USERNAMETAKEN said:Let's talk T-5 transmissions. I'm starting to think the lovely Ecoboost might make a Miata trans go poof-bang.
I know I can buy a bell housing kit. I know various mustangs had them. And Jeeps. And Camaros.
What are the options? What do I avoid? What do I hunt out?
Drive one first. Not exactly the most smooth manual trans. But they are livable if that's what you need.
Well my 06 GT has a TR3650 and it’s a decent unit. Much different from the T-5? Or maybe that would be an option.
I run a T5 in my turbo Capri, albeit the European version from a Sierra Cosworth. With a good shifter (I use the Steeda Tri-Ax) I think it shifts OK when it's good. Mine has started to resist going into second when cold though, may be bent shift forks from (over)enthusiastic shifting.
However, the T5 is rated to 300 lbs ft of torque, is that enough for you?
I'd be inclined to look at a Tremec TKO, they are quite cheap new and has more head room to spare. The T5 is a bit more slim though, might be a fitment issue with the TKO perhaps?
Of course, T5's are also a lot cheaper in the US than here in Europe, that's something that biases my opinion.
Gustaf
Absolutely great work!
The transmission behind the 2.3 Ecoboost in the mustang start at the $1k mark on car-parts.
RossD said:The transmission behind the 2.3 Ecoboost in the mustang start at the $1k mark on car-parts.
I'm strongly considering that one. From what I've read, the MT-82 was a pretty awful transmission when it first came out, but they made continuous improvements over time. I guess now they're decent. This is probably the "easy button".
Another advantage is that this has a remote shifter assembly, so I can mount it exactly where I want.
USERNAMETAKEN said:Stampie said:In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Where does one find a cheap crane scale? Also define "cheap".
This one was off some Amazon store, and it was $49.99 with free shipping.
Thank you sir. Ordered at 10:30am and delivered at 7pm. First 10 minutes was worth the $50.
Boys and their toys.
Dirtydog said:Boys and their toys.
That is the most redundant thing I’ve ever read on GRM.
USERNAMETAKEN said:Dirtydog said:Boys and their toys.
That is the most redundant thing I’ve ever read on GRM.
Redundant, yes. True, hell yes! This IS what makes GRM.
In reply to Dirtydog :
Certainly!
Had a birthday party / Easter lunch at my house on Sat, with my parents, sister, and my bro and his kids. My niece wanted to see the car so we had a look.
She said, "What's your next step?"
I said, "I'm going to pull the motor."
She said, "When are you going to do that?"
I said, "How about right now?"
So we wrenched:
My 11 y/o daughter is up front, and my 17 y/o niece in the back and 12 y/o nephew. They all threw on gloves and pitched right in.
The girls were in charge of the hoist and the floor jack. I just gave it all a quick inspection before lifting commenced.
My nephew didn't know the difference between a nut and a washer when we started. He knows now!
Pretty fun stuff, wrenching with kids! I sent them home so filthy...
I attempted to take the engine out without removing the trans, and found it to be a physical impossibility. The engine is too long to clear the front cross-member.
One step forward, two steps back.
I did get the engine and trans rough-bolted back together again, and got two of the drive-shaft bolts disconnected. After all that misery, I decided the body really ought to come off the frame. If anything, for now I'll just lift it up enough to work under.
So that opened an exciting new can of worms: roll bar. The PO had added in a roll bar at some point, and had glassed in the mounting points. So I thought.
Turns out he had not glassed them in, but instead had used some fiberglassy looking stuff (horsehair?) mixed with a brittle, heavy purple junk that looks an awful lot like household plaster. Yuck.
This was all smeared in with cardboard as a backer. On the bright side, it popped right out with a judicious application of force. Thank you, Mr. Pry-bar.
The remaining gaping holes will need to be dealt with, but at least now I can remove the roll bar. I REALLY HOPE it just comes out the passenger's door without any further drama.
I also found a bit of a mess covering over the gas tank. Just a thin piece of plywood and a couple chunks of wood potted in with purple-plaster-crap. Clearly not factory there. These new fiberglass wounds will either need patching back to proper structure, or cover plates that will bolt in over the roll bar.
All of this is a good reminder to me to make sure everything I do is serviceable and solid and made of materials belonging in a car. I'll now repeat the mantra:
*Don't do anything jenky and horrible to the car*
*Don't do anything jenky and horrible to the car*
*Don't do anything jenky and horrible to the car*
Actually, being a TVR, that could totally be factory!
Kinda joking....
I know most TVR's that are rebuilt or refurbished end up nicer than when they left the factory.
You know I've found the build quality overall to be very nice. There are a lot of things to be fixed and a lot of previous sins that need to be set right, but the basic design and construction seems very solid.
This is an excellent example of "DPO", I would not blame that "work" on the factory. This is a fun build to watch and I can't wait to see the final results.
I've got a quote on a 2015 Mustang 6-speed out of Indiana. Would be $1000 plus $210 in freight.
They can add the starter for $45, and the driveshaft for $150. They say they probably don't have the clutch anymore.
Is there any benefit to having the stock driveshaft? I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a custom driveshaft, since I'm going to do the R200 diff conversion. Do the driveline guys like to start with used OEM parts, or would they start with different new components?
I know Summit, et al, has "custom" weld-your-own driveshaft kits. I assume that I'd cut to length and weld, then take it out for balancing. Probably they'd have a splined end for the MT-82 trans, but not sure what's required for the R200 diff.
Would seem I need yet another decoder-ring...
The shop I used does not want to start with OEM used components but would make me anything I wanted. So in my case that was Miata 6 speed to a Subaru R160. The biggest advantage was that it was new, safe and balanced to 9,000 RPM. I used Driveshaft shop, it was not inexpensive, but worth it to me. I am sure there are local shops that can do it cheaper, but this is one area that I needed to be sure it was solid. Cost was around $375
Very nice! Are those custom axles too? Did you make your own diff mount?
What motor did you use on your Spitfire?
That's perfect - I just send them the end requirements and the length, and they build it new. The price is even reasonable for a brand new custom piece.
Yes, custom axles, but made from OEM components. They are Triumph outer hubs (GT6 Rotoflex) machined to accept an MGF bearing. The CV axles are Rover 100 on the outboard sides and Subaru R160 inner stub axles. I had Dutchman motorsports machine Subaru splines on the shortened Rover axles so they could be a hybrid CV axle. R160 mounts are a combination of a custom rear casting and my own front mounts.
My Spitfire is using a Mazda 1.8 with a small turbo, so it needed all the rear suspension/axle work.
In reply to dherr :
Very cool!
My N/S Engine Orientation kit came today! Parts!
So that brings up the issue of missing engine bolts. Various things were removed from the junkyard engine, and now I need to find replacements. Stuff like the Coil-on-Plug bolts were removed, and only one was replaced. The manifold bolts were all missing too.
Local Ford Dealership? Different source online? I've found some of the Ford dealers who sell OEM parts online, and have sort of tracked down what I need, but the catalog descriptions aren't always clear.
I looked at Rock Auto, and they have the coils and the boots, but not hardware as far as I could find.
Ugh. Frustrations and road blocks.
I'm trying to get the seat frames off to the upholsterer, and can't figure out how to get out the old drilled out rivet-nuts. I don't really want to leave them in there, since they'll probably rattle. But the "popped" portion is too big to come out the correctly sized hole. Any secret techniques? Glop a bunch of silicone on them, and put in the new riv-nut...
Then I bought a throttle body today from a Fusion, and the only direction it will install on the new manifold clashes with the belt tensioner. Can't find any decent pics on other forums. Maybe I'll hit up the Ford Racing chat box, but last time I did that I got no help at all.
Ah. What a difference a day makes! First update before THE BIG UPDATE. Wait for it...
Worked thru the clearance issues on the throttle body. I'm really not sure why I had this problem. I heard back from a guy doing an EcoBoost MGB swap, and his TB bolted up with no issues.
Here's the interference:
The little cast-in nub conflicts with the manifold port. Nothing a file won't cure!
Nub removed:
Still had some conflict between the base of the manifold port. Nothing a die-grinder won't cure!
Port chamfered:
Now the parts fit up just fine:
Short answer on the EcoBoost: IT FITS!!
Finally got the TR-6 engine out yesterday afternoon, with the help of my buddy Kolby. Pretty straightforward, though much easier with two people.
Another data point for "What's it Weight?" - TR-6 engine with clutch and alternator, no manifolds. 404 lb.
The EcoBoost dropped right in like it was made to be there!
It's not ultra-spacious, but there's definitely reasonable clearance.
I measured the crank height, and without any messing about I'm 1/2" lower than stock. Pretty much right where I wanted to be. So that's a win. Oil pan clearance right now isn't bad, and that's still with the old Escape pan.
Turbo outlet lines up beautifully with the opening in the frame! Sometimes guesses and crossed fingers really do work!
Driver's side looks way more spacious than it will end up being. Still need to put the alternator in down low, and the intake manifold will take up most of that upper area. I did test fit the manifold, and it definitely works. The alternator may need some adjustments. I really don't want to cut off the old motor mounts...
So there ya go! Progress!
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