That's engineering at work--cool stuff! I saw a perfect Crown conversion at the last autox I went to. It created a prolonged pause for awesomeness.
That's engineering at work--cool stuff! I saw a perfect Crown conversion at the last autox I went to. It created a prolonged pause for awesomeness.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I have driven a Crown conversion Corvair. I have a 32" inseam and my knees were up next to the steering wheel. No way I could drive it well, or in competition.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I have driven a Crown conversion Corvair. I have a 32" inseam and my knees were up next to the steering wheel. No way I could drive it well, or in competition.
yeah, i've got the same legs. my crown car was really uncomfortable. but it looked sweet. props to alfadriver for wheeling it to 18th place in the $2004 Challenge autocross.
In that pic, the seats were as far back as they could go. The backs were up against the firewall.
I love having a whiteboard in the garage:
measured and cut:
Cart is an outstanding tool:
Also, check out the $25 sun shade from Costco. Too bad it's only 13 feet long. :-(
Putting tools away and calling it a night, got an early conference call in the AM. Will clean and weld tomorrow.
That back seat passenger is hawt...and no longer dirty!
So much love for this build! \../
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:I love having a whiteboard in the garage:
measured and cut:
Cart is an outstanding tool:
Also, check out the $25 sun shade from Costco. Too bad it's only 13 feet long. :-(
Putting tools away and calling it a night, got an early conference call in the AM. Will clean and weld tomorrow.
More info about screen please.
Dude, shade is good. I find I have more working hours in me since I made a similar investment a few weeks back.
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
i cut the ropes off because I will only use it on my west-facing garage. I clip it to the bottom of the roll- up door after i open it.
Update tomorrow. I can barely keep my eyes open. Here's a preview:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Update tomorrow. I can barely keep my eyes open. Here's a preview:
It's nice that your whiteboard has the same swearword filters as the forums here.
I decided to bolt the subframe down where the floor, rocker, and unibody "frame rail" all meet/overlap. It's a strong area:
I used the cut-off 45s as feet for the outer ends:
and I used the step bit to open up the holes to accept flanged 3/8" nuts:
The nuts are welded into the body, flange up, and ground flush. Next I tacked the Xmember together and checked fit, then finish welded:
and installed:
and realized that with the Xmember in place, I couldn't roll the cart forward far enough to lower the body. Ruh-roh!
but I found that it does all assemble OK, it's just that there's only one way to do it. I wouldn't even call it cumbersome, it's just a process that must be followed:
so with the powertrain in home position and Xmember in place, I'm moving on to building the removable solid mounts. Here's the current design:
I'm starting on these today.
Those welds are looking very nice. Good progress toward the goal of "no-grind beauty-welds".
Also I like your installation check list. I wish I had a few of those, like "how to set up the network printer".
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I totally cherry-picked that bead for you guys who can actually weld. Rectangle tube on rectangle tube, clean, clamped in alignment, horizontal, on sawhorses in the driveway. Probably the easiest weld to do. It's by far the best bead on the car. ;-)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I totally cherry-picked that bead for you guys who can actually weld. Rectangle tube on rectangle tube, clean, clamped in alignment, horizontal, on sawhorses in the driveway. Probably the easiest weld to do. It's by far the best bead on the car. ;-)
Milk that E36 M3, man!
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
Pretty berkeleyin' sweet, indeed!
Be careful welding nuts, they distort from the heat. A piece of threaded rod or a bolt inserted as a heat soak helps reduce distortion but be sure to chase the threads with a tap after welding.
Now try to make the next welds match the "no grind beauty-weld" ! You can do et!
NOT A TA said:Be careful welding nuts, they distort from the heat. A piece of threaded rod or a bolt inserted as a heat soak helps reduce distortion but be sure to chase the threads with a tap after welding.
i learned that from my Dad a long time ago. Nuts were tack-tack-tack welded with a length of all-thread in them for two reasons: to keep distortion down and to keep slag out of threads. this is a great tech tip though, so thanks for bringing it up.
Minor design change, less welding required:
will trim the treetops as seen in CAD. And yes, the one on the left is crooked AF. I didn't do a very good job with the death wheel on the base of that one.
been getting some good use out of Dad's lathe.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:NOT A TA said:Be careful welding nuts, they distort from the heat. A piece of threaded rod or a bolt inserted as a heat soak helps reduce distortion but be sure to chase the threads with a tap after welding.
i learned that from my Dad a long time ago. Nuts were tack-tack-tack welded with a length of all-thread in them for two reasons: to keep distortion down and to keep slag out of threads. this is a great tech tip though, so thanks for bringing it up.
A tip so nice I wanted to hit it twice. Thanks gents!
My plan for the motor mounts is that the uprights will sit on top of the Xmember, and be through-bolted to tabs that are welded to the Xmember after the engine is leveled and squared to the body. Tabs drilled and cut and loosely bolted to mounts:
Gratuitous shot of R&R cart's adjustable side supports, shown here in storage mode:
And one of the RH mount sitting in place on the Xmember:
I raided the scrap bin for some 2" wide material to close in the open section of mount, and once again the C4 contributed to the cause:
The flap disc got the gaps nice and tight:
I'll weld these tomorrow at lunchtime, and tomorrow night I'll get the engine squared and leveled and tack the tabs to the Xmember. After that, I can move on to the trans mount.
What's up with that ass-flavored weld bead on picture 3? You promised me better!
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
That was laid same day as the cherry-picked Zen bead. I only cleaned the Zen bead. I will do better.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:My plan for the motor mounts is that the uprights will sit on top of the Xmember, and be through-bolted to tabs that are welded to the Xmember after the engine is leveled and squared to the body. Tabs drilled and cut and loosely bolted to mounts:
Please sleeve these bolts. They probably will be fine with no sleeves, but no one ever regrets a good sleeveing.
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