Man this was a great read. I love seeing people race C3's, seems like most of them just gather dust these days. I should start a thread for my C5, I definitely dig the GRM vibe more than Corvette Forums. I've already Sawzall'd my mufflers off before actually doing any real maintenance.
Pete Gossett said:In reply to Madhatr :
Wow! Glad to have you back, but sorry to hear about all the troubles.
Thanks, the real problem was I have been working 10-11 hour days for the past 8 to 10 months, and for the past 5 months my wife has got a new job in the neighboring state. So know we are now in the process of moving. Life just gets in the way. Hopefully, I can get back to posting again.
Here is some pics of the sheared spindle.
The mating side in the hub was a real pain to get out. I had to use the fouth stage of matter to get it out 
dannyzabolotny said:Man this was a great read. I love seeing people race C3's, seems like most of them just gather dust these days. I should start a thread for my C5, I definitely dig the GRM vibe more than Corvette Forums. I've already Sawzall'd my mufflers off before actually doing any real maintenance.
Thanks! And yes, start a thread... sharks are not just for the dust mop and tire polish crowd!
Back to repairs on the deer damage, I got a friend to scrounge some used parts for me.
The square head light trays and some 5 3/4" bottom mount headlight buckets will be the start of custom FIA style fixed headlights.
The steel V bar that was bonded to the under side of the hood surround, was completely rotten. When the Doe hit my headlights she rolled them back and completely mangled this bar.
Since it is now November, and I am working outside... it is too cold to do proper fiberglass and panel bonding. The V bar got bolted in with (16) #10 stainless machine screws and I came up with a 'solution' for the large break on the driver's side.
I think the Corvette racing 'Jake' sticker really makes it!
If all of that wasn't enough... I had an idea... a crazy idea.
I wanted to do a smooth 1973 vette style nose. However, with RallyCross and the utilitarian purposes I use this car for... that slick 73 style nose just is not going to hold up. I figured I am going to build skid plates for the chassis and side pipes... what if I armored the nose too?
It's not finished yet...
But the Dirtball is going full 'Beyond Thunder Dome' 
Auntie Entity would approve.
Learning fiberglass:
With the new bash bar built, I need a custom bumper cover. The original is rough but useable, however a buddy of mine would like it for the low budget father/son build he is doing. Replacement fiberglass covers are $200-300 and could not really afford that just to cut up.
Another friend told me about a technique of using masking tape on the original part to make a one-off. He said he had good luck with it, but had never done anything that big. The only FG experience I have is reinforcing my dash pad, but that didn't need to be pretty. I however am never against learning new things.... or taking things too far.
I used several layers of masking tape to cover the original cover, and made a separation in the middle, figuring the complex shape would give me trouble
Next I started laying strips of mat and resin. They say you should soak the mat with resin before application... and they are right! The process goes so much smoother that way.
After about 3-4 layers of glass it was looking pretty good...
The matting flange how ever was not great, as glass did not want to make that bend. But, I figured I could work that out.
The plan was to pop off the thin casting, remove the remains of masking tape and then build up the back side with more glass to keep close to the original part size.
And as predicted the shape, and size made it difficult to remove the casting, especially being as thin as it was. I Broke it in several places but it finally came off... but hey, its only fiberglass right?
I made a small casting of the center section and glued the two halves together. I then fitted it to the car and trimmed around the bash bar. I didn't want to put any more work in until I knew it was going to fit.
It's not great but I think I can make it work with more 'glass and sanding.
I think it really ties in the front bar visually... however I need to re-angle the flat bar the LEDs mount to, to match the nose angle. Apparently my measuring to a part that didn't exist, was not as accurate as it could have been 
It would have been a lot easier to cut up my original... but I hate to do that when my friend can use it. It also would have been easier to cut up a new one, but I figure I will have about $100 in this one and a WHOLE lot of experience, I think that is better.
Working on a rallycross Vette on dirt floors. And a bash bar, too. All these are words seldomly used together, but oh so right in this case.
I have also got to play with the new lighting a bit....
Low
High
High with (2) 6" Diode Dynamics LED light bars.
I wanted to test them out side, but a starter issue made that a problem. I also still have amber high/lows to hook up yet.
I can't wait to get it back on the road and see how they all really work!
I’m sure you already know this but it can’t be said enough times. Be VERY CAREFUL sanding that stuff. The lungs no likey
In reply to A 401 CJ :
For sure. I was surprised how much dust was created just trimming it.
The temporary solution (hopefully) to my dampening problem arrived.
A set of new KONI adjustable shocks.
I found them on one of the Corvette FB sale pages. Guy bought them for his 72. He didn't realize they were adjustable, put the rears on... decided he didn't want to mess with them, and took them back off. He sold them to me for half of what he paid. *score*
Hopefully they won't be thrashed by RallyX nationals this year.
It could use a bit more lift. Every one of the C3 racecars I’ve worked on has had some sort of hackery repairing crash damage so congrats on making yours more period correct.
In reply to Wally :
Many have questioned the ride height, but as I am not bouncing around the desert (yet) the close to stock height seems to work well. I have had it side pipe deep in sand snow and mud.
(that is mud and grass stuck in the exhaust passthrus in the transmission crossmember)
My plan is to use this car for everything. I am currently reading Carroll Smith's '__ to win' series to get the best grasp I can on suspension geometry and chassis dynamics. The hope is build in some height adjustment to accommodate both AutoX and RallyX.
To respond to your other comment: The Dirtball is definitely bashed pretty good, and I do currently have a few make shift repairs... however with my art and design background I really do prefer when things work together visually
We got to RallyCross Sunday.
Day started out with a sheared alternator bolt
Some random hardware I had in the car took car of that.
Only other problem I thought I had was large 'thunk' that I could feel in the middle of my back every time I hit a bump.
I thought maybe I had broken the Diff housing... but it turns out my bouncing around in the seat as stretched the floorboard and causing it to oil drum. I have added 'reinforce the floor' to the list of things to do.
It was cold all day, and snowed heavy at the end, it was a good time though! I have some video footage I am working on but here are some very random photos
Also the drive back home was kinda blizzardy... but it is a good feeling when you can drive your rig almost 200miles, beat on it all day, and then turn around and drive back home AND make the morning commute the next day!
Still plugging away at things, Rallycross Nationals is Friday.
Windshield is out, bolt-in frame isn't done yet and I still have a list of things to do....
Tick-tock
This is awesome, especially the front push bar.
You'll need to log in to post.
