Comin' along PJ. Seems odd to me that you'd be so pressed for electric fan clearance when replacing an inline six with a V8....what am I missing? Guess you're aware that the fans won't be as efficient when used as pushers and that blocking off the front of the rad assures that they'll spend a lot more time running...
Thanks!!
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Yeah I was pretty bummed since evrything else went relatively ok. But I'm semi over it . . . I lost like two solid days to that berking crappy ECM.
In reply to MichaelYount:
I'm using a MUCH thicker radiator than most. Most people use a Thunderbird radiator. The guys before me using the same one I am end up cutting into the core support for room.
After I mounted up the pusher fan, I didn't like it
So off to spend more $$$$ . . .
Zero, you are kicking ass. I wish I had 10% of your motivation. Don't give up you are doing awesome. BTW, I have a similar issue with the Saab that the fuel pump will only work with the relay jumped even using known good relays
$ will eventually solve the problems -- and often more quickly. I could see the bigger rad in the pics, but still, you should have 2 cylinders worth of additional room, or thereabouts. I realize the Mustang accessory package hangs off the front a good ways - just seems like there should be more room up there. The V8/tranny must be sitting a bit forward of where the 6 was - perhaps for bell housing clearance?
Puller fan installed . . . $70 with all the relays and crap.
I put the face back on the car and mounted the puller. I'll have pics later.
Let's just say . . . 2 foot fireball (no video).
Two leaks . . . high pressure steering line and one on the coolant hoses to the coolant pipe . . .
In reply to MichaelYount:
It's mostly due to the doublesump pans the 302 has. The pan is nestled right over the cross member.
If I went with a full Explorer set up, I would've had another 1/2".
Strike_Zero wrote:
In reply to MichaelYount:
It's mostly due to the doublesump pans the 302 has. The pan is nestled right over the cross member.
Intimately familiar with that pan being nestled over the crossmember.
Day . . . .31
We are still kicking ass and taking names!!
Good luck. I know what it is like to live in the garage getting a hillclimber done. When you get it done bring it up to a NEHA hillclimb sometime.
Keep a close eye on temps early on, especially when leaning on it hard at relatively low speeds (hill climbs, auto-x's). The parts store universal fans are notorious for not moving nearly enough air to keep things cool. The Mustang guys LOVE the dual Contour fully shrouded set ups from the JY for next to nothing.
I still want to find out what the total $ is to do the swap.
In reply to MichaelYount:
Coolio!! Thanks for the lead on a dual fan setup.
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
It depends . . .
- JY Explorer/Mountaineer - ~$250
- T-5 - ~$300+
- Stuff to freshenthe 302
- Mustang DIzzy
- Swap pars and manual
- Non hackered 91-93 wiring - ~$150
- A9L ecm - ~$100+
- Mustang driveshaft - ~$30
- JTR flange - $103
That's just a tip if you wanna get started. Matt's swap manual covers it all.
My build has a mix and match of many different 302 parts. If I was to this again, I would go straight to the Exploder 302 as a foundation and add Mustang stuff where needed.
Mad_Ratel wrote:
I still want to find out what the total $ is to do the swap.
While others can tell you what they spent --- it's always a challenge to plan for/budget for a swap like this. What one person is able to source/find/know about is almost always different from someone else. And availability is often different geographically. One thing seems certain in my swap experience -- it's a lot like taking your car to the body shop for work. Whatever you THINK it's going to cost/how long it will take, multiply cost estimate by 2 and the time estimate by 3. If you're unwilling to multiply the cost estimate by 2, multiply the time estimate by 6.
And btw PJ - rockin' work man! Sending positive energy on the ecu front. If you have access to a stock MAF sensor and 19 lb/hr injectors, I'd sure try them and see what happens to drivability, idle quality, etc. Used aftermarket meters are hit/miss at best. How they're calibrated is all over the board, and they're not just calibrated for the injector size. Whether the meter is in a stock location, has a conical hanging off the end, has an elbow in front of it or after it -- all those configuration issues have the potential to significantly affect airflow across the hot-wire. And that can mean crazy signals to the maf. So you're right to 'wonder' about the aftermarket MAF.
Keep in mind if you're considering going Explorer -- the Explorer ecu isn't NEARLY as performance or mod-friendly as the 89-93 Stang ecu is. Just getting around the PATS issue requires an aftermarket tune. And if you're considering boost (questionable reliability move with the weak stock short block), the 93 Stangs and Expl/Mount came with hyper cast pistons. The 87-92 Stangs came with forged. Some of the late model year 92's had the hypers as well.
MichaelYount wrote:
Keep in mind if you're considering going Explorer -- the Explorer ecu isn't NEARLY as performance or mod-friendly as the 89-93 Stang ecu is. Just getting around the PATS issue requires an aftermarket tune. And if you're considering boost (questionable reliability move with the weak stock short block), the 93 Stangs and Expl/Mount came with hyper cast pistons. The 87-92 Stangs came with forged. Some of the late model year 92's had the hypers as well.
Do you have a page somewhere w/ alot of these details spelled out? I found one years ago that had spreadsheets, lists, pics, etc but cant seem to find it now.
I'd be doing the work myself but I'm more in the interest of getting swmbo approval...
Not going good today.
Got the car together now, no spark. . . Berk!
Lol!!
It's all "stock" crap. A few days ago, I did couldn't get fuel via the ECM, got spark. Now I can fuel (albeit always running with key on)I don't get spark. What kind of sorcery is this?
The revenge of lucas?
Nah. Just the magic smoke disappearing somwhere. My bet is faulty ecu.
You getting juice at the coil and distributor?
faulty ecu or wiring screwing ya.