Jealous of the coil setup! I just noticed the comment about the melted motor mount. Are you running a heat shield on that side? I wasn't going to but a 10vt friend strongly suggested it so I bent up an old licence plate and put it in there. After a year I noticed it was still slightly melted where the aluminum sits on the poly but not anything that will fail.
No, I was in a hurry and didn't fab a heat shield. I needed to get the car back on the road for the show, and thought having the down pipe wrapped would have been good enough for a while. With the poly motor mounts, it was obvious I messes up when I got to the show, and the stainless washer was turning brown, and sinking into the poly.
With the new setup, the downpipe won't be quite as close to the mount, but it will be getting a shield.
With the MS3X setup, I will be running a crank trigger. For this, I picked up a setup that had the trigger wheel mounted to the back of the camper. This setup was designed to use an OEM VR sensor, but seeing as how they are a pain the the butt to setup with MS, I opted to run a hall sensor. So I didn't have to modify the bracket, I made up a adaptor that will bolt into the VR's bracket, but allow me to run the hall sensor. Here is how it looks
The sensor is threaded to M12x1 so it was easy enough to just thread it in, and lock it down. Should work quite well I think. Hopefully something more interesting to post next time.
You won't believe the difference just adding that sensor will do. Yours is going to be night and day going COP. can't wait to see more. 
We have been able to tune around the crappy timing off the dizzy, so I'm really hoping to get it dialed in much better with the new setup. It should be a whole lot of fun.
While waiting to get the bandit towed away to start the real work, I have been receiving packages. I received this earlier this week.
As you can see, there are a few cracks and is scuffed up a little. So I decided to try my had at fixing it. In another thread, I was referred to a thread on Quattroworld for what to use to "solvent weld" the lens back together. It worked, but not as well as I was hoping. That was probably my fault. So I did what I could to fill in the main crack. After that there was a lot of careful razor scraping, then wet sanding with 600, 1200, and 2000 grit paper.
In the second pic you can still see the crack, but I figure unless I grind it out, and fill it in with pigmented epoxy(yes its out there for this job) I'll have to live with it or now.
So I went about polishing it. Started with rubbing compound, then polishing compound, the Meguiar's ultimate compound, then some Ice polish. Came out pretty well, and the crack is much harder to see. Sorry about the pics, best lighting in my apartment was in my bathroom :dur:
And after all that work, here it is on the Bandit! Makes my other lights looks like crap, so I'll have to polish those now too...
Now I need to figure out what to do with the license plate. I have actually thought about trying to use the plate tub from a 90 and mold it into my bumper. It's going to be interesting.
Well, this happened again...
But don't worry, its actually a good thing. With the fuel pump only working for between 10-15 minutes at a time, I didn't want to try and drive it the 45min to my friends house. Here is where its sitting now
In a proper work space for all its upgrades and repairs. We didn't get to work on the car, as we ended up being too busy rearranging the shop to make it work better. Hopefully next weekend I will be back over to start working on her. Pretty much the whole front end has to come back off, and the dash needs to come back out. Should be fun.
Today was spent at my friends garage ripping apart the 80. We removed all the old hacked up megasquirt wiring, the fuel system, vacuum system, front end, timing setup, and dash. Lots of fun!
Here are some of the parts that were removed. More stacked on top of the car, and behind it!
I also got to test fit the new trigger wheel damper, sensor mount bracket, and adapted hall sensor. They fit about as perfectly as I had hoped! No need to modify the timing cover either, Yay!
I'm hoping next weekend to remove all the excess OEM wiring, and install the 2 new MS3X harnesses. Lots of work ahead.
Tail lights lookin good man 
In reply to 2K4Kcsq:
Thanks, the pics make the cracks less visable, but all in all it came out pretty well. I'm still not sure if I'm going to keep it on though, don't really want to modify a bumper right now.
Yesterday I spent large portion of the day at my friend's place working on the 80. I feel like I should have gotten more done, but at least I got something done. I made up the mounting bracket for the LS coils. Came out pretty well. The harder part was making the 1" aluminum angle clear the heater hose, accelerator cable, and brake booster. It mounts to the original coil mounting studs on the firewall, with rubber pads between the firewall and aluminum, then to the radiator with a lift bracket and a small radiator mount.
I then tackled the turbo intake. It is much shorter than it was, and will be using a larger filter. This will change again when I upgrade to the header and holset, but for now it will do.
That's it for now, hopefully soon I'll be able to get all the wiring run, and install all the poly goodness I got from HPR.
I got back over last Sunday for a couple hours. The timing belt is back on, and the crank sensor is set properly now. I Also made the plug that the wiringing harnesses for the MS3X will go thought. It takes the place of the AC lines in the large boot coming out of the firewall. And with a friend's encouragement, I made my own version of the "tuna can" cam sensor. I first milled off the rotor attachment point above the window wheel. Not quite as easy as it sounds.
I then made up an aluminum cap that uses the dizzy cap clips to hold it on. Came out pretty well I think. Should look nicer than an empty dizzy cap in the bay.
Hoping to get over this weekend to work on the suspension portion of this year's work.
Spent part of the day yesterday working on the bandit. Right now the whole car is about 21" off the ground on jack stands. Pretty much right after I got the wheels off, I got a call asking me to go pick my dad up from the air port, because my mom's A4's battery was dead... Go figure. Anyways, after I got back from doing that, was able to drop the front subframe and replace the bushings! These are in much better shape than the 25 year old OEM ones we took out. Havering the bushing press make removal fairly easy.
Before we put the subframe back in, and had better access to it, we decided it was a good time to replace the poly insert for the PS motor mount. Here is how it looked...
As you can see in this pic, I managed to melt it enough of collapse it. We had to pry the top washer off of it
Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to get the rear SF done. We have every nut and bolt soaking in PB blaster. The rear has never been off of the car before, so keep your fingers crossed everything comes apart OK.
I love the distributor mod. milling that shaft was a trick I bet! been running ideas thru my head on what to do. how would you feel about selling me a black nylon version of that cap? I don't have much machine access these days and I really like what you came up with.
In reply to 2K4Kcsq:
Once I found a good way to hold it, it was pretty quick. You could do it will a cut off wheel, but you would have a lot more metal dust to deal with in the sensor.
As for a black plastic version, I'll have to see if I have material for it. If I do I'll whip one up for you.
I could possibly make one on my hobofreight lathe. It's a slow shollow cutting process but possible. Looking good though!
Can you post some pictures, how-to or other information about your home made tubing bead roller? I need to do the same.
Here is the video I watched to make mine. Works very well, but be prepared to have blisters, and sore hands if you have more than maybe 5 pipe ends to do. https://youtu.be/JVDUM2ZxoW0
My much improved MS showed up on Friday. It's a fair bit bigger than the old setup, but there is room where I had it installed.
Not having to have he laptop hooked up to take a log will be very nice!
I spent most of yesterday at my friend's shop getting the rear subframe and diff taken care of. I believe everything that was on the rear of the car was original from 1991! Here is how it looked
I didn't attempt to clean it, as I'm afraid of what I might find. I did install the poly bushings and mounts though. I now have everything HPR offers for me!
There is just a little difference between the new bushing, and the old one in the diff mount!
NO MORE FLOPPY DIFF! YAY!!!
I then went about installing the 044 fuel pump. Things went pretty smoothly, until the 3 tray mounts decided they didn't want to survive. Now I have to order 3 new rubber isolators.
While I have it out, I'm going to run a direct line from the pump to the filter. Even though the filter is only a couple months old, it will replaced too. Hopefully next time I go over I'll have it running again.
Got this pic the other day from a friend of mine. Fuel system has been simplified, and should be a little more responsive.
nice car and nice thread, picked up some helpful tips (solvent weld and crimper bead roller)
In reply to DuctTape&Bondo:
Glad I could help. The car is a long way from being done, but I'll get there Eventually.
Spent some time thinning out the MS3X harness yesterday. Ended up taking out almost all of the unused inputs and outputs. I pretty much know exactly what my system will be in the end, so no need for all the extra wires hanging around. I need to order a depinning tool for the MS harness though. Shouldn't take long to clean that harness up though.
I did however manage to install my modded distributor though. Looks pretty good attached to the engine! Shouldn't be long after I'm back on the road that it matches the rest of the aluminum parts under there!
Awesome!
In reply to Storz:
Thanks! It's taking longer than I would like, but it's getting there.
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