AFM stands for air fuel management? Keen to hear the 1g at speed once you're all done. Did any of the earlier single cam Toyota engines have a nice sound ? The Cressida deal that fell through for me had a single cam 5m.
AFM stands for air fuel management? Keen to hear the 1g at speed once you're all done. Did any of the earlier single cam Toyota engines have a nice sound ? The Cressida deal that fell through for me had a single cam 5m.
In reply to dannyp84 :
AFM is air flow meter, its the weird box looking object you see right before the air filter on most old toyotas. You can easily get a good sound from other Toyota inline six engines. My previous cressida had a 2jzge and all I did was buy a $200 header, 2" secondaries until the transmission crossmember, and 2.25" single to a hollowed out magnaflow muffer. All piping was mandrel bent, just copy paste that formula to other engines.
In reply to darkmedievaltimes :
I had an Is300 for a number of years with the 2jzge with a cheap header and an amalgamation of piping leading to an HKS axle back. (Previous owner had done all the exhaust work). It sounded great a part throttle, mid range rpm, but at full throttle beyond about 5k rpm it was far too raspy for my liking, even with a resonator that I added later.
Engine ETA is Saturday via the @2000TC24 courier express, motivational pictures of what I consider to be a top shelf GX for now
In reply to darkmedievaltimes :
That sounds nice, not too raspy from what I can tell. I didn't realize Toyota was using the Chaser name during the GX chassis cars, I didn't think that name showed up until the JZX. Also the rear wiper on a sedan seems rare and cool.
Good news and bad news over the weekend. The good news is that I received a dream engine nearly a year after completing the purchase. Thanks to my friend @2000TC24 for bringing it to me from Riverside. I test fit the header because why not and then pulled the came covers off. After that I grabbed a ratchet and thought I would crank over the engine, the crank spun and cams stayed put. I can feel something skipping when I turn the engine over and hear something as well.
Not exactly the magical ending to a great weekend but expectations must be realistic. I bought an engine from overseas and it was removed for a reason. I was not anticipating a rebuild and it will greatly reduce the timeframe on this project but it will also keep me from getting ahead of myself. The 1gge is non interference, speculation without investigating is pointless but I cannot get the crank pulley bolt off with the tools I have available. Once I remove the pulley I can remove everything hiding the timing belt components and see why the cams are not spinning with the engine.
Beyond that I will be removing the oil pan and checking for any loose caps or rods.
Not wonderful news but at least it's non interference. Maybe just the timing belt came apart and you're hearing slop in the tensioner or something? When I did a timing belt on my old IS300 that crank pulley bolt must've been tightened by Thor. I tried all manner of breaker and cheater bars to crack it loose to no avail, finally I set the breaker against the ground and bumped the starter to get it loose. I didn't like that method but it was effective.
Wheel update: Centers to be painted gold soon.
Wheels are painted, soon to be back so I can mount 175/60 and 185/60 then figure out how to make them fit.
Got around to pulling apart the front of the engine to find multiple cogs missing from the timing belt. No sign of valve to piston contact. The intake cam moves a little bit then stops completely. At this point its going to be a full rebuild.
Also cleaned up a few things:
What are the wheel widths? I was watching a video last night and Izanami wheel is now making shorter axle shafts in order to run wide wheels without having to alter the stock body lines on cars like the GX61. Park was also talking about developing custom subframes to just bolt in and allow lots of adjustment and preservation of the stock body. I doubt they'll be cheap but they'll likely be high quality.
In reply to dannyp84 :
I already have Izanami suspension, this could be a possibility! Where did you see that video?
In reply to darkmedievaltimes :
Fair warning that whoever this guy is, he interrupts Park a lot and he seems a bit eccentric, but it's a decent tour of the shop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY9r_CvN2Ps
I'll also send you some photos on ig that my friend took recently during his visit there.
Wheels have shipped, nothing will light a fire under my ass more than these arriving:
In preparation I shortened the original LCA's which are completely sacrificial. These are for mock up purposes only. One is shortened 1" and the other 3/4".
The front wheels are 14x9.5 -19, the one wheel pictured is 14x8.5 -21. The new front size is 1/2" more aggressive on the inside and outside. Since the rear end will be narrowed to achieve a flush fitment under a factory fitting arch I wanted to accomplish the same look for the front without excessive front camber. Somewhere between -1 and -2 will be sufficient. Here is the wheel mocked up with the 1" shorter LCA:
My plate is maxed out and from eyeballing it I think i'm somewhere around 0 camber / entering the realm of positive camber. The best possible outcome to achieve my goal is a small amount in the front with more in the rear. 1" is too much.
Here is the 3/4" shortened LCA, small but noticeable improvement:
With the final amount being decided on I moved forward with shortening the new pair. For the sacrificial pair I did it as quickly as possible without much thought. I didn't want to drill new holes for the tension control arm so I removed material between that and the ball joint.
Move steering stop 3/4" inward:
Small box:
Next up is raising the engine crossmember.
Those control arms look so similar to the ones on the FB RX-7 that I wonder if you could get the adjustable ones from Mazdatrix and dial in exactly how much length you want, though I suppose a lot of control arms looked alike back then. Are you modifying the mounting location where the control arm bolts to the subframe?
In reply to dannyp84 :
For the sake of simplicity I went this route. The thought of adjustability crossed my mind but I figured once its adjusted it will never get touched again so here I am. I won't be modifying the mount location, the whole engine cross will go up about 3/4" or so.
Engine crossmember raising is next. It won't match the lovely shade of brown on the exterior for long.
Jig making supplies, the sacrificial LCAs are to be used once again:
Here it is fully mounted, I have scribed lines for cutting guidance. My friend who also has a brown MX63 Cressida raised his crossmember 1.5" with a 5MGE engine which is taller than the 1gge so I feel comfortable taking it that far without heavy research.
At home checking out my spare racks. In the early stage of this I wanted to simply bolt in the MA61 crossmember and rack pictured but none of the measurements will work out. LCA mounts are 7" off, chassis mounting only 1.125" but the 7" is not doable for me. With the shortened LCAs I don't see this rack being a viable option.
This however looks promising, I need solid confirmation but I know it is either an MR2 or AE86 manual rack. I want power steering so I will either need to go Prius EPS or eventually swap this to a power rack.
Wheel day is the best day:
darkmedievalcheeseburger said:Hello from Springfield, OR...
I daily a 71 Toyota Corolla...
Cheesburger Nics MX73...
Hey, wait a minute. Don't I know you? Didn't I give you a mess of old 3TC stuff a bunch of years ago?
Nice choice on the 1G. I have never seen one, but always thought it would be a little sweetheart in the right application.
In reply to DarkMonohue :
Aaron?
Engine crossmember raise, went 25mm:
Tack it up for test fit:
And a prime example of calculated success:
I will have to cut a relief for the LCA although I'm confident with 24K springs there won't be enough range for it to be usable BUT I have yet to set the final ride height:
The test fit was a success in every way, time to add gussetts:
darkmedievaltimes said:Aaron?
Afraid so. Good to see you on here. I think when we met you were working on your first TE27, weren't you?
I still kick myself for selling my 2T-G...
Do you have to do anything to keep the hood from hitting the engine now that it will be raised or was there plenty of clearance there? I don't have much room between my hood and the velocity stacks of the carb on my FB.
In reply to dannyp84 :
My friend who as an X6 with a 5mge raised his engine 1.5", the 1gge is shorter and I raised only 1" so I didn't bother with any mock up work.
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