and power supply not shown)
Ill post a full rundown for you from the laptop by editing this post, scott.
edit time:
for a full custom harness, this is my rundown.
to start with a fuse panel for the chassis and power distroobution, as well as feeds for all the accessories, i pick up a street rod harness. generally, i get the biggest one i can afford, generally a 21 circuit. in the duster, and other personal builds, i have used the EX wiring 21 circuit. its the cheapest way to get a fuse panel and bulk colored wiring. however, i disagree with some of their gauge determinations, their wire is not the highest quality with regards to insulation and strand count. ive also had issues with poor connections in the fuse panel itslf, but that may have been isolated incidents. for my customers, i only reccomend american autowire these days. they consistently have high quality products, that are designed right. they also share my ethos of overbuilding power capacity via gauge of wire.
as afr as terminals, theres a few options depending on what youre doing. american autowire and del city all sell the special terminals that were commonly used by the OE throughout the years up until the mid 80s, and gm through current. however, with super late model stuff with special connectors and terminals, i try to reuse the factory bits wherever possible. i then use the uninsulated butt splice connectors (bought by the hunderds from amazon) and adhesive lined heat shring tubing (yes, its a harbor freight case. but, trust me, its not harbor freingt contents anymore. again.. amazon. )
relays are bought with pigtails, and then i just reuse the plastic connector and repin with correct spade terminals.
after building, i put a dab of dialectric grease i the terminal before assembly. when i wrap the harness, ill use convoluted tubing for abrasion resistance. for looks, i prefer either using the self fusing silicone tape (loks factory) or the split f6 braided loom from amazon for looks.
i will aso usually build the harness with 1000s of zipties. every couple of inches the whole way down the harness, cut off when i add a wire, tightened when i reroute one from the bundle. keeps it neat and tidy. i also do it one wire at a time. starting with battery cables.
oreder of operations:
1. mount all electrical components (wiper motor, stereo, msd box, fuel pump, battery, etc) where i want them. these are absolutes, that are fixed points.
2. run main cable from battery to starter. run grounds from battery to frame. run wire from battery to alternator. you know, the really heavy gauge stuff.
3. mount fuse panel somewhere accessible.
4. connect the dots
5. cover harness
6. take nap and puck up 742 cut zip ties.
Great stuff, thanks! Just the kind of info I'm wanting.
I'm headed out to the shop to do some welding right now, but I'll read this more and ask some questions later!
In reply to TVR Scott :
Please do! I enjoy wiring .hell, if you were close, id do the tvr for you. Just to be able to say i wired a tvr.
Corvettes, 55 chevy, more first gen f bodies/mopar a bodys/trucks and mgs than i can count. I honestly havent jept track of all the cars ive done, but im pretty sure its somewhere in the 40+ range. But never a tvr. Never even sat in one!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I have a daydream that when the TVR is done I'll drive it out to the Challenge to spectate. Maybe you'll get to sit in a TVR after all!
Eventually...
Back to work...
so, its been a minute since update. Lots of testing, tweaking, tightening, cleaning plastidip, etc. and still nowhere near done on any of that.
However, its done enough for a test and tune next weekend!!!!!
so, on y way towards that, ive been busy. I added a passengers seat for navigator/instructor, installed the package tray carpet, scrapped the inner fenders in exchange for the quick release wheel, got rid of the toggles and exposed fuses, added a feta cheese container painted black to cover the clockspring, tinted the hideous taillights, installed rollbar padding, the list goes on....
but, were ready to rock for next weekend! Im going to drag it back to dads tomorrow if its not raining so I can pull a neon parts car in for total gutting. I need a daily that gets better than 14mpg.....
20190207_164512 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20190216_175038 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20190216_175043 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20190216_175048 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20190216_175032 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
My wife wanted me to tell you that the feta container is legit. I had to point it out in the picture.
Seth: you and jim made suggestions. I never woulda thought about it on my own.
race mode engaged!
Not dfl, not broke. Thats the goal today.
You'll need to log in to post.
