Mostly DIY Backyard Garage Build

In reply to rustomatic :

I like to think the car crumbled around us I still haven't been back out on track...need to go before I never do again.

I've just been siding here and there after work, but mostly too busy with travel. Feels good knowing there's only one final inspection left.

I picked up my Bendpak 2-post lift from the shipping depot today to save a few hundred dollars.

Used a 2x4 as a giant pry bar to scoot the lift to the edge of the trailer while suspending it with the engine hoist.

Once there, I picked up the trailer end and drove the trailer out from under it. Then a series of floor jack maneuvers to put it inside.

Oh and I have a garage door! It's a high-lift track that goes alllll the way up and with a side-mount operator so there's room for a car on the lift.

On the lighting. If you ran some lights perpendicular to the ones already up. That would help with some of the dark spots from over lap. Especially with the press and any other tools along the back wall.

Do truck things, you el Camino!

In reply to maschinenbau :

Looking great.  Can you tell me more about the siding type you're using?

In reply to Indy - Guy :

Hardie plank fiber cement board. It's heavy as E36 M3 and expensive, but it can't rot I guess.

I too have done the solo Bend Pak tango.. although I got a neighbor to put mine in the shop with a skid steer at least.  We stood my buddy's up with 2 of us, but with mine since I was solo I put a chain hoist above and hauled each post upright (very slowly..).

Looking good!  That lift will spoil you quickly.

Siding is still going slow but it's downhill now after finally doing the soffit panels. I am trimming them out to match the original house, which is taking longer. I am not doing a very good job but it will look fine under paint.

The grass on the graded slope is coming in nicely.

Hardie plank corners look good! Worth the extra effort to match the house. 

Do I see a little bit of exposed stud wall on the left side (bottom of siding)?

In reply to OHSCrifle :

You mean this? That's a vertical piece of pressure treated that follows the concrete step down. Not really sure what to do there. Probably some kind of trim attached to the exposed concrete.

maschinenbau said:

In reply to OHSCrifle :

You mean this? That's a vertical piece of pressure treated that follows the concrete step down. Not really sure what to do there. Probably some kind of trim attached to the exposed concrete.

If you can put a piece of flashing a couple of inches behind that siding overlapping the concrete by an inch or two, then put a piece of hardee trim like a 1x2 batten strip next to the siding on the face of the concrete, I would do that.  You can put it on with construction adhesive and maybe a tapcon or two.  If you had a do-over, I'd just run the lap siding out to the corner covering the concrete, then use the corner trim to pull it in for security.

In reply to maschinenbau :

I meant this

but the one you circled too. Water will get in there. 

In reply to OHSCrifle :

That's not lumber, that's a thin starter trip of the fiber cement siding. It could probably still use a z-flashing over the concrete wall though.

Just about ready for paint. Trim, soffits, and gable vents took a lot more time than I thought. The gable vents are not functionally necessary, but I wanted to match my house and all the others in the neighborhood. And of course I couldn't find a perfect store-bought match, since it's a 70's house, so I had to craft my own vent slats from some 1x4 trim boards.

Looks like the DIY slats were worth the trouble. 

Nice stick built louver. If you reach in between and paint the gable truss black it'll match the house even better.

When does the lift arrive?

How is working with Hardyplank? It's always scared me. What type of nails did you use with it? Around where I live we see a lot of Hardy with rust stains, but we get salt air so not a great environment for anything

In reply to buzzboy :

It's not very difficult but it takes forever alone. Snapper shears and Gecko gauge clamps are key. You adjust the Geckos to match the exposure you want. They attach to the row below and set the exposed height perfectly for the next row. You don't want to cut this siding with anything except the shears, otherwse it will create tons of concrete dust and dull whatever blade you use. The shears are basically dust-free. I used 2" galvanized ring shank nails in my framing nailer with the rubber nose on and turned the pressure down a bit, and trying to hit studs where I could. An actual siding nailer would probably work better but this was fine. Hardie recommends galv or SS nails. You might be able to prevent the rust if you paint the top of each row of siding where the nails are before adding the next row. Otherwise the overlap doesn't get painted. The Hardie comes pre-primed though.

Also I got to test out the paint sprayer yesterday before I ran out of time, and WOW this is fast! Probably 10 minutes to lay this down plus a half hour of cleaning the machine afterward. I wonder if I can finish painted tonight after work...

Sprayer is magic. I was able to throw 5 gallons at a wall in one evening after work. Debating a second coat. Sherwin Duration instructions say 1 coat could be enough over pre-primed cement board. Hardie says the same thing. Idk. It will be raining this week so I have time to think about it. Obviously still have to paint the trim too. But I think I'm ready for final inspection?

That looks fantastic!

Looks great!  

SW Duration is great paint, that is what I have used on my garage and house renovations

What kind of paint sprayer did you use? That certainly was fast! 

Graco Magnum X5

In reply to maschinenbau :

I've got the same sprayer. 
 

I usually allow 2 full days to mask and cover up.  Then I can spray an entire house the next morning in less than 2 hours by myself.  That leaves enough drying time that I can often spray a 2nd coat and ceilings late the same day.   I leave  the gun pressurized and spray ALL the trim and doors the next morning in an hour or 2.  (I roll the finish coat)
 

The cleanup is about a half a day's work.  It takes longer to properly clean up than to spray.