i was thinking porsche 911 type.. found them on line for $22 each also thought about using polly transmission mounts, like the one for the t5 transmission i am using.. do you have any ideas?? would be helpfull. or like the round ones.. like a leaf spring bushing
the mounts to the block are 1/8 inch steel, with the vertical mounts also of 1/8 inch steel, the ( do you folks think they might need to be made in a thicker steel ? ) . wings are end to end with the block in the middle 24 inchs.. the frames i built into the car are 18 inches wide... so i will trim them when i figger out the engine mounts. the wood across the bedplate in the photos are very close to were the steel engine mounts are
i welded up the lower hole i cut into it..my mistake.. had new hardlines made up, shop covered the the lines with fabric brake hose to keep it from being damaged due to vibration,, had to enlarge the oem hole, dremal and lots of filing.... test fit a few times so i could get the lines a good distance from the bellhousing, then sanded smooth
ford turbo t-bird.. saturn sky bellhousing,, ford f 150 , ecotec concentrice slave cly flywheel and pressure plate, and 1985 ford turbo thunderbird friction disk/ welded a t5 transmission adapter plate to the saturn sky bellhousing ( i had a leftover t5 adapter plate from my alfa romeo spider to alfa romeo bellhousing...)
cleaning the rust off an extra set of rear trailing arms, using vinegar to hlep with any rust removal. i an going to use sperical bearing in each end , as autodelta use to make the rear end more supple. this will be in addtion to a panhard rod set up. with sperical bearing there should be less rear wheel/tire lifting..
trying to make a insterment cluster cover with abs plastic.... slowly heat bending 
making the transmission mount.. the mount is designed so the tranny will lay over at 10 degrees to the driver. cardboard for the model.. cut the steel.....soaking them in vinegar to get the mill scale off the steel, so i can get clean welds.. also welded the bolts and timing gear,,,. had a fear for them loosing up at a distant future..(Balance shaft delete
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How did the instrument cluster cover come out?
I'm thinking of stealing that idea.
fanboy, not well. going to use aluiumn sheet, easier to bend and form... and steal as much as you want :):)
welded up new transmission mount...here is a tip, on complex shapes get a 2 or 3 in deep tray, fill it full of sand. press the steel into the sand in the shape that you want, check the shape, use magnets to stablise the steel. tack the steel in the spots... pull the steel out of the sand adjust were you need to, tack weld the other side.. clean the steel, then finish the welding 
oh yes... forgot one thing.. after you are done using the sand for welding.. cover it up ..my neighbors cat was eyeing it....
welded on the spacers to the driver side motor mount steel( the passenger side was a flat plane bolt on, got lucky ) the drivers side was not. ace hardware store, got 2 10 mm threaded connectors, cut them to size, 13 mm and 18 mm.. ran the bolt thru the steel, the treaded connectors then bolted them to the block, got my NEW harbour freight titanium 125 welder ( love it, light weight, weld is dc current. very little spatter, and you can dial in the wire speed and the heat that you want ) welded the threaded connectors to the steel ( spot weld ). removed the bolts, wire brushed the spot welds to the steel, then finished up welding the connectors to thee steel, cleaned that up, then drilled out the threads on the connectors( in case of heat warpage) test fitted the set up, perfect, no problems.. then painted them up. now with the custom mounts and tranny mount i can install the engine / transmission. 
up date on the dash, after a few trys
cover with this , and add defroster vents
and built engine ( with a little fun added )....add.. going to repaint valve cover
and car stereo 
to control the defrosters and heat in the car, i am useing 2008 honda civic heater box and controls.. they are electronic,, easy to install 
.. and set of LED headlights 
engine layed over 8 degrees to the driver side.. the head was cut .020 the block was cut abd decked to the pistons by .021 inch pressure plate= ecotec friction disk= 1985 ford tbird turbo/// the .020 over pistons where shorter than the cast oem.. so maching shop adjusted the block( machined the top ) to fit..compression ratio, should be 10.7/1
well.. the honda civic heater box is a dead end.. 32 inchs wide at the longest.. too bit for my car.. try again, or build a custom box
clutch work and plumbing 
has a slight alinement problem,, my machinest took my bellhousing and did some work on it,, hes a great guy,, has 2 shop cats.. he put on the table and did the bellhousing face and the bellhosuing to tranny face.. then put it on his cnc machine, and dressed the interface for the concentic slave cly mount works perfectly now.. the input shaft just slip on and off the engine now ..... and i have the 3 mm clearence between the slave cly mountint nose and the friction plate
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