Wanna send one of those 5cyl my way?
In reply to yupididit :
Your not the only one. I've been asked a couple times recently about selling it by itself.
In reply to crankwalk (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks, I can't take credit for the exhaust welding. He does do quite nice work though.
The tires took an extra day to get here, but they did show up. Accelera PHI-R 215/45/16. Fairly soft compound. We shall see how well they hold up.
I took the borbet's off the CQ and cleaned them up.
Got the tires mounted up today and on the car. Quick trip around the block to settle the suspension. I like the look of the semi dished 5 spoke wheels more than the 6 spoke cab wheels
One of the discussions Lil Stampie and I have had is wheels. I'd prefer 15's just for the tire selection. Is there a more common junkyard donor I should look for in my wanderings?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Well we run a 4x108mm lug pattern. All Audi B4 90's and Cabriolets will have 15" wheels because of the g60 brakes. The Ford focus also runs the same lug pattern as well as some of the older Saabs. I'm running a et35 offset on this set which is about perfect
The 16" tire size for us is supposed to be a 205/45 which will have more stretch on the side wall than I like. You can actually find those pretty easily.
So yesterday I took this for a drive. I stopped and filled the tank, then hit the highway. Shortly after I hit the highway, I had a sync loss. Within the next mile, I had 2 more! So I turned around and came home.
I'm running 60-2 wheel with a cherry hall sensor for the crank sensor, and the OEM single window distributor with hall sensor for the cam sensor.
I've normally had one sync loss per drive for pretty much the entire time I've had this on the road. I'm wondering if I possibly have something else going on here. Unfortunately, both of my laptops have crapped out, so I can't even plug in right now to see if the SD logger is showing me anything.
I found an 85 Audi 5000s, for cheap. Do you know what engine that's supposed to be? I can't find a def answer.
In reply to yupididit :
It should be a 2.2l non turbo. There is the occasional "S" with a turbo engine though. I would ask for pics of the engine.
In reply to yupididit :
When looking at the 5000 model, look for "CS". Those will have the turbo engine.
So it has been quite some time without a post. Car has been running well right up to last week. I drive 25 min to and from work. The one morning I had almost 15 sync losses on the way home. After getting it home, I decided to find a new hall sensor for the distributor. That's a little easier said than done. They are out there, but expensive.
Randomly, a new compley distributor popped up from MTC. I asked a couple people about the brand, and was told they were normally pretty good. After finding one on Amazon for $23 shipped, I took the gamble. It's listed to fit a number of 10v Audi's so I was concerned it would be a 5 window wheel. My concerns were valid, and now I need to try and swap shafts from my original MC2 distributor. Hopefully that will happen this weekend and I can start driving the car again
Well as ELaw stated on MotorGeek, I pulled the plug from the dizzy after it was running, and it stayed running. My MS3X is setup to use the cam sensor only on start up.
So this happened.
Had to pull the whole front end and intercooler to get to the crank damper. I've always thought that maybe this trigger wheels "missing teeth" were too tall. They are just shallower than the OD of the trigger wheel.
Not a great pic but you get the idea
I also found one of the alt bracket bolts was completly backed out and just chilling in the bracket. Yes, I know, I need to get PS hoses, that's the leak you see on everything..
There is also a small amount of oil in the intercooler plumbing. Enough that I felt the need to wipe the small pool out of the coupler when I took off the intercooler. Looks like the seals on the turbo may be going bad. Good think I have the hybrid to put on it haha.
My uncle killed my dremel, so I spent some time figuring out what happened, and now I'm tired. I got the dremel working again, and waiting on a reply about cutting that area down some. Now it's time for bed.
Not much to report on the bandit unfortunately. I haven't done much with it. I need to order a new crank sensor, and a male 3 pin JPT connector.
On a different note though, I finally got a Tig welder!
AHP AlphaTig 201XD. They brought the price down to $640, so I decided now was the time to buy. It comes with a #17 and #9 rotaflex torch, but I'm not so sure I like it. I may change it out for a standard #9 flex head torch.
There were some reports of these showing up DOA, so I wanted to get it tested as soon as it showed up. I'm going to have to "relearn" how to use this welder on AC. I'm used to the old style transformer welders I use at work. All in all, not bad for a cold piece, and learning how to set it up I think.
Hopefully this means I'll be able to make some more interesting things here at home for the bandit!
The crank sensor is to far away from the trigger wheel. Should be somewhere in the 30thousands range if I recall correctly.
In reply to brad131a4 (Forum Supporter) :
According to Cherry/ZF the sensor gap should be 1.5mm on this sensor. In the pic of the tripper wheels, the sensor is at the very top.
What RPM range is the sync loss happening?
When I switched our 2.slow motor to Speeduino, I had occasional high RPM sync loss because the VR signal conditioner input was getting too much voltage. A 4.7K 5 watt resistor across the VR sensor inputs fixed it.
In reply to Honsch :
The sync loss happens anywhere across the RPM range. I've had it happen at idle, all the way up to around 5k. I'm running a cherry/zf GS100502 hall sensor for my crank sensor. It's threaded into a custom adaptor to fit in the bracket designed for the VR sensor.
So yesterday I finally got around to messing with this some yesterday. Needed to take the ebrake off, as it has been technically on for more than a year. Popped the DS rear wheel off to find this.
Need to get some new ones, as the PS looks really rough as well.
I also got around to testing my theory about the sync loss issue. I unmounted MS from the blower box, straighted out the wiring, and reseated the connectors. It seems to have worked. Has the car running for more than an hour, with about 30 min of driving. I didn't notice any sync loss at all! Very excited!
I think I want to build a bracket, and mount it like this. Keep it off the floor, and the wiring as straight as possible.
Will try to get this done this week. Carlisle is quickly approaching. Oh, I also have a crack in my coolant reservoir, go figure. I have something special in the works for that though.
Drove the car to work tonight. About 30 min of non stop driving, and not a single sync loss. Feeling much more comfortable driving her again.
I have a small crack in my coolant reservoir next to the little nipple coming in from the radiator. It big enough that it dripps coolant out, so I decided to try to clean one of my old tanks up, as they are oem, not this aftermarket crap. I used a dishwasher pack, rice, and rock salt as outlined in a couple you tube vids. Worked pretty well, but not well enough for me. Not exactly sure what I'm going to try next. Not looking to make it white again, I just want all the crap out of it. Any tips?
de80q said:Drove the car to work tonight. About 30 min of non stop driving, and not a single sync loss. Feeling much more comfortable driving her again.
I have a small crack in my coolant reservoir next to the little nipple coming in from the radiator. It big enough that it dripps coolant out, so I decided to try to clean one of my old tanks up, as they are oem, not this aftermarket crap. I used a dishwasher pack, rice, and rock salt as outlined in a couple you tube vids. Worked pretty well, but not well enough for me. Not exactly sure what I'm going to try next. Not looking to make it white again, I just want all the crap out of it. Any tips?
That's awesome. Especially that just finagling with the wiring fixed it! I really want to fix the wiring in the one I've been working on. The 034 ecm is mounted through the glovebox and you can't even use it. I thought about just ditching the glovebox and making a small bracket to show off the box/relays.
I had the same coolant-reservoir-that-looked-like-it-was-a-titanic-artifact issue. New owner just bought another one. I was going to try cleaning it but the sensor in the body just spun and started leaking. I had wanted to try the vinegar route.
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